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Arttu's 240Z Never Ready


TUME

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Did you use the factory control arm mounting point on the front crossmember?  Do you have any pictures of the front control arm when the car is on the ground?

No, it´s been raised about 45mm, due the roll center. Front roll center will be ~60mm above ground. Here is pic where you can see mounting points and control arm position.

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What type of welding process did you use for all the fab work?

All sheet metal welds are with MIG with Co2. Or is it MAG then....?  Square tubes are welded together with arc stick, (is this right phrase?)  Because they are quite thick wall and cromesteel.

 

Control arms are welded with TIG.

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Made some kind of strut-bar with rod ends. With opposite threads, bar can adjust just by turning it.

 

Joe had ruined firewall and that strengthening plate. So I made a new one out of aluminium.

 

Brackets for pedal-box and steering column is added too.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey TUME, I'm wondering why you chose to modify the front knuckles rather than going with the full S13 setup, which includes the fore tension rods and the aft steering rack? The reason I ask is because I am trying to decide which direction I should go with it.

 

Also, when using S13 front lower control arms, what other modifications were necessary besides relocating the bolt hole in the S30 crossmember?

 

I like your creativity with your project. I'm looking forward to future updates.

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Main reason was oil pan. SR-engines is very difficult modify to rear-sump. Also it was easier to build tension rod mounts like that, rather to build them totally different place. 

 

In fact, those are not S13 flca´s, they are made by my own thoughts to fit this setup. In fact I don´t even know how these compare to S13´s arms. They are close, I think. If I don´t remember totally wrong these are ~340mm long, bolt to bolt. And of course, adjustable.

 

Crossmember bolt hole is moved only because front geometry, ie. roll center height.

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About that control arm, as you can quess, I remembered wrong. Lenght is 370mm, bolt to bolt.  Or bolt to ball joint, for precisely.

 

I´ve been lately working with glass-fiber dash. Really a pain in the ass, to build mounts to that. Maybe it´s now decent, with 7 bolts and maybe some screws will added too...

 

This dash is just a cover, so you must build everything from nothing, and roll cage is not helping. Good thing is lightness, I think it weights about 2 kilos when empty.

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  • 1 month later...

Working with dash continues. Made a glove-box out of aluminium sheet, original door and lock. Takes several hours.... Also original vents fits fine on that new dash. Had to cut them because again roll cage tube comes away.

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  • 8 months later...

Let´s get this up for a long time. Lately I´v been working with the engine.

Made oil grooves to main bearing saddles, to use Gti-R-version bearings. Also conrod bearing are from Gti-R, because they are wider than rwd-bearings.

Honed cylinders and smoothed deck, thats about it.

Pistons got ceramic heat barrier on top and solid lubrication on skirts.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the car sandblasted, underneath, engine bay and inside. I think i gonna clean rest of the body with sandpaper. Don't need any strecthed bodywork. Funny how much little bit of paint change looks. Sprayed with polyurethane paint, witch should be decent primer.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That's the plan. I've sprayed underbody also couple a days ago. There will added some stoneguard and other layer of paint on some day. Propably black, despite that light color looks quite nice too....

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Underbody is now done. I sprayed stoneguard in wheelwells and here and there uder the floor. Top of that, black urethane paint.

Also painted subframe and front beam. Grey, for a some color under the car... :lol:   Bolted them in too, with polyurethane bushes of course.

Next I must fabricate some little parts in suspension and get this thing on wheels.

After that, some bodywork. Rest of the body ready for paint.

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