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1000 lbs/Tourque, what rear-end (for road racing).


Guest tt350

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Guest tt350

Hey thanks for all that info, Ztard. It really is helpful. Mikelly: First of all, I hate Sport Compact Car (Waaaay to ricey). The car im picturing is a full frame chassis car (looks exactly like a race car from inside) except has power locks, windows, and a very mild stereo set up. Im not planning to put subwoofers or anthing of that crap. Ill probably have a very crude setup for the window and lock switches, but its ok, its just for conveniance. This car will see a LOT of track days, and a lot of street days too.

:D

 

 

I really like the T-Bird idea, and im gonna go look at some today. I also like the idea of cutting out the front clip and floorboards and putting them on the frame.

 

No hard feelings about the SU-27 man, and yes, it would be cool. BUT THAT wont be very good on the track. If someone is attempting that, please feel free to flame him. LOL.

 

I know a guy who is attempting to make a new Lambo Diablo into a jet car. Dont ask me how (I think hes pretty good with this stuff, he has jet boats (real turbofans i mean)).

 

Thanks All.

 

I will be leaving the country in the summer (to try and get more sponsors from big companies I have ties with (family) and to visit some people.)

 

Theres a lot of 1000 hp cars in Saudi Arabia (Im from Palastine, by the way)

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Guest tt350
U can soup the hell out of these' date=' ive heard of a 1100 hp cobra with a hyped up 8.8 rear end if u need more info about it email me [email']mesiroff@cs.com[/email]

 

Chad

 

 

Soup the hell out of what? The rearends or the cobras?

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This may or may not be an appropriate place to make this comment.... but I think that the consensus here is that an incremental approach is preferable.

 

Begin with a stock Z. Replace the suspension bushings and brake pads. Then go to an SCCA club-racing event. Get to the point where you have outgrown the car as a competitive driver. Then consider the first round of upgrades. Maybe a typical Chevy small block, or a Ford, or a turbo L6. But such mods kick you into highly competitive racing categories. So if competitive success is more important than raw performance, consider building an ITS car. Here the path diverges: build a race car to class rules, or build a fast car for personal driving pleasure, regardless of what the race sanctioning bodies mandate. Achieve a solid 300 hp. Install a roll bar, strut tower braces, better brakes, a stronger differential. Then replace the mild small block with a hotter one. Or add turbos, or nitrous, or go with a big block. Reach 500 hp, 600. Perhaps that would be enough. Perhaps the troubles of managing all that power –living with it, not just yearning for it – will attain the point of diminishing returns. But perhaps not. Then keep going up – to 1000 hp, if that’s the next step.

 

When I began my project, I was blessed with a rare opportunity to get professional labor at minimum wage. That’s how I ended up with a tube-framed car set up for a big block. 1000 hp? No, maybe around 400. But even that proved to be too daunting of a step. You may be substantially better prepared than I was – technically, financially, emotionally – but reach too far too fast, and chances are high that something will snap. The last thing that you want is a festering money pit, abandoned in frustration and disgust. Or an ambiguous dream that always stays one step ahead of what's achievable.

 

Isn’t it interesting that rarely do we see posts from guys with 500 hp cars who want 700 hp, or guys with 700 hp cars who want 1000 hp? If you’re that close – if you have done the homework and made the investment to achieve a certain threshold of performance – reaching the next threshold is a logical step. What to do next becomes almost self-evident. Irksome details will still crop up, but the general roadmap is clear.

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Guest tt350

That was very well spoken Micheal, and that is the plan im planning to take. I have stated that the 1000hp level will be acheived in three years, and I wont be using all 1000 hp on the track (turbo engine). But I think Im going to first start out real slow, cuz if I have learned one thing, its that every car is diffrent. Im sure the Z handles way diffrent than my M3, so I probably first want to compete with a mild Z (also, rebuilding the Z to race spec with a full tube (mild engine) will give me a whole lot of knowledge).

 

Thank you very much for that post, and I do plan on following your advice.

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That 8.8" rear end in the Cobra is holding up extremely well. There is a guy by the name of NitrousPete on http://www.modularfords.com who just broke into the 9's with his stock rear. I think the last time he dynoed it was up at 790RWHP and matching torque. He is running an auto tranny, but I know he's got more power after upping the boost of the Kenne Bell blower to 30 psi. Just a thought.

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Sorry dont know what i was thinking, I know of a guy who had a 1100 hp cobra with a 8.8 rear that was tricked out and he raced it at laguna seca at least 200 times with no rear end problems, These 8.8 are just like the ford 9 inch except a little smaller spyder gear but when souped up can handle almost as much power as you can feed it. Good gears, good shafts and a 8.8 will do the trick and do it realiably. And when you narrow the 8.8 [you will have to] That makes it even stronger. Your other option is the c5 vette rear end but its only a dana 36 where as the 8.8 rear end is comprable to a dana 60.

