240Z_Master Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 I'm looking for between 350-400Hp to start. (Tight budget) Put as I tweak out the car' date=' and I have the money to spend I will start to up that number. When I'm done I want around 550-600Hp, but who knows I may want more. I know the the RB25 block could handle that power, but that's at it's limits. And I don't know about you, but I don't like the idea of have to rebuild this motor because it couldn't take the power. Also the RB26 Lets itself easier to get more power than the RB25. And from what I've seen it's cheaper to get 600Hp out of the RB26 plus it will be more reliable while doing it. Just my thoughts based on the information that I've read so far.[/quote'] The reliability is only as good as you build it, and whoever maintained it previously. If you are looking at those 500+WHP range, please go with the RB26, you wont kick yourself. If you plan to top out like at 450WHP, then keep the RB25 because it should be able to handle that. Yes, the parts are cheaper for the RB26 to build. Good luck. My motor is temporary until one day I get insane and decide to build a RB26, but I gotta walk before I can run!. -Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 The reliability is only as good as you build it' date=' and whoever maintained it previously. -Cheers![/quote'] I'm hopeing that the engine I get will be in good shape. The first thing I'm going to do will be to spec out all the clearences, and replace the Gaskets, WP, OP, and TB. I'don't want to rebuild the bottom end, but I may have it honed and new rings installed. (Just to be on the "Safe" side) Can anyone tell me how to fabricate the Oil pickup for the RB26DETT swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest office555 Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 "I didn’t think the GTR drive train would fit in the car but it will…. but this places the motor so far fwd the radiator has to be mounted on the other side of the core support!!!! But does give the car AWD ;>" So, I take it if you use the GS-T transmission, the car becomes RWD instead of AWD? Which year of GS-T transmission is needed? Also, do the Z-axles bolt up to the R-200 w/ LSD? Or are custom axles needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 "I didn’t think the GTR drive train would fit in the car but it will…. but this places the motor so far fwd the radiator has to be mounted on the other side of the core support!!!! But does give the car AWD ;>" So' date=' I take it if you use the GS-T transmission, the car becomes RWD instead of AWD? Which year of GS-T transmission is needed? Also, do the Z-axles bolt up to the R-200 w/ LSD? Or are custom axles needed?[/quote'] DuDe Did you search? your question is answered in this topic as a matter af fact. look thru the rest of threads in this area and your questions will be answered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest office555 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 D'oh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ngngzx Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 thanks alot for that stony.. really helps me, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 DuDe Did you search? your question is answered in this topic as a matter af fact. look thru the rest of threads in this area and your questions will be answered. hey stoney! not sure if this has been covered, but in regards to the previous post. i know about the tranmissions and whatnot that come on the BNR chassis and all that. but you say that the GTR transmission will fit into the car as a whole? so i can turn a S30 into an AWD car? what would i need in terms of front suspension? i'd assume an entirely new setup on the front and possibly a tube frame to allow for some sturdy points for new mountng points to be welded too, and new parts to be fastened to?! you think it's worth it?! or would an AWD Z have a really sloppy suspension geometry. this seems like a swap i would much rather do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 The AWD swap has been done. as long as you keep the gtr geometry it would be fine i guess. search AWD in this forum and it should produce so pics of the AWD done in japan and how it was done. If not PM me and i will search it out for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 The AWD swap has been done. as long as you keep the gtr geometry it would be fine i guess. interesting. i always thought it would be reallllllly hard to do a swap like that, as im sure i've seen some feasable candidates for such a job, but no one ever did it. i was always left wondering why. any reports on performance figures? i'd say probably slightly better than a factory GTR for customization options/obligations along the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 i always thought it would be reallllllly hard to do a swap like that Well my friend, it's not like if it was an easy one either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest michaelau Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 very interesting information on rb swaps. as Im from Australia I have an 1986 z31 which had a vg30 installed originaly but the motor when I baught it was gone so I have sorced a rb20det eccs motor from a r32 skyline so the main question is what about the engine mounts I was thinking of obtaining a front cut (no motor) from a r32 skyline and mounting the engine mounts from there that is the question also I know about the tail shaft needs changing and maybe the gearbox mount as Im installing gearbox from r32 as well so the car will have slightly lighter weight. any help would be fantastic thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest michaelau Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 How to swap an rb engine into a z First you need to figure out what engine and performance you want… The rb-20 motor is a 2 liter turbo or N/A motor both are considerably stronger then the L motor The rb-25 is basically the same as the 2.l but has more displacement and can be modded to handle more HP in its stock internal form. A friend of mine took a stock N/A rb25' date=' threw a turbo on it and ran the hell out of it for a year and a half at very high boost levels before he put a hole in a piston!!!! Car dyno’d at 430 RWHP on a chassis dyno The rb-26 DETT comes twin turbo only… it is a detuned Japan touring car motor. With simple upgrade like a chip , intake, and exhaust you can be well over 300hp. The bottom end is built to with stand 600hp before needing upgrade forged pistons and rods. This motor is considerably different then the 2.0 and 2.5. The only thing that is swappable between the 2.5 and 2.6 is the block and that has to be bored and some other mods done to fit the head. If possible you want to stick with the 2.6 block especially if your going to build it up for a lot of power… the 2.6 block is a lot stronger Ill start with the rb-26 swap as this is what I did. I purchased the majority of the parts from one shop on Okinawa (HAAS) and got a pretty good deal on everything. Here’s what I got Rb-26dett, trust FMIC, r-33 GTS-T 5 speed tranny, r-200 LSD, drive shaft that I needed, and a bunch of other stuff I ended up not using. 