David K Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 The damper is there to damp those vibrations - like throwing a rubber matt over a ringing bell. I guess that would be like when you get a brake drum turned, they put that big rubber band around it . Boy does that make a diffrence, now I get the picture... Yeah it took me a while too. Im still contemplating the rubber stud idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 What I don't understand is why this is just now being addressed in a manner such as this? I have never broken a Dampner or whatever you want to call it but, obivously several people have in the time line of the L-series engine. What have the other guys done in the past to fix this proublem. I don't remember reading anything about this in my internet searches for all information Z-car related. I'm wondering now that if someone changes the cam and starts to pull the engine to 7000 or so should they also purchase a new oem dampner or maybe the one that Jeff is helping to develop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 I'm wondering now that if someone changes the cam and starts to pull the engine to 7000 or so should they also purchase a new oem dampner or maybe the one that Jeff is helping to develop? I would say yes, it needs to be on the list of things for a new motor.(IMO) Who is Jeff and what`s he got going? Does he have a web site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 As said by Keith and myslef earlier, ITS racers REGULARLY run their engines over 7,000 rpm dozens of times in a 30 minute race. Most of these folks race every month. Stock dampers last in that environment at least two years and often much longer then that. For you street guys, a stock damper specifically for your particular engine with whatever numbers of pulleys required should be fine. If you're concerned, buy a new one or search for the nicest one you can find in a junkyard. Put away the drill bits, rubber plugs, and put the correct part on your car following the instructions in the FSM. Its really that easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 15, 2003 Author Share Posted March 15, 2003 Put away the drill bits, rubber plugs, and put the correct part on your car following the instructions in the FSM. Its really that easy. uh ok. soon as I can find in the FSM where it tells me how to "correctly" put my Tec2 wheel on my danper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 They have distributor trigger wheels that work great. I'm using a distributor trigger from Motec on my 8,000 rpm 3.0L L6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 15, 2003 Author Share Posted March 15, 2003 IF I had a distributor..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 Who is Jeff and what`s he got going? Does he have a web site? jeffp is who I'm refuring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted April 27, 2003 Share Posted April 27, 2003 Just thought I'd dredge this subject up again I'm currently reassembling my engine, and upon inspection it looks like my damper might be starting to seperate - there are some circumferential cracks visible in the rubber - they don't go all the way around (yet), and I have no way of telling just how deep they go. Needless to say, though - it's enough that I don't want to re-use this part any more. So JeffP - is the BHJ part ready for prime time? I checked their web page and didn't find a part referenced for the L-series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted April 27, 2003 Share Posted April 27, 2003 I am thinking I may need one too, and would like to know a ballpark price. I am relegated to a 3 grove one, although I guess I could take the AC out and drop a few pounds. I think mine has begun to spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted May 31, 2003 Author Share Posted May 31, 2003 Just thought I'd dredge this subject up again Well, can I dredge on this abit also?? TimZ, Lockjaw, did you guys ever hear anything on that new damper ?? I'd like to look into this also, just to be sure I don't have to deal with that problem again because of the oem part not holding up... thanks joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 I will send Jeff an email and see what he says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 I also contacted BHJ to see where they were on this. They are in the process of making me a two groove pulley, based on the part they are doing for JeffP, with the addition of a front mounted 60-2 tooth trigger wheel with an orientation similar to mine. Jeff's part had no provision for the trigger wheel. I don't have solid cost info yet, but it's looking like it will be in the $400 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted May 31, 2003 Author Share Posted May 31, 2003 Thats not to bad of a price. I guess it would be wise for me to change the way my wheel is mounted, from the backside, to the front like yours Tim. I think it would just be a matter of making a new bracket that holds the pick up sensor. Please keep me posted on this damper guys. thanks joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 Hey Tim, did they tell you what the normal price is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 Hey Tim, did they tell you what the normal price is? No. I'm guessing it will be in the $400 range - it's very likely that this will be a low volume part for them, so I don't see the price coming down much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Al 260Z Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 ... is that the new OEM part I procured about a year ago had a redesigned bore for attachment to the crank. The original dampeners had a single slip-fit bore, while the new part has a slip fit section for starting the part onto the crank, then an inteference bore section that pretty much has to be forced on by means of tightening the big crank bolt. It will probably require a puller to get it off. The new design should be considerably improved against vibration loosening of the crank bolt. Seems to me a new OEM pulley is fine for street use unless your regularly revving past 6k. My original pulley did just fine for 200k miles, but with stock cam there was never much point revving past 5k. Now with my new cam there's not much point revving past 6k (at least with current intake and exhaust configuration) so I'm not gonna worry about it. Don't even think about a billet pulley, unless you want to experience crank breakage. Later, Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffp Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Few things here, John, if your friends are running a damper that is lasting that long then that is good, but Dave Robello has not had that good of results with the Euro damper, or an OEM damper with his racers he does engines for. Myself, my damper lasted about 7K miles on the car, not to good. I haven't had a problem with the bolt coming lose myself, but I torqued it to 160 foot pounds and used red locktight. I did find a bolt that was longer then the stock bolt, where it came from is the question. I may be one of the bolts NISMO sells, I dont know, but what that did for me was enable me to use a different washer. I also have a volvo and it has a washer that is almost 1/2" thick, bigger in diameter, but a lathe took car of that, and with the longer bolt, I am able to use this washer, and thread the bolt all the way into the crank threads. I think it will work out well, but we will see. I bet ARP could come up with a stud/nut combination that would work excellent, but it will cost alot. Anyway, Brian said he was a week out on the assembly, but I haven't called back to check up on it because I just dont want to hear it will be another two weeks or something like that again. I have been waiting for a long time for this part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Oh boy. I just read through this thread and saw Joel's post about having a concern with cutting the back of a stock damper to facilitate the installation on a pickup wheel. I'd like to get on the"list" of people who want one of these custom dampers. I don't have A/C but I will need to add a 60-2 wheel. Joel and Tim, how are you going to mount the pickup since the wheel will be on the front of the damper? Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffp Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 I spoke to Brian a few weeks ago regarding the trigger wheel option for the damper. We discussed the possibility of doing a rear wheel as opposed to the front mount wheel. For me the concern is in the event that a belt flys off or just dies while the engine is running. The trigger would be right in the path of the belt as it exited the damper and that could really mess up the triggering device. I am just think about the possible problems with the front trigger. You can do the front, and what I would siggest is to make a bracket that first is strong, and second that would house the triggering device, and finally run the wires from the device on the outboard side of the bracket. I was kinda hoping Brian would figure out a rear trigger wheel solution to alleviate that potiential of destroying the triggering device in the event something goes foul with the belts. anyway just something to think about when you start in on a new bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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