welders

[grumpyvette]

First I’d like to say I’m not an EXPERT at welding but have done quite a bit over the years.

Now to answer some basic questions. Here is some info from a different site you might want to know!

 

I'll try to explain some of the basics for you as best I can.

http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/tigbasic1.htm

 

TIG - (Tungsten Inert Gas Welding)Basically resembles oxy-acetylene welding (torch) but you use a controlled electric arc as the flame/head source and feed in the weld wire or rod separate from the arc.

This process is the toughest to learn. The electrode is composed of Tungsten and current flows through it. The current is controlled by a foot pedal, hand switch or fixed current on the machine itself.

 

I am learning TIG using a foot pedal The more you press down on the pedal, the more amps you get. Once you get enough current flowing to get an appropriate sized weld pool, you start dabbing filler metal into the puddle as you move the electrode further down the work piece. TIG allows you a great amount of control because you regulate how much current the electrode gets and how much filler metal the weld pool gets. This process is very slow compared to the other types welding.

 

MIG - (Metal Inert Gas) MIG is basically a wire that has current running thru it, that is fed constantly into the weld area. It melts both the metal and itself as its consumed/melted by the arc.

 

http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Mig+Welding

 

MIG is the easiest type of welding. A feed gun is used to feed metal wire from a spool into the weld pool. Current and wire feed is usually switched on and off by means of a trigger on the gun. A dial on the MIG machine usually controls the amps and you cannot adjust current while welding. With some machines you are able to use a foot pedal to control Amps while welding.

 

Arc Welding

These are the cheap buzz box welders we usually start with. They use an arc thru the weld rod somewhat similar to MIG but without the gas shielding. They have flux on the rods that produce shielding as it burns, to help the weld quality.

Arc welding is mostly used in industrial applications. An electrode is used to strike an arc, then the electrode melts away to deposit metal into the weld pool. The electrode is coated with a variety of different materials, which are used to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated.

 

TIG and non-flux-cored MIG both use a variety of different shielding gases to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated depending on what metal is being welding.

 

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/82101/

 

http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint153.htm

 

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/tools/2001/3/welding_basics/

 

the most comon mistake I see is guys buying a cheap underpowered welder, the wrong type of welder or not understanding how to use the welder they buy, many colleges and trade schools have classes on welding open cheaply to the public, and are well worth the time and expence to attend them ....and you damn sure need a self darkening helmet YOUR EYESIGHT IS WORTH FAR MORE THAN THE $200 they cost on EBAY

[preith]

Thanks for the info. I've been considering buying a Lincoln Squarewave TIG welder lately, but your comments scared me away just a bit. I currently own a Lincoln SP125 MIG machine, which I am extremely happy with, as well as an OA setup. Being fairly proficient with both of these, how much more skillset do you think would be required to operate a TIG?

[johnc]

Most folks can "operate" a TIG welder and lay down a reasonable bead on steel with about 15 minutes of instruction and a couple hours practice. That's an in-position butt-weld on a welding table. Where it gets more difficult is when you're welding out of position, tubing, fillets, aluminum, stainless steel, or trying to solve problems with your welding.

 

TIG requires more practice because you're using both hands and one foot independent of each other to control the weld. Its like learning how to ride a bike, it takes some time but once you get the hang of it you've learned a skill that will stay with you the rest of your life.

 

Don't be cared of it.

 

BTW... for 99.99% of the automotive type welding a good MIG welder with a spool gun for AL is fine.

[grumpyvette]

mig handles most steel welds just fine, I find TIG is a better quality and better looking and easier to control weld ONCE you get used to the equipment, TIG is easier to adapt to aluminum and stainless welding too!BTW they make TIG welders with torch controls not just foot controls also, but the foot control is far more comon

if money was not the big factor TIG is WHAT I would choose,but JOHNC is correct 90% of your steel welding MIG handles just fine!

remember

need a self darkening helmet YOUR EYESIGHT IS WORTH FAR MORE THAN THE $200 they cost on EBAY

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3802110153&category=34098

[gramercyjam]

Grumpy, why do you say a $200 automatic helmet is necessary? Sure, nice to have, but necessary? Did welders all go blind before the advent of electronic helmets?

[grumpyvette]

Ive talked with many older guys that are in the welding trade, theres damn few that will not tell you that their eyesight has been harmed over the years from arc weld flash, if your honest about it you know theres lots of times that you need to possition the tools and start an arc then flip the helmet down when using a standard helmet, now you can use a non-auto darking helmet, I did for years, and yeah they work but since I purchased a auto helmet I can,t tell you what an improvement its been.

with todays prices its just not worth the risk,

 

http://www.afscme.org/health/faq-weld.htm

"Visible Light, and Ultraviolet and Infrared Radiation

 

The intense light associated with arc welding can cause damage to the retina of the eye, while infrared radiation may damage the cornea and result in the formation of cataracts.

