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Captainkim

There are several solutions to your problem.  None of them include a rubber hose (they crack and leak), cutting  a hole, or putting weld goop on a fuel fitting.

The solutions do include relocating where the fuel line ends up in the engine bay,  proper fuel lines and fittings that make for a safe and reliable fuel system.

 

The previous owner of my first 240Z V8 also cut the fuel line just behind the firewall and then ran a rubber hose to the carb. The hose cracked and leaked. I replaced the hose once and it also cracked and leaked. The cut portion of the fuel line was down in the trans tunnel like yours and impossible to get to. What to do?  I ran a new fuel line  all the way from the tank to the original stock location on the passenger frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge and all was well.

 

On my second 240Z V8 project I kept the stock fuel line  location on the passenger side frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge.  See pictures below.

 

Options:

 

1. Cut the collection of brass fittings off the fuel hard line and install a A-N to hardline adapter into which you screw in a A-N hose fitting.  Then you run a flex line along the passenger side frame rail with  A-N hose fittings on each end to the approx location of the original stock fuel line. This line will connect to your regulator and pressure gauge and then to the carb.  The flex line must be anchored to the car with rubber clamps along its route to the carb. When you cut the fuel line where the fittings are, use a tubing cutter and make sure that the cut is perfectly square with the tubing i.e., not an angle.  De-burr the cut with a fine file and then slide on the A-N hose to hard line adapter. To do this fix you will need to learn how to select and install A-N fittings. There are many videos available that show how to cut SS flex hose and install A-N fittings. This is expensive, but you fuel system will be leak free and will out live you.

 

2. You could run a new hard line all the way from the fuel pump to the stock location on the passenger side frame rail. From the hard line run a SS flex line with A-N fittings to the carb.

 

Note:  if you are not comfortable with A-N fittings you can use standard hose clamps on the SS flex line.  In this case you would use push on type nipples on each device that needs a hose connected to it.

 

Recommendation: Take some time and look at all of the options before cutting or modifying your car.

 

At a minimum, to do the job correctly, you will need to secure your car on jack stands and pull the transmission and driveline in order to re-work the kluge* the previous owner created.

 

                                                                           * kluge = a mass of IL-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.

 

 

 

FUEL LINE TO CARB FROM STOCK LOCATION.jpg

FUEL LINE WITH AN ADAPTOR AND HOSE CONNECTION ENGINE BAY.jpg

FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE AND FILTER  LOCATION.jpg

STOCK FUEL LINE ON FRAME RAIL.jpg

Edited by Miles
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By the way, did the previous owner install an oil pressure  sensing fuel pump cut off switch. In case of a crash you want the electric fuel pump to stop pumping gas. The oil pressure safety switch senses when oil pressure goes to zero and shuts off the fuel pump.  Basically,  power for the fuel pump runs through the switch to a fuel pump relay (recommended) to the fuel pump. When the engine is running oil pressure rises and closes the switch energizing a relay that closes and switches 12 volts to the fuel pump. Without the relay, the oil pressure safety switch has to carry the amperage load demanded by the fuel pump which sometimes burns out he switch. Also, the fuel pump is most efficient when it receives a full 12 volts. Painless sells a very nice fuel pump relay harness that can be connected and triggered by the oil pressure safety switch.  See picture below.  There are alternate install locations and methods to cut off the fuel pump.

 

Recommend that you purchase the Jags that Run Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual and memorize it.  The manual explains how to build a safe V8 Z car.

Oil Sending Unit Install.JPG

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I didn't see this before I had coffee.  It could kill you. So re-engineer your fuel line routing before driving this car.

 

Suggest that you post pictures of the fuel tank to fuel pump to fuel line and include showing how the fuel pump is wired.  In other words all of the fuel related equipment, wires, pump etc back by the fuel tank.  I now suspect there may be problems in how the fuel system was built from the tank forward.

68D39C41-213C-4A7C-B62E-A8121C03AC0F.thumb.jpeg.7e13ae10ed13566239edddb44f7354d3.jpeg

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40 minutes ago, silverado22c said:

Image resize site

 

The above link is a link to a website to reduce image size, if files are too large to load to this site.

 

You can also use Microsoft Paint.  Open the picture in Paint and select Resize.  A picture can be resized between 1% to100% up or down.

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I don't want to scare you, but that first 240Z V8 project I mentioned above was so FUBARed up by the previous owner that we ended up pulling it completely apart (shell) and started over. The only part we kept was the engine.

 

 

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If you can block the engine up, pull the transmission (leaving the bell housing on the engine) and loosen all of the clamps that hold the fuel line in the tunnel you may be able to move the fuel enough to cut that group of fittings off. Then you can install a A-N hose fitting to hard line adapter on the fuel line. You will have to teach yourself how to make up a SS braided hose ends (fittings). 

 

The other problem you have is that the transmission is actually riding against the fuel line.  The PO cut a piece of the transmission out to clear the fuel line. You will need to address this by re-routing the fuel line away from the transmission.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Miles

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Thanks for the warning!!!   I ended up just connecting a hose as a temporary use for testing engine start. i ordered a Vincos 20ft 6an an6 nylon and SS Braided lines.  

So now that the gas has stopped leaking, the issue still stands.  But first l want to make sure the car is safe.  The pic is not great but the fuel pump is right by the tank.  The fuel pump was then sliced into two?  And one just isn’t used and the other goes to the oil sender switch and then an output? from the sender to the relay I set up temporarily.  I hope the pictures are clear 

24F3A6D4-4AB4-4675-9329-D8954B1753A5.jpeg

AAE6034E-77AC-497B-A1D0-331CA374D41A.jpeg

36A1E841-66BD-48BC-B24F-60D04F632D0B.jpeg

AD7A7CBE-0DBF-4D33-92DF-A3078149BF36.jpeg

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I'm really starting to think this is a simple carb issue.  Have you pulled it apart and inspected it since you bought the car? 

 

I think you said that the accelerator pumps were pushing fuel; but there still could be any number of issues with the carb causing your problem, most solved quite easily.....dirty/plugged jets, incorrect float settings, etc.  A carb rebuild kit is very cheap, and a good idea on any used car that's been through multiple POs.

 

Oftentimes, the entire fuel system (from tank to carb) is full of dirt, crud and rust; and your car will never run correctly until all that crap is cleaned out.

 

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I ordered a new ignition switch.  Hoping that it’s something in there that’s not clicking. 

 

In the interim,   I know there is a lot of info out there regarding painless wiring but I Can’t find one information that  is relevant to my 2/71 240z. Everything is either EZ wiring from Australia with right handed drive as well as partial connections.  Most of the time I see different connections being made.  Worst is that I’ve downloaded all of the wiring that I could find but there are still wires that do t match the colors in the schematic.  At this point I believe the ignition is set, the lights go on and off but the turn signals don’t work individuality....all four blinkers are going off.  If there is a comprehensive article out there for a painless wire 10101,I would be SOOOOOOO grateful.  I just want the turn signals to work and the brakes so I can drive 

DA269A5D-82FB-4E31-8E91-AE3022C4CB57.png

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