rb26+ 680cc injectors+ 11psi dyno sheet

[stony]

 

well here it is. this was at 11psi (STOCK) on a dynojet. we had some issues with getting the timing to rear on the dyno so didnt have timing scale ot torque scale

 

as soon as i get it i will post the dyno run at 15 psi with a profecB hooked up. it was incredible the difference it made in the lower rpms. we got 80 hp in spots

 

the 2 lines are the before and after with the 680cc injectors.

[Guest Zpeed]

damn thats some goooood **** ,

 

whats ur next engine mod, bigger turbos, for more boost

[Bob_H]

Ok, now my curiosity is peaked.

The engine is rated at a conservative 280 hp and 271 lb-ft of torque. Now you said that dyno plot was Stock. What exactly is aftermarket/different from a R-33 RB26DETT? I know you have a monster intercooler and an aftermarket downpipe and exhaust. IS that it? I knew they were underrated, but you are talking about 400 crank hp vs 280. Do you think your SDS made a difference?

Second, the torque upped with the R-34 to 293 from 271, still at the same rpm. What model did you pull yours from? Does it matter if you get it from a R-32/33 or 34? I would think that a R-34 RB26 would be your better option. Is there a significant price difference btw the RB's from newer R-34's vice the older R-32's?

I realize you may not be able to answer those questions, but I appreciate what you can address.

BTW, screaming 1/4 mi times. And on a stock motor no less. Well, it is only fair to credit how cold it is up there in Alaska compared to say, Texas or Florida. That surely helps the turbo setup. What are the temps when you run? I remember your comment on the cold and rainy day.

-Bob Hanvey

 

BTW, on your webpage, the wording/links overlap. You can still select your various pages, but they are on top of each other.

[BRAD D]

TURBOS LOVE FREE FLOWING EXHAUST THAT ALONE MUST BE GOOD FOR A LOT OF THE GAINED POWER, WITH NO CATS. HAVE YOU EVER LOOKED UNDER A 300ZX TWIN TURBO? THAT EXHAUST SYSTEM HAS 4 CATS 2 PRE MUFFLERS AND 2 MUFFLERS NOT TO MENTION SMALL DIA TUBING.

 

STONY ON SOME OF YOUR POSTS YOU MENTION 225 TIRES WHAT KIND OF 1/4 TIMES ARE YOU GETTING WITH THEM? ARE THAY DR'S?

 

THAT IS WHAT I'M RUNNING ALL AROUND ON THE STREET 225/45R17'S BFG G-FORCE DR'S, JUST WONDERING HOW THAY WILL HOOK UP WITH MY RB26DETT.

[SleeperZ]

 

Stony, those power figures are absolutely unreal. The RB26 motor amazes me. What RPM are you turning to get that kind of power at 11psi?

 

[stony]

BOB, im running the sds with 680 cc injectors thats where all the power is coming from. im able to trim the fuel and timing to get the most out of the engine. and yes opening up the intake and exhaust made huge difference.

the r-32 gtr motor is the cheapest, only becasue there are a ton of them. the r33 is a little more expensive, the r-34 is stupid expensive because its relatively new. but they are all the same motor. just have different computer stuff on them. there may be some differences but all in all as far as i know they are the same motors. i think they changed cam profiles from year to year but not by much .

 

Monster intercooler? its pretty much a stock size intercooler for the gtr. i got it from a sr20 silvia. now in that car its huge but for the gtr it would not have been worth the money to install it.

 

its in the mid 70s low 80s in the summer here. but my luck its been pretty crappy on the days at the track. traction suffers big time if it gets too cold

 

Ill check out teh page but it was fine last time... maybe a glitch or something

 

Brad

the last time i ran at the track i used the 225 bfg g force DRs and they worked really well i was suprised..... i used them to try and take some strain off the halfshafts on the launch but still broke a ujoint. mine were 225 50 15 though. I hope your ready to start breaking stuff. im done with teh IRS going ford nine inch with a th350, the rod shop in austrailia makes an adapter to mount the th350/400/glide to teh rb ;>

 

sleeper,

I shift at 7250 adn thats what we ran it to on the dyno. My latest numbers are 394 to the wheels at 15 psi and 92 oct pump gas. as soon as i get a scan ill post it

[Guest Anonymous]

Can you post pics of the engine, or send the to my email RcRacer456@aol.com That is my dream setup, but that's just it, a dream. How much did everything cost, the engine, shipping, and how much to put it in? I found a place in Australia that has it for $5,300 US$. That includes the engine, 6 speed trany, computer, shipping, and chip that limits it to 400 Km/h(which is 240 MPH!!)and 8,500 RPM. That's with 96 octane fuel at 1.2 bar(isn't 1 bar 14 PSI? if so then that's 17(16.8)PSI)

