Jump to content
HybridZ

Recommended Posts

@Ryanotown22 Thanks for sharing. Your system compared to mine is wayy more steady over all. If you floor it in neutral does the engine like to rev or does it seem like it bogs for a second? Also is your PVC system still in place? Mine is still connected however it doesn't seem to work properly (engine stays running if disconnected), yet I still get good vacuum readings. Thinking that could be part of the issue as well.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Surprising that it even started.  What was wrong with the 1983 EFI computer?  Why did you decide to buy the FAST EFI kit?  Might be a clue.   You showed a picture of your cylinder head tempe

Posted Images

@Ryanotown22 I changed all my settings to yours exactly, and re calibrated the TPS and IAC. Seems to run a little better during idle, not so much when you rev it. With the 20 psi settings I was not experiencing nearly as rich a mixture as these settings, when revving/under load. I'm gonna give the computer time to work and see if it leans it out a bit. I still think having low impedance injectors is my main issue.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Shiboh Mine does not bog under acceleration but I had to have the accel value to negative 6 to get it to stop bogging. I would drive it around if you can .  I will get a driving video up. My pvc system is still connected. One thing noticed is your air temp really fluctuates a lot more than mine. That can throw things off a bit. I wonder if your getting electric interference.  Are you connected straight to battery positive and negative? Your battery value us a little on the low side is also why I am wondering you can see in my video I am at 14.1 volts at idle.  On your warm video it looks really close to what my system is showing other than what I mentioned 

Edited by Ryanotown22
Link to post
Share on other sites

@Shiboh Here is a video from this morning going around a corner and up to about 60 sorry for the footage hard to hold and video, something happened to my temp sensor on the drive got to figure that one out but you can see when shifting or low load your AFR is going to be really low numbers that’s normal I had another aem AFR in my car before this and it’s the same thing your are adding a ton of gas into the car without any load it’s going to momentarily be super rich. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Ryanotown22 I just noticed my air temp reading fluctuating yesterday, before it was always steady. I haven't checked mine yet but I suspect it has melted since it's so close to the rad. And that makes sense about the AFR. Now I'm not seeing any big difference in our readings, however I don't feel like these readings are what they should be. If the injectors are rated at 19lb/hr and we are pushing almost 60 at WOT that's not good, right? I've already had to replace injectors once because I blew my original set trying to setup the ez efi. By the way it looks like your tps voltage is low, mine sits at .7 v at idle and 4.7 at WOT, which I'm pretty sure is where it's supposed to be. Then again I'm a noob so don't take my word for it.

Edited by Shiboh
Link to post
Share on other sites

@ShibohWhere do you see we are pushing 60 at WOT? (Edit I see the lb/hr on my video not sure going to research that. )As a side note my intake air temp sensor broke when I drive the temp moves all over the place at first I thought it was the wiring so I ordered a new connector and pigtail but it wasn’t that.  When I shake the sensor it kind of rattles and the temp fluctuates all over the place so I guess I need to order another one. Btw the air temp sensor is from 2002 Camaro if you search for it. Not sure what happened I was just driving and it went crazy on the drive.  I followed this video for the TPS to be at .2 .3 but I think all that matters is that it’s above .0 

 

Edited by Ryanotown22
Link to post
Share on other sites

According to the manual 

lb/hr data on the screen is 

“Current total fuel flow rate into the engine. Given in pounds per hour. This can be used to get a rough approximation of current engine power.
Horsepower = Fuel Flow (lbs/hr) x 2”

so if you see 60 that would be 120hp?  I did see it flash 70 for a second so maybe it’s estimating car makes 140hp.  
based on that explanation I don’t think that data is really meaningful 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you guys buy the FAST EFI again, knowing what you know now?  It's getting very close to go time to choose between this and the godzilla raceworks megasquirt unit.

 

I know some of you are using stock barb injectors, whereas I'll be using 14mm o-ring style high impedance units.  Maybe that's the difference?  The ECM has an easier time controlling the high impedance injectors and needs to be hacked to control the stock style injectors?

Link to post
Share on other sites

@tokuzumi it really depends on your goals and expectations. If you want a set it and forget it type system that you have limited control of and are fine with that the ez efi will work.  If you want to data log and control every little input into the system you will be let down with ez efi.  Also if you go with mega squirt you can control ignition that might be important to you.  It also depends on your level of how much you want to learn and have the time to learn to install and configure mega squirt .   For the ez efi I could have been up and running in maybe 3-4 hours from the time I opened the box to the time my car was driving.  (Add more time if you need a bung welded in your exhaust) Another plus of mega squirt is you have a ton of people using it and actively contributing on forums. With the ez efi there is very very few resources online for the Datsun setup with this thread probably having the most details. I personally have not really had issues aside from a bad temp sensor but that could happen to anyone but I also still am in the learning phase and feel like I need a lot more time driving to give all my feelings but so far it has been a good system. Again my system has stock barbed injectors for a 78 280z. My own personal goal was just to get rid of the old equipment and put in a system that had easily replaceable parts and the ez efi system fit that for me.

Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Ryanotown22 said:

@tokuzumi it really depends on your goals and expectations. If you want a set it and forget it type system that you have limited control of and are fine with that the ez efi will work.  If you want to data log and control every little input into the system you will be let down with ez efi.  Also if you go with mega squirt you can control ignition that might be important to you.  It also depends on your level of how much you want to learn and have the time to learn to install and configure mega squirt .   For the ez efi I could have been up and running in maybe 3-4 hours from the time I opened the box to the time my car was driving.  (Add more time if you need a bung welded in your exhaust) Another plus of mega squirt is you have a ton of people using it and actively contributing on forums. With the ez efi there is very very few resources online for the Datsun setup with this thread probably having the most details. I personally have not really had issues aside from a bad temp sensor but that could happen to anyone but I also still am in the learning phase and feel like I need a lot more time driving to give all my feelings but so far it has been a good system. Again my system has stock barbed injectors for a 78 280z. My own personal goal was just to get rid of the old equipment and put in a system that had easily replaceable parts and the ez efi system fit that for me.

@tokuzumi What he said. I personally wouldn't buy it again, I'd rather have an ECU I can control more accurately. However I think it's a good, easy and relatively cheap option for bringing old Z's back to life. I'm going to be switching to megasquirt soon myself.

Edited by Shiboh
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/20/2020 at 5:22 PM, Ryanotown22 said:

According to the manual 

lb/hr data on the screen is 

“Current total fuel flow rate into the engine. Given in pounds per hour. This can be used to get a rough approximation of current engine power.
Horsepower = Fuel Flow (lbs/hr) x 2”

so if you see 60 that would be 120hp?  I did see it flash 70 for a second so maybe it’s estimating car makes 140hp.  
based on that explanation I don’t think that data is really meaningful 

That makes much more sense that it would be reading fuel flow across all injectors. At least we know our injectors aren't running 3x the amount of fuel they are rated at. But yeah that equation is probably only accurate if we're burning a perfect mixture.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

My goal is to upgrade the old 40 year old components with more of a "set it and forget it" system.  My car is NA, and forced induction will not be part of the picture during my ownership.  

 

Although it may just boil down to availability.  The EZ EFI kit has been mostly out of stock for the last few months. It was briefly available about a month ago, and has been out of stock since. Megasquirt is available immediately, but you have to find the unobtainium 82-83 turbo distributors.

Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/chevrolet-gm/carb-to-efi/part1/

 

https://www.msextra.com/product-range/traditional-megasquirt/

 

The Megasquirt product range offers from the ‘cheap and cheerful’ batch fire fuel-only in full DIY assembly to full sequential fuel and spark on a V8 with a pre-assembled ECU.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@tokuzumi If you really want EZ EFI you can still buy it from FAST. You will just have to buy all the sensors but I'm pretty sure the harness and ecu is exactly the same. Just look for their multiport kit. For what you are trying to accomplish EZ EFI is definitely the easiest and quickest way to go.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I got a new air temp sensor from autozone and re-calibrated the IAC, and it's been running pretty good. However when the engine is warm the system gets really sporadic. Everything is jumping back and forth it seems I don't get it. 

 

 

 

This is only really noticeable when idling obviously, but if I watch the A/F while cruising I can see it going back and forth. I have always had this issue with this system and was one of the first indications to me that something wasn't right.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That is odd but I had that same sort of thing happening at idle but not while driving.  What I did to fix my idle surging all over was go through the wizard again and start over.  It’s either going through a cycle of adding too much fuel then not enough or too much air then not enough or a combination of both. What is your idle speed set at maybe try 900 rpm just as something to try. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Doesn't really seem fast or easy.  It's surprising how little instruction there is on their web site but how much advertisement there is.  An incredible amount about how easy and fantastic their products are but there doesn't seem to be a simple set of instructions or even a simple article about what to expect.

 

Do you guys have instructions that tell you how long it takes for the system to stabilize?  It can't be immediate.

 

I can't find anything on their web site.  And they can't spell "wiring" correctly.

 

https://www.fuelairspark.com/

 

image.png.ef66b42467a7064251d3c67283a70463.png

Edited by NewZed
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...