Twisted46 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hi All, So this past weekend I got the SBC ready to go and in the engine bay. We had a lot of trouble getting the motor back far enough and still today I am fighting to get the drivers side mount bolt in. I was able to get the passenger started but the whole motor and trans seems to be shifted and the drivers side refuses to budge back but I can't find anything blocking it. Has anyone run in to this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-Tech Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 What year car ? You cant tell what its held up on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisted46 Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Its a 74' 260z, I will try and get some better pictures tomorrow. I have gone around the entire firewall area and can't find any contact points. I am keeping the motor as low and possible when sliding it back but I am at a point where the whole car wants to rock. I am also keeping the motor as flat as I can to keep the distributor off the wall. headers aren't hitting on anything either. Also should have included that I am using a WC T5 and it seems to have plenty of space under the car but the shifter mount is considerably offset to the driver side, to the point that my PRO 5.0 would not clear the shifter hole. I am considering starting over but I cringe at the though lol. TLDR don't do this alone kids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisted46 Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Okay and just like that I think I found the Issue. I have an early 260z and a WC T5. The JTR book mentions that later cars with a T5 will not need the Transmission mount points on the car cut off. Well I can see that the tail housing is hitting the passenger side mount and that is keeping the motor from rotating like it needs to. I will set to work tomorrow and report back with my results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 The T5 is rotated 15 degrees towards the driver's side. Requires removing a small amount of sheet metal on the drivers side of the shifter hole. I also shortened to shifter. Once all of the trim is in place you don't notice the 15 degree tilt to the left. I used the MSA engine-trans swap kit so there may be some differences in shifter location with the JTR kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisted46 Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 Okay I got the motor and transmission bolted in, I just needed to get the passenger side transmission mount cut out which was no problem. I then figured out that the motor mount threads were all junked up (BRAND NEW!) so i had to take them off and tap them back out. Then wouldn't you know i had the motor bolted in in about 30 minutes. I cannot stress enough how important it is to check every small and insignificant before installing the motor to make life easier. I learned the hard way by wasting hours trying to get the mount bolts in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 On 10/7/2018 at 7:31 AM, Twisted46 said: Okay I got the motor and transmission bolted in, I just needed to get the passenger side transmission mount cut out which was no problem. I then figured out that the motor mount threads were all junked up (BRAND NEW!) so i had to take them off and tap them back out. Then wouldn't you know i had the motor bolted in in about 30 minutes. I cannot stress enough how important it is to check every small and insignificant before installing the motor to make life easier. I learned the hard way by wasting hours trying to get the mount bolts in. For sure. That is a good lesson worth repeating. Dry fit your parts before install. Screw those fasteners together finger tight, make sure it all fits, before you are on your back wresting a dangling engine. Glad you got it all worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 I am having some issues getting the engine positioned in my late 260z using jtr mounts as well. The driver's side mount is rubbing on the steering shaft & won't sit all the way down. The section of the motor mount looks like it can be cut off without affecting strength, I just have not heard of clearance issues in that area. I was also wondering the best way to make sure the motor is in straight? I'm not sure the core support is straight enough to use as a reference as my car has had some front end damage. Finally I am trying to use a cxracing ls1 t56 transmission mount, what kind of drive line angle should I try to achieve? 3 degrees down seam to be the standard. Thanks for any help you can give me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 Do you have the JTR manual? Don't cut anything until you know what is causing the fitment issue. Driveline angles have been covered extensively in the Driveline forum. Search there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 I do have the jtr manual, while it did talk about trimming the driver's mount on the side for set back plate clearance it did not mention the bottom for steering shaft clearance. I am using a small cap HEI so I maybe further back than mentioned in my older edition of the JTR manual, but am still only about half way on the slots in the crossmember, as slotted per JTR manual. I will check through the driveling subforum for angle discussions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ritrebor Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Quote The driver's side mount is rubbing on the steering shaft & won't sit all the way down. Are you using the spacer plates that go between the cross member and the frame? https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/datsun-z-parts/products/dat-105-spacers-between-body-and-front-crossmember-one-pair ritrebor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 14 hours ago, ritrebor said: Are you using the spacer plates that go between the cross member and the frame? https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/datsun-z-parts/products/dat-105-spacers-between-body-and-front-crossmember-one-pair ritrebor I did not use these and my shaft cleared with minor trimming. I may have a photo somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Yes I do have the 1/2 inch spacers for the crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisted46 Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 I know this is outdated but i wanted to chime in and say that I did not use the crossmember spacers and I have 1/2" clearance between my block hugger headers and steering shaft. I did not slot the mouns and the motor is very snug in the back maybe 3/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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