[240Z Turbo]

Stony, I am so jealous and cannot wait until I enter the world of RB motors. Imaging a setup of bigger turbo's and 20+psi of boost on a daily driver. 500rwhp in a 240z would be utterly brutal and easily a low 10s street car. For now all I can do is twinturbo the L6 and squint my eyes while I imagine it was an RB26! For some reason no matter how hard I squint the intake manifold won't move to the other side!!! DOH! Congrats. I will do an 11psi dyno run this week with the new IC and converter. I hope it beats the 270RWHP I got last time I dynoed at 10psi. One positive note is that the converter was too loose and I ran 14.1:1 AFR on that run!

[stony]

Bob,

 

I purchased the engine, intercooler, 5 speed tranny, driveshaft, r-200 lsd, for 3700 US. as far as the install goes hard to tell there i had the SDS installed, all pipe welding ( intercooler adn exhaust) done at the same place for around 700 in labor, the exhaust was a L engine KAKImoto, 90 mm tip to tip, and the down pipe is a modded gtr unit, the exhaust was arounf 600, and the down pipe was 250. So not counting all the little nit noid stuff that popped up it was around 6 K from junkyard to driving ;>

 

I would personally stay away from the stock computer as it is expensive to tune it everytime you upgrade. I went with SDS and love it ;>.

 

6 Speed? out of what? not the gtr mission is it? if it is its pretty much useless unless you plan on trying to go 4 WD with it. the passenger side will have to be hacked up pretty good to get everything in there.

 

the pics i have that are current are on the page. if you want specific pics let me know and ill take some.

 

240z

My goal is 600+ rwhp.... that wont be for a while as engine parts are hard to come by here in alaska.

 

a slightly ported head, 272 cams, forged pistons and rods ( better then stock) t-78 turbine, 1.4K booste = about 750!!!!! (buddies GTR) I probably wont do full head tune but will go with a twin super 60 setup with bigger injectors and about 1.5-6 K booste.

In theory im in the tens just dont have the slip to prove it ;< 11.2 @ 127 MPH with 2.0 60 foot, well i dont know what do you think

 

im shopping for a nine inch now and considering a auto swap too just not sure yet about the tranny. i might just do the solid rear and try it like that and see if i break the My current 5 speed ( GTS-T ).

[Guest Anonymous]

oops, It's just the 5 speed. But someone was telling that the AWD tranny was electronicly controlled, so you could just use the RWD setting, I don't know for sure though. I have a video of a 9 sec, 1/4 mlie, Skyline GTR going through all six gears. It's cool he goes through 2nd in about 1/2 sec. Oh, and it's Ben. Robert is my middle name. Bob is short for Robert, hence Ben Bob(my grandpa gave me this nickname)now you know

[Bob_H]

Well, I've got some request for engine pics.

Basicly some similar to Cuong's. Some side shots of the front area of the motor,(looking at motor to radiator clearance). A shot of the turbo areas to see how the twin's sit down there and how close they are to the strut tower. A shot of the rear of the motor and how close/clearance issues with the firewall. Any shots that show your wiring with the SDS unit. And that brings up the ignition, are you running the coils from a SDS unit or are they RB parts?

If you get a chance, a shot of the modified transmission crossmemeber and the driveshaft would be great. Basicly the modded parts are the high demand for pictures parts b/c they show what had to be done to make it work in the Z.

Lastly, you have mentioned before that the Z31 RB20 mounts sit the motor forward. With what has to be done to the Z31 oil pan, I take it not much room is there to lower the motor,(or is that not an issue? Again, a pic of the oil pan to crossmemeber pic would be great as well). But how far back do you think the motor can be sat? (meaning how much further back than your setup) If you ever had access, a corner weighting scale would be great to show your F to R distribution. Actually, you can cheat to check this at a local CAT or truck scale that measures the axle weights. You park it half on one and half on another scale and get the break down. It shouldn't have to be exactly centered btw the two and should give a rough idea. The only real problem is the min resolution on these truck scales is usually 100 lb increments. In a 2400lb car that can be a few % difference.

Thanks,

Bob

[Bob_H]

Oh really?

-Bob

(resident smart ass)

[Guest Zachb55]

I would also be very interested in getting pictures like Bob H had described. If you would email them, or better yet, post them on your site, it would be highly appreciated. great to hear your gettin to the 10's. I dont know that an automatic would be the way to go though, i certainly wouldnt do it with my knowledge, but maybe you know something about it that i dont...

