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wheel bearing question..


Guest ON3GO

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im puting my hub back together, with all new bearings, now if my memory is correct i didnt see any"caseing" around the bearing, i hope you guys know what i mean i can provide pics if you dont.

i got new bearings and they came in the package with the "caseing" on, and not like how i took them out of my hub, also is there only one seal for the hub?

sorry if these are stupid questions, but i took it apart so long ago and forgot...

 

thanks.

if you need pics let me no ill take them right now..

 

mike

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Guest Want aZ

The casing that you are refering to is the Bearing Race, and yes it needs to be changed along with the bearing. Its not really that difficult, and can be removed with a large drift pin, or rod and a hammer. simply pound it out and then replace the race. Look at how it is seated in the hub, and seat the new race in the same location. It should only add about 10-15 minutes to a bearing job.

 

Damon

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Only one seal and that goes on the inside next to the companion flange. The bearings only go in a specific way and hopefully you either looked at the old ones as you took them out or you have a shop manual handy. The bearing and race basically go in and out as one unit. Use a good synthetic grease (Mobil 1 or Redline CV2) and don't overdo it.

 

Have the outer bearing pressed over the stub axle and carefully tap the inner one into the hub using a brass drift and hammer. Tap the seal in place too. Put a little grease on the inside and outside of the spacer and slide it over the stub axle against the outer bearing. If there are any thin copper spacers that came out of the hub, they usually go between the spacer and the inner bearing. Insert the stub axle in the housing being careful not to damage the seal.

 

Slide the companion flange onto the greased end of the stub axle, slip on the big washer, carefully tighten down the NEW stub axle nut while checking how the outer bearing is seating in the hub, and then torque to spec.

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hmm.. thanks guys, i understand ya but i guess ill go searching for a picture diagram just to be 100% sure, but i understand what John and you guys said.

i dont remember any copper spacers hmm..

 

thanks

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hmm.. thanks guys' date=' i understand ya but i guess ill go searching for a picture diagram just to be 100% sure, but i understand what John and you guys said.

i dont remember any copper spacers hmm..

 

thanks[/quote']

 

I'm not sure if you said you were doing front or rear. I think WantaZ was assuming front and JohnC was talking about the rear.

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The old oil seal can be used as a buffer when putting the new one in. Sit the new seal in place, put the old seal on top of it and gently tap the old seal so that it pushes the new one into place. Or, even better, you can put a small piece of wood on top of the old seal and tap that.

 

Make sure that the new seal goes in straight. Tapping around the circumference in varying places helps.

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Thanks John, I'm doing the rear and was trying to decide if I should press the outer bearing on to the axle stub or press it in to the housing. Thanks to you the decision is made and I can ponder over other issues :D. It always amazes me how the answer will turn up on this site just when you need it, but then again I guess the search function does skew the odds a little :).

 

- Joe

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Before you remove the front races check for "race rotation". The races are a press fit but sometimes they loosen up and will turn in the hub. Once this occurs the hub is ruined and will need replacement.

 

New races will not cure this as the races are much harder than the hub so the wear occurs in the hub.

 

I have changed over 50 front wheel bearings in Z cars and I have seen this happen in Z hubs.

 

A trick I use when replacing bearing races is to use the old races to install the new ones. Just take the old races to your bench grinder and remove a few thousands from the outside edge so it is a slip fit into the hub. Place this old race on top of the new one and hammer tap on the old race, thus avoiding damage to the new race.

 

Don't forget to install the inner seal. :wink:

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  • 6 years later...

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