How do I convert the half shafts to CV joints, Brake and tire ??

[rabrooks]

SO I want to modernize my project a little as I go. I want to use CV joint half shafts. Whats the best way to go about making the conversion. I have heard about getting other diffs like out of an Infinity and using the half shafts that come with those diffs. Any help is appreciated. My car is a 75 and I believe it has the R200 diff with a 3.54 ratio.

Any thoughts on modernizing other parts is appreciated as well. The car is being built as a Track Day car.

 

I want to upgrade the brakes as well. I want to install as big and wide wheels as is reasonable the then flare the panels to cover teh tires. What sizes seem to provide the best look and performance.

 

Thanks

Roger

Edited May 25, 2018 by rabrooks

[NewZed]

You need a conversion flange or adapter on the wheel side to bolt the CV shaft to.  The splined end will slide and clip in to your R200 diff, if you use a Datsun CV shaft.

 

One choice you need to make is about the CV shaft.  It's pretty well documented that the 300ZX CLSD shafts are too long.  So if you choose that option you need to buy CV shafts also.  Or you can try to find 280ZXT shafts, which seem to fit with no modifications.  Or you can get Porsche 930 style CV shafts, but that requires a different conversion axle or adapter.

 

In the end, after all of the money and time, you won't have much better strength or performance (smoothness) than the stock u-joint shafts.  But many people do it.

 

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

 

https://zcardepot.com/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html

 

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

 

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun

 

 

[mtnickel]

23 hours ago, NewZed said:

You need a conversion flange or adapter on the wheel side to bolt the CV shaft to.  The splined end will slide and clip in to your R200 diff, if you use a Datsun CV shaft.

 

One choice you need to make is about the CV shaft.  It's pretty well documented that the 300ZX CLSD shafts are too long.  So if you choose that option you need to buy CV shafts also.  Or you can try to find 280ZXT shafts, which seem to fit with no modifications.  Or you can get Porsche 930 style CV shafts, but that requires a different conversion axle or adapter.

 

In the end, after all of the money and time, you won't have much better strength or performance (smoothness) than the stock u-joint shafts.  But many people do it.

 

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

 

https://zcardepot.com/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html

 

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

 

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun

 

 

 

I make weld on adapters now that basically do not add any width to where the stock square companion flange sits. You even need to lightly grind the stub axle so it's flush with the companion flange. I ran both sides through their entire suspension travel. Contrary to popular belief, the axle is tightest and most likely to bind at full droop. Even with my adapters, both sides need the CV cages flipped to be safe. The adapters also work with the Rock auto reman z31 turbo axles, though they are not nearly as strong as the OE nissan ones. They in turn use the 280zx tripod style CV and there is no cage to be flipped. Luckily they are ever so slightly shorter and still work with the adapters.

I'll try and get a for sale post or thread up one of these days. Can find me on DPAN.

 

Mark

[rabrooks]

On 5/26/2018 at 1:21 AM, mtnickel said:

 

I make weld on adapters now that basically do not add any width to where the stock square companion flange sits. You even need to lightly grind the stub axle so it's flush with the companion flange. I ran both sides through their entire suspension travel. Contrary to popular belief, the axle is tightest and most likely to bind at full droop. Even with my adapters, both sides need the CV cages flipped to be safe. The adapters also work with the Rock auto reman z31 turbo axles, though they are not nearly as strong as the OE nissan ones. They in turn use the 280zx tripod style CV and there is no cage to be flipped. Luckily they are ever so slightly shorter and still work with the adapters.

I'll try and get a for sale post or thread up one of these days. Can find me on DPAN.

 

Mark

I expect this is the route I will go. I'll use the Z31 axles and your flange adapter. The the diff end pretty much takes care of itself. and the outer end bolts to the adapter flange? Are you saying the 930 axles are the correct length or does the adapter make up some difference. I thought the cv setup might be lighter and more mechanically efficient.That's mostly what I was interested in.

[Cable]

On 5/25/2018 at 10:21 PM, mtnickel said:

 

I make weld on adapters now that basically do not add any width to where the stock square companion flange sits. You even need to lightly grind the stub axle so it's flush with the companion flange. I ran both sides through their entire suspension travel. Contrary to popular belief, the axle is tightest and most likely to bind at full droop. Even with my adapters, both sides need the CV cages flipped to be safe. The adapters also work with the Rock auto reman z31 turbo axles, though they are not nearly as strong as the OE nissan ones. They in turn use the 280zx tripod style CV and there is no cage to be flipped. Luckily they are ever so slightly shorter and still work with the adapters.

I'll try and get a for sale post or thread up one of these days. Can find me on DPAN.

 

Mark

 

I like this option..... how much for a pair?

[primaz]

From others on the forum, I found these, which to me look to be one of the best CV kits to also consider

 

http://www.zcarblog.com/tag/cv-axles

 

For big wheels/tires you really need to measure your car as there are so many types of flares, suspensions mods, etc. that there is no one perfect offset to me, so why not just spend $50 and measure your car and get the perfect offset to avoid spacers, etc.  Do that after you install your flares if you want flares and after you finish the suspension.  FYI, you can stuff a 245 easily on all four corners on a stock body so going with flares with the right offset, you can run much larger sizes.

 

http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334

 

Edited February 5, 2019 by primaz

[Cable]

6 minutes ago, primaz said:

From others on the forum, I found these, which to me look to be one of the best CV kits to also consider

 

http://www.zcarblog.com/tag/cv-axles

 

 

 

You just love trying to spend other's money. 

 

NOT spending $1600 on a CV setup when a weld on adapters and brand new CV's cost less than $400. Besides, the long term plans for my car include a narrowed Dana 60 and a full backhalf tub and cage.

