Ryanotown22 Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) Supposedly stabilized in around 50 miles but if you have bad “learned” values it will not work right and potentially only get worse that’s why I suggested a reset with the wizard. There is a way to totally reset it by doing the wizard 3 times in a row or something but not sure exactly that process. I agree the lack of documentation is not great and there is generally no documentation for something other than a v8. I did a lot of cross referencing with other self learning systems to fully understand this system. I am also not sure of the warranty on this system or how that would work if the ecu stops working since it is bought from a 3rd party. I would assume it’s covered from FAST but I have no registration info or anything other than the serial on the ecu Edited July 26, 2020 by Ryanotown22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) There's a process, but it's not clear what it is. Megasquirt has a "learning" function also, in case anyone wonders. http://www.cpgnation.com/inside-the-fast-xfi-2-0-hardware-and-software-tuning-features/ "The Self Learning VE table works by looking at your target air/fuel table and your base VE table and comparing the two, creating an automated VE map for your vehicle. Through the use of a dyno or normal street driving and with a wideband oxygen sensor and closed loop tuning, a ballpark fuel table can be created in short order. This obviously isn’t meant to nor can replace human input, but it will certainly get you a base to tune from. And for those jumping from the street to the strip and back, this is a great tool." Edited July 26, 2020 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Their support page has a lot of broken links. http://www.cpgnation.com/fast-quick-tech-video-installing-the-ez-efi-2-0/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 You just have to pull bits from a variety of past stories. Basically you have to tune it to within a certain range, then let it "learn". I think that their target market is people who buy this and have a tuner install it. http://www.cpgnation.com/installing-a-fast-xfi-system-in-a-1964-fuel-injected-hemi-dodge/ If you can get the ECU closed loop correction under five percent, you’re good to go. Richard targeted 12.8 for the max power A/F ratio and the fourth pull resulted in this setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanotown22 Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) With the ez efi system you really need your car in good working order before you install it. The system will not fix issues such as vacuum leaks exhaust leaks, bad grounds and power, bad fuel pressure, leaky injectors and on and on. I would never attempt an install on a car that’s not in good shape. The values the sensors get need to be stable and valid. Also you can have electrical interference that can throw off the system if you run wires parallel with spark plug wires and near ignition coil wires. There was one other thing I did that really helped stabilize my system was my timing on my car was way too advanced and it would not hold a steady idle I backed it down to about 10 degrees btdc. I also went over all my intake and exhaust nuts all my exhaust connections and my a/f bung to make sure the sensor was tight also made sure it didn’t get gunked up from too rich soot on it. Double check all vacuum line connections etc etc. I am not an advocate for the system I think there are a lot of downfalls but on my car it does work and seems to work well. I got about 50-60 miles on it now and haven’t had an issue other than the initial very first setup but once idle was stable everything seemed to be stable. Saying that I would buy the system again because it suits my needs. I am guessing there are cases that the system struggles to self learn with but I would assume that is when there are outside symptoms that it just can’t resolve. Edited July 26, 2020 by Ryanotown22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiboh Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 1 hour ago, NewZed said: Doesn't really seem fast or easy. It's surprising how little instruction there is on their web site but how much advertisement there is. An incredible amount about how easy and fantastic their products are but there doesn't seem to be a simple set of instructions or even a simple article about what to expect. Do you guys have instructions that tell you how long it takes for the system to stabilize? It can't be immediate. I can't find anything on their web site. And they can't spell "wiring" correctly. https://www.fuelairspark.com/ lol. Really it's not as fast or easy as they say it is lol. Zcardepot sent me an two sets of instructions, one from them and one from FAST. The zcardepot instructions basically just tell you what to put into the ecu pertaining to our engines. The FAST manual is much more in depth about all the sensors and how to setup the system but even so it's all really vague. They say after 50 miles the system should be tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanotown22 Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 (edited) @Shiboh I forgot to ask did you buy resistor style spark plugs? I did as part of this I bought bpr6es-11 supposedly they cut down on electrical interference that might help possibly and it is part of the recommendations in the instructions Edited July 29, 2020 by Ryanotown22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiboh Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 @Ryanotown22 Yes I am using resistor plugs. Apparently the tach adapter supplied with ez efi has issues, they recommend and msd box. I guess replacing this has helped some people with idle surging issues. The IAC is supposed to read 15% at warm idle when it's tuned correctly, with the correct recommended settings I'm seeing no less than 19% at any time. If I lower fuel pressure settings I can get it to be at or around 15% and the surging idle issue disappears. I have the feeling that using low impedance injectors is causing the system to put out more fuel than it's saying it is and messing everything up. https://www.pro-touring.com/archive/index.php/t-69999.html Many people have had this issue it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanotown22 Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 I just measured the ohms in my injectors and it came out to about 4.0 so I have low impedance injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tokuzumi Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 We have to keep in mind the injectors Nissan used in the bosch fuel injection vehicles were limited to just a handful of vehicles in the US. Since the mid-80s, multi point fuel injection (GM's TPI system, and Ford's EFI if we are just looking at V8s) have used the solid body EV1 style high impedance injectors. This is the market Holley is geared towards because there are more customers. I feel the Z Car Depot is doing a bit of a disservice saying this will work with stock injectors. Sure you can probably hack the input parameters int the system to get a pretty decent fuel system, but to take full advantage of the EZ EFI, you would want to ditch the stock fuel rail and injectors and go with high impedance units. It's why I'm six sigma percent sure I'm going with a Megasquirt kit in my 1980. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) The O2 sensor signal is used by the system to adjust the open-time of the injectors. Impedance will not have an effect on the feedback signal. No offense to you guys but you should study up on how EFI systems use the O2 sensor signal. It's called "closed loop" control. It's still not clear how long people are waiting before they decide something is wrong. You need to let the system stabilize. Efforts to fix things before the system is stable just causes continued instability. Still, both FAST and zcardepot are selling kits with poor instructions and explanation of how things work. I wouldn't buy one for that reason alone. The FAST site is full of hype with very little support. Their forum function doesn't even work. I think that they're just milking the market until they die. http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/#technical-faqs-reference-articles.85 Edited July 31, 2020 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tokuzumi Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 @Ryanotown22 @Shiboh What wire did you guys tap into for the 12V switched power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiboh Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 @tokuzumi I am tapped into the 12v on the ignition coil. I know the manual says not to use the coil for power but it was the only place I could find constant 12v through crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryanotown22 Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I ran power direct from battery to a switch I picked up from the car parts store. Mounted the switch in the center console below the radio. Clean power that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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