Conedodger Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I calculate my new Rebello engines injector needs at 29.4# or 309cc. What have you guys used or can you suggest a reference. I'm just looking for options and opinions on what works. I have one suggestion from one of our Canadian members and I may go that direction but I always like to compare and contrast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 (edited) Try looking into late 80's Toyota Supras and Cressidas, N/A fuel injectors. I remember them being in the low 300cc range.. Not sure what fuel management system your planning on using. Maybe let us know what system your going to be using.. Ok just checked a supra site. The late 87-89 Supra Cressida, Light Green Injectors are High Impedance and are 315cc Injectors. They are top feed injectors so you will need a 10mm O-ring fuel rail.. Get the N/a Injector wire connectors also.. Edited May 4, 2017 by dexter72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conedodger Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Thanks MS3X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Get some high impedance Boschs off of any domestic or get some new ones. I ordered new Boschs for about 39$ each or something around that cost . I got 270cc I believe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Fuel Injector man has reman Supra injectors for $150 a set ( 6 ). Not the cheapest, but you get what you pay for. These will fit the stock 280Z/ZX intake manifold and use 11mm top O-rings ( Pallnet Rail ). 310cc http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactured-Denso-Fuel-Injector-set-6-1986-1988-Toyota-Supra-3-0L-Non-Turbo-/291075192985?hash=item43c56ef899:g:OC4AAOSwv0tU9jcD&vxp=mtr Or did I suggest these before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conedodger Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 I don't think so. I'm just putting together choices. You're the second to suggest this. As a bonus, a good friend is a Toyota parts manager! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 I didn't want to mess with resistors - pulse width , ect... Just hook up injectors and done. Change out pintles so you can use 14mm and you can pick from countless domestics for cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 (edited) You still have to have the correct Dead Time for either Low-z or High-z injectors. Having the correct Dead Time is the most important of all. Dropping resistors with Low-z injectors is actually a bit easier than getting rid of the dropping resistors. You don't have to mess with the PWM Current Limiting settings. High -Z injectors eliminate that step of course, but so does keeping the dropping resistors with Low- z injectors. My Haltech has automatic current limitation calculation built in. You ohm test the resistors and select the corresponding range. It does all the rest. Edited May 5, 2017 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conedodger Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 On a slight High jack of my own thread, will MS3X fire the stock cold start injector? And yes, I realize that's not the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conedodger Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Whoops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conedodger Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 So apparently, if I use the Supra injectors, they are high Z and don't require resistors. One of you says 10mm and the other 11mm rail though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) No supras are low and need resistors/or pwm current limiting plus the connectors are specific to toyota. Madkaw is right on the ball suggesting to go high. 1 no need for resistors 2 play with pwm current limiting 3 more available and better pricing. Edited May 10, 2017 by softopz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 No supras are low and need resistors/or pwm current limiting plus the connectors are specific to toyota. Madkaw is right on the ball suggesting to go high. 1 no need for resistors 2 play with pwm current limiting 3 more available and better pricing. Damn... you're right about the connectors. I've had the Pallnet rail and Supra injectors sitting here for months. Even mocked them up. Didn't think to test fit the connectors though. The Supra ones are not standard EV1. SOB!! Wish Injectorman had warned me about that. Off to find Toyota Supra connectors. Oh they are 11 mm O-rings. Those I did test fit. Another local Z member club member is using the Supra 310cc injectors but he didn't mention the changed connectors. Oh well...not a biggy for me. I can pick up the proper Nippon Denso injector terminals from Injector-Rehab. http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Nippon-Denso-Type-Connector.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Hey - when people go low- I go high!! Choices are endless and cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 I have the 1987 Toyota Supra NA 295 to- 310cc ( specs seem to vary ) Low-Z injectors. Injectorman says the 23250-70040's ( 7M-GR Yellow ) are 310cc Just an FYI. Borrowed this from a Toyota Supra site: The JZ Injectors and M series Injectors are not interchangable. The NA's would be, but they are far under even Mk3 NA's so there's not a point to for us Mk3 guys.JZ's (minus the N/A) are all Side Feed, while M's are all top feed.7M-GE (Mk3 NA - 1986.5 - 1992): 86-88 - Top Feed, Low Impedance (Yellow), 2.7ohm, 295cc, Type: Dual Ball Valve89-92 - Top Feed, High Impedance (Light-Green), 13.8ohm, 315cc, Type: Dual Ball Valve7M-GTE (Mk3 T - 1987 - 1992): 87-88 - Top Feed, Low Impedance (Black), 2.9ohm, 430cc, Type: Dual Ball Valve89-92 - Top Feed, Low Impedance (Black), 2.9ohm, 430cc, Type: Dual Ball Valve1JZ:## - ## - Top Feed, High Impedance (Yellow), 13.8 Ohm, 380cc2JZ-GE (Mk4 N/A, IS300): Top Feed, High Impedance (Green), 13.8 Ohm, 315cc2JZ-GTE (Mk4 TT - 1993-1998):JDM - Side Feed, High Impedance (Grey) , 14.2 Ohm, 430ccUSDM - Side Feed, Low Impedance (Purple) 2.3 Ohm, 520cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) On a slight High jack of my own thread, will MS3X fire the stock cold start injector? And yes, I realize that's not the original. Question is... why would you want to use the factory cold start valve? All start and warm up enrichment's are handled by MegaSquirt through the regular port injectors. Course you could put a NOZ nozzle in there... Edited May 10, 2017 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Put your IAT in that hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Don't overlook that large portions of Megasquirt are really for electronics engineer-nerd types, not car guys. PWM and low Z, and flyback, and resistors, and soldering...high impedance simplifies a lot. Search down to "flyback" and nerd-out - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Put your IAT in that hole What about heat soak from the Intake manifold? Warned from several sources not to do that. ( HP Academy, Guild of EFI Tuners ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Don't overlook that large portions of Megasquirt are really for electronics engineer-nerd types, not car guys. PWM and low Z, and flyback, and resistors, and soldering...high impedance simplifies a lot. Search down to "flyback" and nerd-out - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb Yeah... and that particular link is old info and misleading. Newer 3.0 boards come with PWM current limiting. With older 3.0 boards was an Option. And 2.2 boards had to have the Flyback module be added on. It's really like a DIY electronics science project. With remote tuning, I've found you are never really sure what's on the other end. The build it yourself boards vary greatly in build quality. It's all up to the skill set of the builder. All it takes is one cold solder joint, or one resistor in the wrong spot and you are banging your head against the wall. . Electronics soldering is totally different from Automotive soldering. A lot of people do not understand that. Electronics soldering has to be 100% perfect. Most people can't even assemble Ikea furniture properly.... Better to pay a little extra and get the 3.57 pre-assembled boards. At least they have some rudimentary testing and you have a fighting chance that it is assembled correctly. At one time I was thinking of buying an MS-2 or MS-3 ECU ( pre-assembled ) but now I wouldn't touch them with a 10 foot pole.... just my .02c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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