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OPINIONS ON MY SETUP


280z-racer

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You did not say what the car weighs (w/driver) but lets assume 2,850lbs w/driver. To go 11.95 @ 116 you will need about 350+RWHP. That assumes you can launch the car pretty good and cut 1.90 60' times AND you have that puppy fine-tuned. If you want to dip into the 11s and cannot cut those 60' times, you better have a ton of HP to try and make up on the top-end.

 

IMO, thats pushing it for a non-turbo engine and (I will probably get slammed for saying this) that Volvo I/C is going to be a major detriment. To make that kind of HP you will need to be pushing around 18psi boost or more and you just cannot try to do it with an I/C designed for half that power output. The more boost you run to make that HP, the more restrictive the I/C gets, the more heat you are putting into that non-turbo engine.

 

Do not take my post personal, but if you want to get into the 11s with a turbo, you cannot skimp on the I/C. I still have doubts about 350+RWHP with a non-turbo engine, but a top-quality I/C will sure help you get there safer. Work your way up the HP ladder slowly and once you start making good power you will also need to run octane to protect that engine as it cannot withstand much turbo detonation.

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Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ:

I still have doubts about 350+RWHP with a non-turbo engine, but a top-quality I/C will sure help you get there safer.

If you are talking about the limitations of the cast pistons, then I agree. However, my gut feeling is that the cast turbo pistons aren't really much better. Ring lands are still the weak link.

 

As far as the block itself, I'm running an N42 block and head (ported head, and forged pistons, of course), and have had no block-related problems, FWIW.

 

Ditto on the intercooler.

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Yup, the ring lands are the weak point. The one I have experience with made about 305RWHP (12.32 @ 114 in a 2600LB 240Z) and was punished with about 150+ passes, hard passes with an improperly setup JWT but a big Spearco helped it live longer. BTW, it had a stock P90 head. The switch to SDS and a stock F54 netted another 50hp (11.74 @ 119, 1.82 60') with a couple more psi of boost.

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Guest Ian turbo240

I totally agree on the info in the above posts. I'm running a modified Starion intercooler and it's the weak link in my system. I have done a best of 12.66@113 with a 1.87 60'. I don't think you'll have problems with the block or head. Like Scottie and Tim stated, the pistons are the weak link. With delicate tuning and a good intercooler, I think 11's are possible with the rest of your setup.

 

Ian

 

P.S. I'm on the quest for 11's myself, and I'm gonna try it with the i/c I have. We'll see if it happens!

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shane

 

f54 is the block that came in 79-83 zx (not 100% sure about years) and n42 would be your non-turbo block. i am about to be done with my setup (for right now) which is n42 block from 77z and p90 head from 82 turbo. i just hope that it hoolds until i can get turbo block. rockon.gif

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dang i was close. one more question. will n42/p90 combo with 8-10 pounds of boost max, 3 inch down pipe and exhaust (mandreal beant sp) upgraded ignition, upgraded fuel pump, 240sx tbody and 75 shot of nos (wet kit). lets say that n42 is low milage too. so would this thing hold together and what hp range would it be in.

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Originally posted by Ivan280zt:

dang i was close. one more question. will n42/p90 combo with 8-10 pounds of boost max, 3 inch down pipe and exhaust (mandreal beant sp) upgraded ignition, upgraded fuel pump, 240sx tbody and 75 shot of nos (wet kit). lets say that n42 is low milage too. so would this thing hold together and what hp range would it be in.

I think that'll all depends. Different turbo will flow different amount of air with same amount of boost. I guess you got to put it together and tell us what kind of power you can put out ;) You'll have more HP than me in mt N/A L6 :D
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Z Ya, depends on which formula you use. Many of the ones on the Net do seperate HP calcs for ET and MPH. Since you said "for an 11.99" and did not mention MPH, I assume you did it just for ET. Remember that you can greatly improve your ET w/o adding a single HP by improving the 60' time. However, to greatly improve MPH (unless you have an extremely slow launch) you need to add HP. MPH is the true indicator of HP, so if you are calculating HP, you must factor in MPH.

 

The formula I use factors in ET, MPH and weight w/driver. It might not be the best or most accurate, but it is the only one I use for consistency, especially when comparing HP numbers with other cars.

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