[mtnickel]

On 5/29/2018 at 3:40 PM, rabrooks said:

I expect this is the route I will go. I'll use the Z31 axles and your flange adapter. The the diff end pretty much takes care of itself. and the outer end bolts to the adapter flange? Are you saying the 930 axles are the correct length or does the adapter make up some difference. I thought the cv setup might be lighter and more mechanically efficient.That's mostly what I was interested in.

930 is a Porsche style CV. You don’t use 930 axles. You can use 930 CVs (just the joints) with a custom shaft (which is available due to all the vw dune buggy guys using this type of thing), and adapters at both the diff side and Hub side.  

CV setup may not be lighter, but probably more efficient, less vibration, and more durable. Also, can replace the CV with off the shelf part If need be.

[mtnickel]

21 hours ago, Cable said:

 

I like this option..... how much for a pair?

$225 shipped plus PayPal fees. But it now includes a jig to aid with welding. You must ship the jig back or to the next user. 

[Cable]

7 minutes ago, mtnickel said:

$225 shipped plus PayPal fees. But it now includes a jig to aid with welding. You must ship the jig back or to the next user. 

 

Excellent. I will hit you up later this week.

 

How do these would with the Rockauto Turbo CV Z31 that are running the tripod setup vs the OEM cage? I thought I read you can't shorten the tripod style. I have a 280z btw.

 

Rockauto show that one shaft at 20 5/8" and the other at 19 27/32". I wonder if it would be better to get two of the shorter shafts.

Edited February 5, 2019 by Cable

[mtnickel]

1 minute ago, Cable said:

 

Excellent. I will hit you up later this week.

 

How do these would with the Rockauto Turbo CV Z31 that are running the tripod setup vs the OEM cage? I thought I read you can't shorten the tripod style. I have a 280z btw.

 

The show one shaft at 20 5/8" and the other at 19 27/32".

Not sure what pic you looking at. The oem z31t can only be shortened like an 1/8”, but that little bit is appreciated and useful. 

The rockauto can’t be shortened, but already happen to be ever so slightly shorter and do fit with these adapters without binding. They however are probably only strong enough for 300hp or so;maybe more, maybe less, depending drivetrain and tire traction and abuse. 

Maybe in the pic I had a passenger side of one and a driver side of the other.

[Cable]

1 minute ago, mtnickel said:

Not sure what pic you looking at. The oem z31t can only be shortened like an 1/8”, but that little bit is appreciated and useful. 

The rockauto can’t be shortened, but already happen to be ever so slightly shorter and do fit with these adapters without binding. They however are probably only strong enough for 300hp or so;maybe more, maybe less, depending drivetrain and tire traction and abuse. 

Maybe in the pic I had a passenger side of one and a driver side of the other.

 

I meant what Rockauto shows....

 

If the Rockauto pieces are only good for 300, that ain't gonna cut it. The 6.0 LS turbo setup I am tossing in the car has already made 690 rwhp at 14 psi in my K5. Eventually I am going with a backhalf with a narrowed Dana 60. Might need to run way less boost....lol.

[mtnickel]

They’re probably as strong as like stock 240sx axles. 

Youre best off looking for used z31t axles. They are much beefier and will hold the power. 

[Cable]

20 minutes ago, mtnickel said:

They’re probably as strong as like stock 240sx axles. 

Youre best off looking for used z31t axles. They are much beefier and will hold the power. 

 

I will hold out looking for a set of OEM Z31T shafts as long as possible. Worse case, the Rockauto versions are cheap enough to live with regular street tires for a bit.

[wheee!]

In the meantime, you can rebuild the original stock half-shafts. They really aren't that bad...!

 

S30 Half-Shaft Rebuild

[daffleck]

I have a 76 with the same setup. R200 with 3.54 ratio. Silvermine motors makes the adapter for 180 bucks. They also have a complete kit with axles. The CV axles I purchased was from rock auto. 84-89 Nissan 300zx turbo, Z31. Work great. Just tig weld the adapter to the companion flange. I paid a hotrod shop to do the perfect welds and I still have about 400 bucks into that part of the project. Good luck to what ever you decide. 

[mtnickel]

2 hours ago, daffleck said:

I have a 76 with the same setup. R200 with 3.54 ratio. Silvermine motors makes the adapter for 180 bucks. They also have a complete kit with axles. The CV axles I purchased was from rock auto. 84-89 Nissan 300zx turbo, Z31. Work great. Just tig weld the adapter to the companion flange. I paid a hotrod shop to do the perfect welds and I still have about 400 bucks into that part of the project. Good luck to what ever you decide. 

Just make sure the shop that welds yours Centers the square flange in the adapter. The stock square flange isn’t concentric and if they just throw it in the adapter and weld you’ll be SOL. It make have lots of runout and vibrate. 

We designed a jig to locate the adapter ring to the stock flange for welding. It also clamps it flat so the part doesn’t warp while welding.

 

Edited March 2, 2019 by mtnickel

[Stew01]

I just finished this process in my 75 280z 2+2 with v8 conversation. The least expensive and easiest way I found was to purchase 1984 to 89 turbo cv axles from rockauto, take them apart and have a machine shop shorten them on the differential side approximately .625, cut a new snap ring Grove then put them back together. On the hub side I bought adaptors and welded to the existing hub flange. You can buy replacement flanges that adapt to the 300zxt axles. Shortening the axles stops binding if you have lowered your car. Good luck!

[mainboyd]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but is just flipping the CV cages good enough to prevent binding or can it still bind?

 

Would machining a new snap ring groove closer to the center help with preventing it to bind at all?

[mainboyd]

Never mind. Found this and it helped. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128943-z31t-axle-swap-can-fit/