Seppi72 Posted Sunday at 09:18 PM Share Posted Sunday at 09:18 PM There doesn't seem to be an electrical forum on HybridZ so I thought I'd put this in the model-specific one. I am in the process of adding several updated accessories to my original-owner S30. In particular: power windows, Vintage Air A/C system and RetroSound Motor 4 radio with quad speakers. I've already installed Dave Irwin's headlight relay system to take that load off the combo switch. I have a rebuilt 280ZX alternator from MSA to supply power once the Optima red top kicks things off. With all these new accessories, it occurs to me that perhaps I don't want to be chopping into the existing dash harness wires to provide them with power. So I'm thinking about installing positive and negative busbars on the interior firewall that I can hook up to as needed. Is this a wise idea? Has anyone ever done this mod and, if so, what parts did you use and where did you locate them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted Sunday at 11:11 PM Share Posted Sunday at 11:11 PM It can be confusing when talking about technical areas vs car model areas, but we do have the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum here: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/16-ignition-and-electrical/. Yes, I think it's fairly common to add new circuits/etc to these old cars. I've done it to the last couple of my cars to simplify/improve the electrical capabilities over the stock harness. I've always used off-the-shelf breakers, relays, fuse panels, switches; but there are a bunch of pre-built kits that are available through numerous vendors. I like to use marine hardware if I can find it; as it's typically extra beefy and durable. Good luck with it; and please be sure to post your results once completed!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted Sunday at 11:13 PM Share Posted Sunday at 11:13 PM It's not uncommon. I added a terminal post near the battery for a few things. If I had a bunch I'd probably just install an auxiliary fuse box. Otherwise you have a bunch of inline fuses to take care of. There are many out there but a trip to the salvage yard would probably find one that is weatherproof and high quality. Depends on where you want it mounted. Looks like I'm on the same page as jhm, who replied as I was writing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi Posted Monday at 03:25 PM Share Posted Monday at 03:25 PM I've used these.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi Posted Monday at 03:26 PM Share Posted Monday at 03:26 PM Seppi72? what power window stuff / kit did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted yesterday at 12:06 AM Share Posted yesterday at 12:06 AM (edited) Picked this up from local hot rod shop for my 240z SBC 350 project about 13 years ago. Circuits: Electric fan relay Fuel pump Radio and amplifier Power windows Summit Racing/parts store etc probably have this fuse box. Edited yesterday at 12:15 AM by Miles 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seppi72 Posted 13 hours ago Author Share Posted 13 hours ago Luigi: I used a $70 "universal" power window kit that can be obtained on Amazon or eBay. A current Amazon vendor is JDMSPEED. This is quite similar to the SPAL that was marketed some years ago. What I found in my research was that several marketers offer the almost, if not, identical units on these shopping sites. As the units are all made in China - perhaps by the same manufacturer - this kind of makes sense. It's like every corner convenience store selling M&Ms. Earlier this year I started collaborating with Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) to update and expand a thread he created in 2006 on the Classic Zcar Club website www.classiczcars.com). I decided to alter the wiring so that just two switches are used and the controls are mounted on the sides of the center console. The article has kind of stalled out as I went on to do other things on my car but I swear I'll get it done and posted there before year's end. In the meanwhile, here's a photo of the drive unit installed in the left door of my car. The drive unit is on the lower left and the "engagement gear" is on the right. It has plenty of power to work the window mechanism but, my goodness, you absolutely must have the window track alignment perfect or it binds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seppi72 Posted 12 hours ago Author Share Posted 12 hours ago Miles: Nice placement in your engine bay. It looks like you just ran a positive off the battery terminal (?) to your box and all the accessories are using the chassis for the negative side. As most of my accessories (radio, windows and A/C so far) are in the passenger compartment, I was planning to put my box on the passenger side firewall and probably run both positive and negative 10 ga. leads to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted 11 hours ago Share Posted 11 hours ago (edited) Nice placement in your engine bay. It looks like you just ran a positive off the battery terminal (?) to your box and all the accessories are using the chassis for the negative side. It is B+ only. No ground. It connects to the + terminal of the battery. Accessaries draw fused power from the fuse box. Each accessary is grounded to the chassis. Edited 9 hours ago by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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