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auxilary

Wankel's in the car now

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thanks for reminding me. I suppose that would be an excuse for a teardown/rebuild with a street port and 3mm units, right? I could also take out the restrictive RE exhaust sleeves, and get a 1.00 exhaust a/r instead of .84 I chose for midrange power :)

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Hrm, not sure about that 1.0 a/r. would be that much sweeter on top side, but think about where you live... now imagine having to drive up SF hills (if you live in sf that is) without the little torque you had down low.... fear! 8) then again you could go for the best of both worlds and find an old turbonetics VATN equipped unit.... that'll do nicely, but good luck findind someone who will part with one :?

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PICT0009.sized.jpg

Final passenger side motormount

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Final driver side motormount

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You can see the prototype exhaust manifold I'm making on the top. It's a nuissance when I only have about 6" of space to work with, and this thing is 3" OD.

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Engine cleaned, new seals in place, replaced oil chain, hammerred out the dented oilpan, and stripped the engine bay for repaint. THis is the final location, frame rails have been reinforced and sleeved. The only time this motor will come out is when it's time to paint the engine bay.

 

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fuel cell complete. Thanks 73botiz for mounts and fuel cell box!

 

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Shifter position.

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Guest exlex
mazda never put the 4 rotor in production. mazda repu (rotary engined pick ups) had a 2 rotor motor. 3 rotor exists only in 98+ mazda cosmo.

 

I know noone likes an smartass but... (especially from a user thats a newbie on the forum :D )

 

The Eunos (mazda) Cosmo was sold in Japan between -90 to -96 when it got discontinued. Both the 2rotor (13b twinturbo) and the 3rotor (20b twinturbo) was available for all yearmodels. So it is possible to get a 20b engine from early 90's

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Guest hf240z

hi,

i am wondering if you have picture on the transmission mounting and more on the engine mounting on how it looks right now.

 

 

secured, at least. big thanks to my friend rob, and especially jon (jumbo240ez) for making the trek out to help out with welding. Motor's in the car, not as far back as most would expect though. These mounts still need some work, but they are the exact layout of where the motor needs to be, so I can start working around everything else now (turbo, piping, exhaust, etc)

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It's a sequential/series setup. there's one small and one larger turbo. Exhaust port in between them. Until 4k rpm, smaller turbo builds boost (there's actually not a lot of lag, it starts spooling ~1500-2000rpm) to max of 10psi. At 4k, ECU drops the boost to 8psi, turns on the bigger turbo, both run at 8psi for a short time, and then the smaller turbo is turned off and the bigger turbo takes over past 4k rpm.

 

I couldn't use them because they won't clear the frame rail. So I have a t04s :)

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or, you could just call up a couple of australian companies that make custom 4 rotor eccentric shafts. rotaries stack together like a sandwich. all housings are the same in the middle

 

Gee Aux, with the $3K you just picked up, you could be the first on the planet with a 4 rotor Z :D C'mon you know you want to. :) Engine management might be an issue though :?

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Pity it would be one heck of a monster if you did it, and nobody would guess what's in it by the exhaust note :D

 

I tried to lookup the cost but couldn't find a place that makes the custom eccentric shafts. Of course I didn't look too long, until the 30th DSL remains unavailable for my home and I can't stand dialup for more then an hour at a time :(

 

On a side note, I wonder if anyone's been crazy enough to try a 6 rotor by combining two 20B's :shock: I see plenty of them on ebay and at various import sites, so I'm sure someones tried it......

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not sure if it's been posted... but...

 

1)what rods did you use for the welding? or is it a flux-core mig. if they're rods i'd recomment a 6010 or 6011 followed by a 7018. also you might want to go thicker on the mounts, it kind of looks flimsy.

 

2)port/polish/knife-edge the throttle body. you'll get noticeably more throttle response. (might want to knife edge the butterflies as well). also removing the secondary set of butterflies/rod and block off the coolant passages will help greatly. forgot to add, remove the "pots" as well, it'll help with deceleration, unless you want the whole warm-up process. search "TB mod" on the rx7 forums and you'll find out what i'm talking about.

 

nice swap!

steven m.

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