 

Chad

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I agree with Mike Kelly on getting the car you want. I simply personally WANT the Z, not because it's smog exempt for the moment or because it was cheap, I've wanted this car forever.

 

tt350, how about using some of that budget to get a more modern car? Although...Stage 2 on the following link might eat up too much of that budget :shock:

http://www.breathlessperformance.com/products/500-101.asp

 

Owen

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Guest tt350

TO johnc: Yup!

 

Thanks for that link to the TT setup on the corvettes, that will help me out a lot. Trust me man, I love the Z also, and I just dont wanna drive anything else.

 

Im really liking the ford 8.8 by now, and Im seriously considering dropping the AWD concept (all of you are now cheering, I know) lol.

 

I dropped it cuz it just seems to expensive and I have found a lot of cars (road race) with that much power and a RWD setup, and they do fine with enough downforce and skill. AKA Jun Supra (I have that video, MAD)

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If you are doing the tube frame chassis, you may want to look into a Cobra motor. I know they are heavy because of the iron block, but they are made to take serious abuse. They are coming out with a single turbo kit to replace the blower that will make 750HP on pump gas. Up the boost and some race gas, you may be getting there. That's without touching the heads or anything else. Supposedly one of the guys said SVT ran an 800HP Cobra motor for 1000 hours straight to make sure it would live. Maybe one of those beefed up T56s from a Viper (the 10 spline input shaft isn't going to last) with a good clutch. Run that bad boy to a Cobra 8.8" indy. You could easily hit 1000HP with some head porting and more boost. Then turn it back down when it is time to hit the race track. I know the motors are going for 8 to 10 grand at the moment, but that's with the blower I believe. You may be able to get away with the 5.0 cammer crate motor that is coming out with the single turbo. I'm sure the bottom end is as stout on that as on the Cobra. Well, just a few thoughts. I'll see if I can find out anything more from the Cobra forums.

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All this discussion about how easy it is to make 1000hp has gotten out of hand. I giggle when I hear the comments about SupraTTs and other factory engines making 1000hp without any internal mods or just port the heads and turn up the boost. That is just nonsense and those that make the claims in the magazines or on forums are lying. Just think about it. A 3.0L 6-cyl engine making 1000+hp is making as much HP as a stock L28ET in 1 cyl and put another way, .5L!! No factory crank can handle that. Let me clarify that and say no engine available in a production car since engines like the Buick StageII are factory engines that can "easily" handle 1200-1500hp.

 

There was a reference to a 1000hp car that spins the tires at speed just needs more down force. What car could possibly generate more down force than an F1 and even with that downforce, those drivers that do not respect the 750-800hp loses it.

 

A 600hp, 2300lb tube-chassis Z is more in line with what is needed to get the job done in SP. It might not have the ring of 1000hp, but it is realistic, reliable, less costly :roll: and driveable. In the hands of an experienced driver, such a car is still a handful.

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Guest tt350

ummmm, I really dont think that the stock Cobra motor can take over 600 hp. I dont know much about them, but if it dont come with 4340 crankshat and rods, forged everthing, itll blow up in no time.

 

I really dont know squat when it comes to fords, but educate me please :P

 

Anyway, Scottie, thanks for that comment. I think Im going to start to de-tune my ideas. I am really considering an aluminum block LS1, sure its hard to make over 700 hp with that without bustin it open, but the weight saved is worth it on everythign else (brakes, suspension,...).

 

I think the aluminum block is what I really want, and would work best with my goals because of the weight saved. And since a TT kit is already availabe (lingenfelter, OUCH), it will be easier for me to build.

 

But if that Cobra motor is tru, i will look into it (I really doubt it though). I mean, I cant get more than 500-600 hp out of a small block chevy without forging everythin, you know?

 

Whatever, I have pneumonia right now and I think I should stop writing (too many drugs)! DETUNE MY IDEAS! HA. kidding,

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OK, this will be my last post on this topic and it will be an idea for you to look into. It might not sound as exotic as your initial dream, but.....

 

You love the Z and want to road race it. You love turbos and want a lot of HP. Scour the hard-core racing rags and look for someone selling a rolling GT2 chassis that has a good racing record. Next, get an RB26 and the appropriate tranny and start out learning and being one with the car. The Rb26 has 600hp potential w/o much internal work. Trust me, you do not want or need more than that in a well setup GT2 Z-car.

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tt350, if you seriously don't believe me, head on over to http://www.modularfords.com and check it out. Nitrous Pete has the Kenne Bell twin screw blower on his making insane amounts of power, and he makes a ton of passes on one night (not to mention a month). The motor is still going strong. The guys are all over there waiting for the thing to blow, but it just hasn't gone yet. That single turbo kit is showing some promise too, because you won't be able to use that blower for very long in a road race. Heat soak will suck the power right out of that blower, even though it has a liquid aftercooler (or intercooler, not sure.) Dollar for dollar, I'd go for the grand national motor.

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