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Manual trans output case repair?


redfogo

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Long story short I ordered an trans it's here and it's broken.... Hard to get an 83 trans as it is... Does anyone know of a way to repair the output shaft? Here is the damage not sure what to do to really fix it. Any ideas?

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Edited by redfogo
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Looks like the rear seal still has seat area.  The part that broke is really just dust shield material.  You could probably fabricate a plastic piece that presses over, from a piece of pipe.  Or just run it as-is.

 

You said shaft in the text but I think that you meant case like in the title.

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Never mind, I just went and looked at one and your rear seal seat is broken.  

 

The welder guys probably know for sure but welding might damage the slip yoke bushing area or warp things.  Just brainstorming, you could probably fabricate a ring around the remaining case, maybe a machined aluminum ring that presses on, then fill fill the inside with JB weld to do the sealing.  You could even install the seal and fill the gap.

 

Or cut the remainder off at the base of the break, fabricate an aluminum ring with a seal seat, and press it on.  Luckily you still have a machined surface to attach to (marked it in red on your picture).  I could see a two step ring, one to the housing outer diameter and one to the seal diameter.  Heat it, press it on, and your seal seat is back.  No welding.  It could be cut on a lathe.  It would add a little bulk but be barely noticeable.

 

 

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Yeah I have been looking at other possible way to fix this the only problem I see is getting it so the seal fits correctly and will not leak. I Think cutting out an aluminum ring chunk and JB welding might be the best bet. Might just need to put on some RTV around that rear of the seal so it doesn't leak out after the seal is in.

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A variation on NewZeds idea.

 

Have a sleeve machined that has the ID of the OD of the transmission and a wall thickness of .125" or so. Preferably interference fit. Heat the sleeve and slip over rear of transmission. Pop new seal into transmission. Pack the cavity between the seal and the new ring with JB Weld putty.

Not sure if your drive shaft yoke has a dust collar or not but that could affect things.

 

 

Derek

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I feel your pain. I dropped my tranny and badly bent the same area that yours broke. I called a Datsun Performance shop and purchased a used tailshaft housing...$75.00. It's probably your easiest option if you're comfortable pulling the tranny apart. I damn near cried when I dropped it.

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A variation on NewZeds idea.

 

Actually, that's what I was trying to say as my first thought.  Most people equate JB Weld with crude though, so I spent more brain time and went with two machined surfaces as option #2.  More expensive, but all metal when it's done.

 

Disassembly, welding, machining, and reassembly seems like a lot of work for what it essentially just an oil seal holder.  Not much load to deal with, unless it gets dropped again.

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I feel your pain. I dropped my tranny and badly bent the same area that yours broke. I called a Datsun Performance shop and purchased a used tailshaft housing...$75.00. It's probably your easiest option if you're comfortable pulling the tranny apart. I damn near cried when I dropped it.

Do you know what shop you got it from I emailed everyone see if I ever get a reply.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is there  a register to hold the seal in at all? It appears there is....

Grind back from the break around 5-10 mm a tapered feathered edge, leave a step where the break occurs. It helps to do this with like a 36 grit disc.

Clean everything scrupulously.

Install the seal with a dusting of PAM cooking oil on it.

Build up the area around the break and seal with DEVCON ALUMINUM PUTTY. It's a structural epoxy that you can machine, tap, and work just like metal once cured. Yeah, you could use JB Weld, but I have a tub of this stuff laying around and have used it for years as it doesn't run on vertical surfaces.

 

If you have a dust cap, then after it's cured, file it and use a long piece of sandpaper to make it nice and round again.

 

Pull out your seal, clean it off with some brake cleaner to remove the oil....

 

Clean out the new cavity you made, and put in some sealant like Loctite RC608 Cylindrical Parts Locker, or Permatex Avation High-Tack, either in the recess or on the seal OD and reinstall.

 

Shouldn't take long at all and no disassembly required.

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