3500.00 Things I didn’t use… stock computer, stock wire harness, stock oil pan First thing I did was remove the GTR oil pan , installed the pickup / oil pan from the z-31. Then I installed the z-31 motor mounts. I installed the motor with tranny bolted up. We then took the stock mount from the L tranny cut it up and welding it back together. Then cut and shaped the chassis part of the mounts and bolted everything together. Once everything was in place where I wanted it we tacked it in, then removed everything and welded it all up. It wasn’t till later that we figured out the drive shaft would fit without cutting it ;> I was told this but had never seen it done so I wasn’t sure. From this point it was a matter of fabricating all the stuff to make the engine work. Other parts I bought from different sources… Exhaust (Kakimoto) I ordered this thru Matt at motorworx on Okinawa. http://www.motorworx.tv/ I bought the GTR down pipe from the kinser auto hobby shop USMC then had it modified by matt to fit the 260z install. basically cut it in half then welded a couple of bends in it to fit Fuel pump I bought off of ebay … bosche 600hp injection pump. The oil pan and sump I got out of a Japan spec Z-31 rb20det 300zx in a junk yard. the front of the oil pan had to be cut out and lowered to clear the bearing retainers in the 2.6. The block has a spot for a rear pickup but it is not drilled out so I had to use the front port on the 2.6. This meant I had to make a custom oil pickup that went from the front of the motor to the rear. If you use the rb-25 block this is not necessary, in fact everything from the Z-31 is bolt in!!!! I purchased the SDS EMS thru matt at motorworx…. I can not say enough about matt… he is awesome and very meticulous… if he wouldn’t do it on his own car he wont tell you or do it to your car Labor I did pretty much all the manual labor like installing the motor, tranny, diff, and a bunch of other stuff associated with a body restoration;> Matt at Motorworx did all the welding on my car…to include the exhaust, down pipe, intercooler in and out mods, and piping He modified my fuel tank pickup to a –8 for better fuel delivery. He also did the SDS install, and setup. Which without changing anything the car ran a best 11.138 @ 121!!!!!! Ok to summarize… with all the parts above everything bolts in You’ll need to make tranny mounts, and all the associated welding for the exhaust and intercooler piping. From there it just like any other swap. The motor sits a little fwd with the z-31 mounts so if your looking for optimal handling you’ll need to make custom mounts to set the motor down and back a bit. You’ll also need a custom drive shaft. I didn’t think the GTR drive train would fit in the car but it will…. but this places the motor so far fwd the radiator has to be mounted on the other side of the core support!!!! But does give the car AWD ;> The rb-20 is an ok swap but only provides minimal power upgrade from a turbo l-28 The rb-25 is a bit better and can handle more power with its stock internals. The rb-26 is the ultimate in reliability and performance…. This motor can be built to 600+ HP and be driven to work everyday with a full exhaust. (no earplugs;>) For anyone considering this mod if you’re in Japan or Australia or have a lot of money go for it…. Anywhere else id go with v-8 or Toyota 2jz TT which is a very similar in performance to the rb26 my 2 cents .... any question ? thanks stony for the information it was great to hear from you and all the guys input. I have purchased rb20det eccs motor and will put in a 1986 australian z31. looking forward to getting into the car and cruse and streets I have gained a EFI throttle body from a XF ford falcon so will increase the flow into the engine. Much more horsepower with polished and ported heads with rb20de cams as I have been told much more lumpy and better through the rev range. Also to keep in the z range later on a z32 airflow meter and changing the motor to rb24 with rb26 crank etc It will be a little monster of a motor. I have been looking for engine diagrams and workshop manuals I cant find anywhere all the sites I have found all closed very disheartening. Ok thats enough for me for now happy z,ing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Well, the only english version of the "paper" manual I'v heard of, came from Australia so, check your local dealer for a copy. It's worth the try I guess. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willens Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Jesus ♥♥♥♥; I sat here and read every post in this topic thoroughly at 3:30AM. If that in itself doesn't designate me as 'serious' about an RB26 swap for my soon-to-be 260Z, then I know not what does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anyotherone Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 the rb20det from the z31 in japan did not need to be modified it is a rear sump. you just take the oil pan and pickup from that motor and bolt it on the rb25 ;> What do you do about the oil dipstick position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 What do you do about the oil dipstick position? You move it, there is a spot for it, R32s have it drilled already so you just remove the plug, R33+ you have to drill but the spot is marked. Search has more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anyotherone Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 You move it, there is a spot for it, R32s have it drilled already so you just remove the plug, R33+ you have to drill but the spot is marked. Search has more info. Thanks, I found the info in another thread and moved it to the rear already. The car is running and sounds great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I have theRB26 manual if that is any help in pdf format. If you want it send me an email to mike@bluevista.net.au and I will forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Well since the question was asked... and i thought i posted it in the original thread. The issue The skyline drive shaft doesn't bolt up to the z r200 diff. What i did was take the skyline r200 diff drive shaft input shaft and swapped it with the Z r-200. i simply used and impact to remove the nut. tapped out the input shaft, slipped on the skyline flange and torqued it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Well since the question was asked... and i thought i posted it in the original thread. The issue The skyline drive shaft doesn't bolt up to the z r200 diff. What i did was take the skyline r200 diff drive shaft input shaft and swapped it with the Z r-200. i simply used and impact to remove the nut. tapped out the input shaft, slipped on the skyline flange and torqued it down. So your saying the kenght of the Skylines drive shaft works on the S30 with R200 equiped with any mounts or just the Z31 mounts ? If that is it its a very nice discovery you made their ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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