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Honda k24 240z

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Hello, so I'm starting a new project. I'm pulling the Sr20det out and swapping in a Honda K24A2 turbo engine into my 1973 240Z. This is a list of the basics:


2006-2008 Honda k24a2 2.4L vtec

Cd009 Nissan 370z transmission 

Efr8474 twinscroll turbo 

Haltech elite 1500 Ecu.


This is my first attempt to do a build log. 

Edited by jessejames
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Looking good! I think the K24 setups in a Z is a great option honestly. Great power with light weight. 

@heyitsrama this specific section of the subframe does not flex a whole bunch under torque. The nearby tie rod mounting box is the thickest steel on a Z. If it does bind, if blame steeper angle on the steering linkage. 
Ask me how I know so much about the subframe 🤣😂. I have rebuilt this whole section of the car in new steel.


you do make a good point though, the whole subframe should be reinforced and/or a roll cage added for rigidity. Looks like this setup will produce at least 300ft-lbs which is where I feel the stock frame starts to flex too much. 

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I will look into reinforcing it further. I have some done. I've got a welded rollbar at the rear, and brace on the front struts. I'm just waiting on the fuel rail, clutch, spacer for dry sump, and few other things.


In terms of power. Similar engine with same turbo was making 600whp. I'm planning on running less. 





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South Bend clutch and new injectors have arrived. The shop is a little swamped with cars, but I should back in very soon. I was hoping to get it done before winter, but I think the new goal is to be road ready before spring. 


Why the dry sump? Just because you can? or does it help with clearance?


I went with the dry sump as the k24 is a very tall engine, and I was concerned about the oil pan hanging out of the bottom of the car.  I thought about trying to make a custom oil pan, but went alittle blingy.


Hopefully I'll have more updates in the next month.

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Sorry for the delay, life gets in the way of project cars. I ordered a custom wiring harness from rywire. I didn't want to mess about wiring. Everything is beautifully labeled. I had to add a spacer to the intake manifold to make the dry sump tank fit. It's a 2.3 gallon tank.



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On 3/16/2023 at 2:09 PM, hwyix said:


What was wrong with the brake kit?



The front Brake caliper brackets included with the kit, would not fit. I had to have a machine shop alter the brackets. I plan on having completely new brackets made once i finish moving. 

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Sorry for the delay. Between moving across the country and trying to finish this project, its been tough. Theres been alot done on the car. There's been some problems that we are still trying to sort out.


We used the Collins K24 to CD009 adapter plate and flywheel. The flywheel bolts they suggested were too short. We end up ordering new bolts from ARP.

We installed the adapter plate and flywheel with a ZSpeed Heavy Duty V2 CSC HD Concentric Clutch Slave Cylinder and a Southbend Street Clutch.  Unfortunately the fingers on the center of the clutch are touching the outer body of the slave cylinder. The stack height is too tall even with the clutch adjusted. We might try to shave down the black bracket to make some space. 


We used a Serial Nine shifter relocator kit and that has worked wonderfully, and placed the shifter in the OEM hole in the transmission tunnel.


We had new piping made for the intercooler and turbo and it turned out beautifully. 


The height of the OEM valve cover is a bit high. I might switch to the Skunk2 version for some extra clearance. 


The Tractuff water plate block off works well, however their alternator relocation bracket does not. The alternator twists under tension with the belt. I've noticed since I purchased the kit, Tractuff has changed their design and has a stronger bracket but they will not offer an exchange or warranty. I'll try to get some pictures of what I mean. 


We started the car and found we had 65 psi of oil pressure at 2000RPM, to we are going to switch to a thinner oil.


I'll update when I can.











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