Thanks

-Zach

 

Zachb55@msn.com - in case you decide to email.

[RB26DETT]

Hi all,

 

first up, congratulations to Stony for a top RBZ conversion, your car is mega crazzzy!!!

 

Zachb55>> Most drag cars run better times when they use an auto box, mainly because it eliminates driver error when shifting gears and the reduces reaction times between gear changes. With an auto box you need to have all the gearing right and the right converter as well to get good results though. Personally I'm sticking with a 5 speed as I'm not keen on drag racing.

 

Ben Bob>> The GTR 4WD system is operated by what is called the ATTESA computer. The GTR is not always 4WD, it’s mostly RWD and then it transfers power to the front when the ATTESA computer detects slip. There are "interceptors" on the market such as the HKS ATTESA Torque Split Controller which allows the driver to have some level of adjustment in the amount of power that goes to the front wheels. In order to get the GTR 4WD working in a zed is very complicated as all the sensors are needed as well as the ATTESA computer. When the GTR guys go to a stand alone type computer, they still need to leave the ATTESA computer in and only take over the fuel and ignition controls, to keep the 4WD working!!!

 

Good luck to all that are currently doing an RBZ conversion!!!

[BRAD D]

Stony are you talking about T28 / super 60 turbos? Turbonetics sells them for 950$ good for 300hp each they told me but I think he was talking about a talon.

 

I have z31 motor mounts coming but if some one is making custom ones that move the motor back I will buy them. If not how hard do you think it would be to make them?

 

Stony looks like you fell in love with the ¼ mile, switching to auto and a ford 9”? That should make it bomb proof! All said and done how fast do you want to be in the ¼?

 

I just want to run 11.00-11.30’s do you think I could do it with g-force DR 225/45R17’s?

[Scottie-GNZ]

Based on my experience, DO NOT TRY TO RUN THAT HARD WITH 17" DRs! That short, stiff sidewall does not allow the tire to hook up. I went from low-1.60s with a couple of 1.55s with 275/50-15s and 255/50-16s to a best of 1.82 with 275/40-17s. Most of the time I just blow them away off the line.

[stony]

you want to be where im at now? 400+ rwhp running 11.2 and shattering ujoints if i launch too hard.

 

As far as the turbos mine are t-25 they take them rebuild, bore out the compressor , add a bigger compressor wheel and a clipped turbine and its supposed to be good for 300+ each. I want to eventually run 8.5X not sure how long that will take though, Will for sure talk lots more money then i have right now

 

As far as tires you need to run something with some sidewall like scottie says. If your stuck with 17s, id buy a set of 15s just for the track. 17s are expensive too

[stony]

here some pics at the track

[Guest Anonymous]

stony, Im curious mainly on your engine management system. How do you like the SDS setup, Ive been looking at it as well as haltech and autronic. Ive been reading on motec, but a bit to pricey. I like the autronic too, but may stick with the haltech or sds to keep the price down. Ive read in other posts that you mainly wish you had a datalogging function. Other than that, are there any other downsides to the SDS system?

 

Also, if you take the pictures bob requested could you shoot a set my way too. Mainly the oil pan, downpipe and turbo clearance. sorry for all the questions.

 

Im going to be in chiba for a year, on my last trip there I found some RBs fairly cheap so Ive been planning this buildup for a while. Just found this site recently and have been thrilled at all of the information here. Also, I made friends at m's factory a GTR tuning house around chiba that has a pretty mean drag GTR (1000ps rb). They make some nice parts, as well as sell lots of other stuff. If you need help finding anything that isnt too huge from japan you can hit me up at boostaholic180sx@hotmail.com

 

One other thing (sorry). Have you had any problems with the oil pump on the car, Ive heard of some GTR oil pumps going in higher power cars? Im planning on buying a few extra pumps and other maintenance items if I do send an engine to the states. Thanks for all of the information.

Charlie

[stony]

the oil pump problem is on hi HP hi rpm appplications but a good aftermarket pump solves the problem.

 

I love sds just wish i could datalog. if i did it again id go with some kind of stand alone that can data log.

 

If your going to japan pic up a couple spare r-200 LSDs. you can make a pretty penny selling them in the states. Also start looking at what kind of JDM honda stuff is selling on ebay. most of that stuff can be had for almost nothing in japan. Also if you want to make some money id bring a clean stock 240Z and sell it over there. you can get 10000+ easy for a clean rust free stock Z especially and earlier model.

 

good luck

Im waiting for the pics i uploaded to get approved then i will post them in this thread