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HybridZ

Won't go into gear while running


endofzworld

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Okay so today I replaced my brake booster and stupidly I disassembled the clutch pedal before I realised it was the wrong one. So I put it back together and finished the brake booster. Went to go for a test drive and it won't go inow to gear. Clutch ras

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You might have ruined the seal in the MC when you let the piston come all the way back when you disconnected the pedal, or sucked some air.  Or you put it back together incorrectly.  If you're sure the mechanicals are right the best you can do is to bleed the system and hope.  There's a chapter called Clutch (CL) in the FSM.

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Since you took the clutch pedal apart, check adjustment of the rod that connects to the clutch pedal.

 

Also, prevent future mistakes by down loading the Factory Service Manual  (FSM) for your Z. PDF copies are available elsewhere in HybridZ.

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You're not giving many details.  Disassembled the clutch pedal, won't go in to gear, pedal doesn't feel right, adjust linkage every which way.  It's not clear if the end of the clutch fork moves even a millimeter.  See if the end of the clutch fork moves when you press the pedal.  Or remove the line from the MC and see if you can generate pressure there.  The cylinders are known to corrode at the ends over time.  If the seal dragged over it it might be toast.

 

The system is simple.  The pedal and linkage move a piston, fluid moves through a tube, another piston moves, a rod moves, the end of the clutch fork moves.  You need to determine which part isn't doing its job.

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maybe an inch or so. Everything SEEMS to be working as it should

You need to move on from the "maybes" and "seems" and take some measurements.

 

I had a slave cylinder that leaked in the middle of its stroke when it got hot.  It seemed right, and it held pressure.  Just didn't move far enough.  Took me a while to figure it out.  And it was a new cylinder.  But it was dirty inside.

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 Seals are good 

The seals are only good if they create pressure.  Should have checked for pressure before removing.  Sorry, but it's measuring you need to do, not more looking.  

 

The problem with just replacing is that you'll still need to make sure it's all assembled correctly.  But, you're in the might-as-well zone now.  Might as well replace since they go bad eventually and you have it apart.  Odds are decent it will work right when you put it all back together.

 

Ttake the new parts apart and make sure they're not contaminated with honing grit before installing.

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I worked for Nissan Parts Dealerships fpr 18 years. The parts replacement of Clutch Master Cylinders was about 10 to 1 over clutch slave cylinders. The M/Cylinders are made of aluminum and get pitting of the bore from water accumulation in the Hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave cylinders were cast iron and they did not pit so easily. Unless they are physically leaking fluid outside, the Slave Cylinders are " usually "  good. The Master Cylinders nearly always fail first, and your symptoms are " Text Book " failure of M/Cyl by internal bypassing.

 

The M/Cylinders have a Secondary seal ( the one on the left or push-rod end ) that just keeps f;fluid from leaking out of the bore. That is why you can have a failed M/Cyl but show no evidence of external fluid leakage. The Slave cylinder has only one seal, when it goes you will always see external leakage ( may be hidden under dust boot )

 

Also, your seal shown in the picture do not look good to me. The Primary seal ( right side ) lip is worn and rounded ( Edges should be sharp and pliable ) . When that happens they bypass fluid internally and you do not get the full stroke travel from the slave cylinder. The loss of a few millimeters of stroke can make all the difference.

 

Replace the Clutch Master cylinder ( don't even bother trying to rebuild it ). Install fresh fluid and bleed properly. 95% of the time that will fix the issue. If it still doesn't work after replacing the M/Cyl, then replace the Slave Cylinder .

 

Note: Replace the Slave cylinder as well as the M/CYL IF you find fluid under the protective boot of the Salve cylinder..

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 I just like seeing how and why things fail before I just buy something new.

See if you can get a decent picture of the inside of the cylinder.  That's where the corrosion/crud that damages the seal or gets stuck under its edges lives.

Edited by NewZed
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Ok update. I installed new mc and slave cylinders but I had to adjust rod for the mc aaaaall the way out to get any pressure. If I make it any shorter I have no pressure. And if I put the bump stop on the clutch wont engage fully. So now I have a clutch pedal that sticks out too far

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