BillZ260 Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Not the end of the world but I need some help getting the nut that torques down on the top end of the strut insert. The "D" shape is wallowed out in the rubber strut top piece. I have tried the RAG 'n' Vise grips angle which allowed me to get the nut all the way on but I can NOT torque the nut anywhere near 90lbs that tokico suggests. As for the lowered springs, there is about 1 to 1.5" of slop, the spring freely moves about, with the strut assembly all tightened up but not yet in the car. SHould i worry about this, or is all ok and I just need to make sure the spring and the cups that the spring sits in are all alinged. Any help is appretiated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Try a couple of vice grips in rags or better yet some high density rubber, make the adjustment so that you can't squeeze it by hand then put the ends of the vice grips into a vice. You wont hurt the shaft as it is hardend metal. That should do it. Heres a better idea though.... Inpect the nut you are trying to put on. It more than likely has been damaged and is the problem. Sometimes when a nut is taken off to abruptly ( not walking it back and forth) it F's up the threads. Youmay have also damaged the threads on the strut as a result of installing a damaged nut. Take a look at those. Get a new nut and if it does not thread on easily, determine the size and pitch of the threads on the strut and get a die that size from the hardware store. Most good places sell individual dies. Run it down the threads of the strut. That should be it. Now you will not only be able to torque to spec, but you will actually be able to take it apart in the futer if you need to. Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 1, 2003 Author Share Posted December 1, 2003 The nut is new, it came with the new strut insert. It is a lock nut but not with the nylon threads it has three pinch spots on the top thread. It is snugged all the way down but I just can't get it torqued. I will try multiple clampings. All the threads are fine. Any thoughts on the spring being short? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 THe springs being short is normal for shorter springs. When the weight of the car is resting on it, it will be fine...as long as you don't launch the car airborne Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 1, 2003 Author Share Posted December 1, 2003 So if I ever do get airborne, in say... a high speed chace going through San Fran, just have a jack handy and reposition the springs, when I am done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Us an impact gun. Vice grips on the shaft can and often do damage the shaft. Vice grips are hardened also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 1, 2003 Author Share Posted December 1, 2003 Can you adjust the torque on those? I don't have one, but I am sure I could find one to borrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Most have some type of coarse adjustment but it doesn't tell you what the torque number is. Try and find one that goes to only 250 ft. lbs. and then adjust it to the halfway point. When tighteneing the nut down let the gun hammer only twice and I'll bet you'll be pretty close to the torque spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 CAREFUL if you don't know the impact gun. A friend of mine pulled the top of one Illumina right off with an impact gun. I always put the nuts on with an impact too, but you need to have some familiarity with the gun you are using. If you've got the Illuminas, remove the adjusters from the top of the strut before you put the nuts on or take them off. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 1, 2003 Author Share Posted December 1, 2003 Don't worry, I plan on being VERY careful. Tonight I will try the std torque wrench again with a couple of new strap wrenches. Dunno if they will get me to 90 Ft/Lbs but worth a shot. I can prepair the ground piston with some rubbing alcohol or something and re lube later. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 I'd use the impact, just be careful. I just brought up that example because you can screw it up. Any attempt to hold the strut by the shaft is more dangerous than the impact gun, IMO. It seems to me that you would be much more likely to scratch the shaft, which will tear the seal and ruin the shock. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Share Posted December 2, 2003 Well the rubber strap wrenches did NOT work. I don't know if there was still oil residue on the shaft of the strut or what but it slipped. I will try the impact wrench, take my time, and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 You need to replace the strut isolator with one that still has a D shaped hole. MSA sells used ones mail order. IMO doing anything else is unsafe. When I bought my Z it had a slight clumping noise in the front end. I figured it was a loose ball joint because that is exactly what it sounded like. I went over the front end top to bottom and couldn't find anything wrong. It wasn't until two years later when I decided to up upgrade the struts that I found someone had done exactly what you are trying to do. The D shaped hole had worn into an O shaped hole. This allowed the strut to wobble around ever so slightly. The scary thing is this movement had worn over half way through the strut rod!! I still can't believe the rod never broke on me. If you decided to ghetto rig it by overtightening the bolt, just make sure you pull the strut every year of so to ensure no wear on this suspension critical part. That one nut is the only thing holding one whole corner of the suspension on your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 You need to replace the strut isolator with one that still has a D shaped hole. MSA sells used ones mail order. IMO doing anything else is unsafe. Mebbie so. But if you have a monoball on the strut top, like those that come on camber plates, you won't have a D hole. Some big vice grips to clamp the top of the strut piston and an impact is the best your going to do. Oh and when the nut gets tight and impact driver spins the piston and the vice grips, watch your fingers, it hurts like a sumabitch to get your finger squished up in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Share Posted December 2, 2003 Well maybe this is the bump I need to go ahead and buy the camber plates... Will see how this all works out. No hurries. Got to finish my driver side floorpan and frame rail this weekend, then finish up the suspension cleaning, painting, re-assembly. Haveing lots of fun, and I havn't torn up anything expensive...yet.... EDIT... The new Strut Isolators are $43 per, so should I just go with MSA's street camber adjustment set up, has anyone got any input on those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 4, 2003 Author Share Posted December 4, 2003 Hit the top nut with the impact on it's lowest setting and noticed the the nut had tightened up againt the isolator, so I put my strap wrench on that a got it very tight but not quite up to 90 lbs before the strap broke! I went ahead and put it on the car and will see what I can get it to when the car is back on the ground. I re-inspected the wallowed hole and it is only just bad enouht to let the strut piston spin. To be continued... On another note, got tommorrow off and I will, hopfully, finish the driver side floorpan and frame rails. Passenger side turned out pretty decent. Will post picks soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 8, 2003 Author Share Posted December 8, 2003 Got both strut assemblies and torqed on this weekend. Everything looks great and went together fairly easy. (I put the new bushings on the driver side control arm on backwards at first, took me a while to realize it, but once corrected, everything went smooooth.) Got the bolts torqed and all should be well I also got the driver side floors and frame rail welded in and primered, will try to post fair pics tommorow. So now it is on to the rear suspension, any helpful hints before I start into the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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