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Worn door locks.


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Looks like I have worn door locks.  I've already tried using a larger clip and that fixed the passenger door, but the drivers door is still too sloppy.  I can see where it's worn on the cylinder and it just lets the actuator flop around too much.  Anybody got any suggestions?  This looks cast so I don't think I could weld on it to build it back up.

IMG_20201105_205441426[1].jpg

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2 hours ago, Witchboard said:

Of course!  Have you already tried the larger clips?  I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a couple with a thicker diameter wire than the original.  Fixed the passenger side, but no dice on the driver's.

 

The shaft on my driver's side lock is warn down too far.

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The picture is not that clear.  Can you take more at different angles?   The center section is cast and can not be welded.   The other possible 

fix is to braze the lever (stamped steel) to close the gap and file to fit.  Filing will take awhile so do not braze more than necessary.   This will

work as long as the cast side can take the turning torque.   

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ClassicZCars is always a good resource for these types of OEM restoration/rebuild issues.  Found a couple threads that may help.  One guy swapped his passenger and driver lock barrels; others had suggested repairs depending on the specific issue.  I'm sure there are other discussions on that forum regarding this topic since it's such a common problem for these old cars.

 

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56706-possible-fix-for-worn-out-door-locks/

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35066-78-280z-door-locks-worn-out/

 

Looks like ZCarDepot offers replacement locks; may be other vendors out there as well, like MSA, etc.  Sometimes these new lock barrels can be rekeyed to match your existing key, or you can just live with FOL of having to add a new key to your keyring.  :-)  What year is your car?

 

https://zcardepot.com/products/door-lock-cylinder-set-with-keys-77-78-280z?_pos=3&_sid=9e230f569&_ss=r

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If it is what I think it is, I think the first time my fix was to fill in the hole with jb weld, let it set, then file it down to size. I think devcon steel putty would probably be better since JB still has a bit of flex. In the end the key was just super loose and I couldn't get it rekeyed so I picked up some aftermarket assemblies.

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