Sadeem28 Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Hello all, I am looking to pickup a 1976 Datsun 280z on Sunday and was wondering what are the most common rust areas that I should concentrate on ? Any tips would be appreciated. 1) Floor boards 2) spare wheel area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Floors, under the battery tray, spare wheel well, exterior doglegs, and the hatch sill are the most common areas. You should also check if the frame rails are crushed or not. That's a relatively easy replacement, but it's good to check what condition they're in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadeem28 Posted June 10, 2019 Author Share Posted June 10, 2019 16 minutes ago, calZ said: Floors, under the battery tray, spare wheel well, exterior doglegs, and the hatch sill are the most common areas. You should also check if the frame rails are crushed or not. That's a relatively easy replacement, but it's good to check what condition they're in. Great info.. will make notes of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 If you don't know what to look for I would suggest finding someone who does. An extra $100 spent here or lunch or beer or whatever is going to save you weeks of work down the line, and an objective voice to tell you to walk away may be worth far more than that. https://zcarguide.com/datsun-240z-rust-inspection-guide-common-rust-areas/ http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm Are good links. Keep in mind if some of those are gone it is most likely hiding other things. If the body has completely rusted through I would be highly suspect of the frame rails. Same with the battery tray if those are gone frame rails are most likely affected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadeem28 Posted June 14, 2019 Author Share Posted June 14, 2019 On 6/12/2019 at 11:24 AM, seattlejester said: If you don't know what to look for I would suggest finding someone who does. An extra $100 spent here or lunch or beer or whatever is going to save you weeks of work down the line, and an objective voice to tell you to walk away may be worth far more than that. https://zcarguide.com/datsun-240z-rust-inspection-guide-common-rust-areas/ http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm Are good links. Keep in mind if some of those are gone it is most likely hiding other things. If the body has completely rusted through I would be highly suspect of the frame rails. Same with the battery tray if those are gone frame rails are most likely affected. Appreciate the input. The guy ending up selling it before i could get there. Search is still on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadeem28 Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 (edited) All, I ended up picking up a 1977 datsun 280z yesterday with 63k miles and matching numbers. The rust is not that bad, the floor pan on the driver side has been patched up with rivets. The guy tried to sand the paint and prime it and eventually realized that he couldn't do it. The car kinda runs but doesn't stay on for more then 30 seconds. What to check for ? What should I change to try and make it run ? Oil and oil filter change ? spark plugs ? injectors ? got all the service guide and owner manual downloaded Edited June 17, 2019 by Sadeem28 grammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunkhouse Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadeem28 Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 20 hours ago, bunkhouse said: Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com. thanks, I have started gathering documents and tools that I may need. Got the battery out to charge it and noticed the battery tray has a lot of rust issues to the point it was crumbling in my hands. Any recommendations on new smaller battery and maybe move it to the back ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 https://skillard.com/products/braille-battery-box if the sheet metal in the normal battery area is complete crap, might want to look into this as well https://skillard.com/products/s30-battery-tray-area-patch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 My bet would be fuel related. I would say if you take off the return line and I bet it will dribble by the time it shuts off, most likely a clogged filter or gummed up lines. Please be safe when working with fuel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadeem28 Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 6 hours ago, Neverdone said: https://skillard.com/products/braille-battery-box if the sheet metal in the normal battery area is complete crap, might want to look into this as well https://skillard.com/products/s30-battery-tray-area-patch The full tray area looks like a better fit. Any recommendations on a battery ? 2 hours ago, seattlejester said: My bet would be fuel related. I would say if you take off the return line and I bet it will dribble by the time it shuts off, most likely a clogged filter or gummed up lines. Please be safe when working with fuel! Yeah I was thinking fuel too because he was just going crazy and spraying starter fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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