jaime240z Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 I am wondering what F/R brake proportioning valve everyone is using. Right now my 240z brakes are stock but I plan on using MM rear disc conversion along with 4 piston claipers up front. Will this Wilwood item work?: Valves weigh only 8 ounces, are black anodize finished and have two .25†side mounting holes spaced 1.00†apart. Standard in and out ports are 1/8-27 NPT. Knurled knob with fine thread tuning provides precise pressure adjustment. Used for street rods, pro series racing and off road vehicles. DESCRIPTION PART NO. Knob style proportioning valve 260-2220 Any help would be great. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 I have one of those plumbed into my rear brake line. Haven't gotten the car on the road yet, but it should work well. Get rid of the oem proportioning valve though, and you will need some special fittings, and a flaring tool.. I got mine from Earl's (fittings that is). Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Can you shut off rear brakes with a proportioning valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 Can you shut off rear brakes with a proportioning valve? Not completely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 The Wilwood valve will give up to a 40% reduction in line pressure. I've got one on my car and it works great. Only problem is making the metric/standard crossover somewhere to plumb it in. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 You can see my Tilton mounted in my car, look at the link in my sig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted July 9, 2003 Author Share Posted July 9, 2003 Thanks guys! I wanted to be sure the fitting sizes would work with my 240z but I guess it will take some custom work to plumb it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 jaime, You might want to ck and see if you have made your photo`s "public". Your link to yahoo photo`s is not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted July 9, 2003 Author Share Posted July 9, 2003 Oops! That's right Doug. I've been meaning to do that. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Jaime I went to my local off road vehicle shop (Teegarden Motorsports Specialties) here in Sacramento and bought some stainless steel flex lines and -3 male to 10 mm x 1 to adaptor fittings and then mounted the Wilwood proportioning valve in the passenger side tool box. I then drilled two holes in the back of the tool box near the stock proportioning valve to route the flex lines to the where the stock PV is located. After removing the stock proportioning valve I connected the stainless flex lines to the brake lines where they connected to the stock valve using the metric to standard adaptors I bought at the off road shop. The PV keeps the stock rear brakes from locking up due to the lack of weight in the back end of my son's 240z. My plan was to eventually put toyota calipers and 300zx rotors on the front, but my son is now thinking about selling the car. For now we are just using stock front rotors with KVR pads. The brakes IMO are just average and would benefit more from the toyota/300zx upgrade. The PV does not allow you to completely turn off the rear brakes. Someone else in the forum did the same mount as I did except he used hard lines instead of flex lines. Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted July 10, 2003 Author Share Posted July 10, 2003 Right on! Thanks for the info. I guess my main concern was that this be the right part # for the Z car. But I guess you have to fab. it up so I'm just going to go for it. I also plan on upgrading the stack Z brakes as mine need improvement. Il ike the idea of the flex hoses. It probably made the install a bit easier! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Doug, This is exactly what I have been looking to do next on my car 'cause the rears lock up at the slightest touch now that there is no weight in the rear of my car too. When you plumbed in your pro valve, what did you do with all the connections to your pro valve on the firewall? Did you remove that old stock unit and replumb everything or just replumb the line to the rear brakes? --John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 John, I removed both the stock brake switch and the stock pro valve. When I removed the stock brake switch I used a T fitting to take it`s place. (the T that I used is the same as the T for the rear brake line split on a 74 260) I then ran a line from the master (frt) to the T and connected both the left and right frt brake lines. I had to make a line from the T to the existing right frt brake line. I used a 1" cupling where the right frt line ran thru the (removed) stock pro valve. I ran a line from the master cly (rear) thru the fire wall to the new ajustable pro valve. From the pro valve over the trans tunnel (inside the car) to the right hand side (just behind pass seat) thru the metal right stright into the T (that`s already there) for the rear brakes. I ran the lines inside the car to get them away from all the heat in trans tunnel. This set up works great and having the pro valve right where I can get to it to make ajustment changes on the fly works for me. If you have any ?`s e-mail me (NOT Private Message) so I can answer any ?`s you may have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Thanks Doug. Your reply is perfectly clear about what needs to be done. Looks like I'll be buying a few fittings and a length of brake line as well as the proportioning valve before I tear into it. --John '73 FP 240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted July 10, 2003 Author Share Posted July 10, 2003 I just bought the Wilwood valve! Found it on ebay with free S&H! Here's the link if anyone is interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2934061693&category=1467&rd=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Snagged one! --John '73 FP 240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 I am wondering what F/R brake proportioning valve everyone is using. Any help would be great. Thanks! I do have a complete kit easing the effort/homework required and doing away with custom line requirements, been enjoyed by a number to date. Typically can be installed tidily on the firewall by removing existing prop valve and replumbing in adjustable unit with the fittings I supply. More info on the package below: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=53&PHPSESSID=e520b0d82c9a2230b7e06663ac0601d1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted July 18, 2003 Author Share Posted July 18, 2003 Thanks Ross. Ihad also recently inquired about the rear disc kit for my Z. I will definitely be placing an order in the near future for that! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 With 4 spot calipers on the front a single spot slider calipers on the rear, I have never been able to lock up the rears on a dry road. Even with the Wilwood proportioning valve screwed right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 What all is required to swap the stock prop valve for the wilwood one? How many fittings? Is there a need to mount it anywhere other than the stock location? Id assume just swapping the stocker for this would be a direct swap...that not the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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