 

Invisible ultraviolet light (UV) from the arc can cause "arc eye" or "welder's flash" after even a brief exposure (less than one minute). The symptoms of arc eye usually occur many hours after exposure to UV light, and include a feeling of sand or grit in the eye, blurred vision, intense pain, tearing, burning, and headache.

 

The arc can reflect off surrounding materials and burn co-workers who work nearby. About half of welder's flash injuries occur in co-workers who are not welding. Welders and cutters who continually work around ultraviolet radiation without proper protection can suffer permanent eye damage.

 

Exposure to ultraviolet light can also cause skin burns similar to sunburn, and increase the welder's risk of skin cancer"

 

Welding

Exposure to welding light causes severe burns to the eye and surrounding tissue --“welder’s flash.â€

Lens for welding light protection must be marked with the “Shade Number†(1.5-14, 14 = darkest).

Protect the eyes even when the helmet is lifted up.

Protect the welder, welder’s helper, and bystanders.

 

Use the darkest shade possible

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Torch soldering #1.5-3

 

Torch brazing/cutting #3-6

 

Gas welding #4-8

 

Electric arc welding #10-14

[johnc]

Just watch Monster Garage, American Chopper, American Hot Rod, or any other fab show and you'll see dozens of examples of what not to do. Spend the money on a good auto darkening helmet.

[MikeK280z]

For additional eye protection, the few professional welders that I know wear black or dark colored shirts to minimize reflection under the helmet. Over the length of a career, every little bit helps.

[gramercyjam]

Ive talked with many older guys that are in the welding trade' date=' theres damn few that will not tell you that their eyesight has been harmed over the years from arc weld flash, [b']if your honest about it you know theres lots of times that you need to possition the tools and start an arc then flip the helmet down when using a standard helmet, [/b] now you can use a non-auto darking helmet, I did for years, and yeah they work but since I purchased a auto helmet I can,t tell you what an improvement its been.

with todays prices its just not worth the risk,

 

 

Roger that. Most of the time, when I'm welding on the car, there isn't even room to flip the helmet down, or even wear a helmet in some cases. My vision is pretty bad (nearsighted, astigmatic, old eyes), so I need to be a certain distance see the pool to see it. Not too far, not to close. What I'd really like to have is a leather facemask with flip up goggles that are autodarkening and with adjustable shade for working in close quarters. 8)

[preith]

Just watch Monster Garage, American Chopper, American Hot Rod, or any other fab show and you'll see dozens of examples of what not to do.

 

Amen, I was very surprised to see all of them not using an auto darkner, especially since they've come down in price quite a bit. They are a bunch of knobs, but I'll cut them a little slack on Monster Garage, just because of the time limit. Watching them makes me realize I don't give myself enough credit sometimes.

 

I realize MIG's are adaquate for steel, but me being the consumate perfectionist...gotta get a TIG. There's nothing like a nice TIG weld. Plus having been dabling more in other materials like AL and SS, its almost a must.

[datsunlover]

For sure the auto shade is the way to go. I spent all last summer and this past winter welding up my car with a flip down, and it sucks. I statred using my boss's auto shade a few months ago and WOW what a difference! So easy on the eyes! Only thing to watch for is some times (like my boss's) they will not switch shades. Something about using solar energy to charge them... if you set it down on a table on the face/shade, the next time you use it it will not switch and you get that 'not so nice' flash in your eyes.

[labrat]

I just bought my first welder, and have never really welded before. I went to wal-mart and bought a cheap little campbell-hausfeld stick welder for $79.00. I got it home and couldn't wait to play with it, so, in shorts and a t-shirt, I started practicing running "a bead or two" across an old flexplate with broken ringgear teeth.

 

Two hours and two boxes of rods later, I was literally laying welds on top of welds. And it claimed to be only 20% duty cycle.... All the while protecting my eyes with the little "masquerade" style lens you hold up in your free hand (Included in said $79.00 kit).

 

As I was squatting over the work laying on the floor, my "sunburn" extended quite far towards parts better left unmentioned. My forearm on my left hand was burnt pretty good, too.

 

First time I ever sunburnt the bottoms of my legs, but not the top.

[dot]

Hey grumpyvette:

I had been putting off purchasing an automatic shield because I had read some time back that the time it took for the switch to turn on was not fast enough to save the eyes. The author of the article had suggested closing the eyes momentarily to avoid flash burn. I was wondering if switch time was now faster?

[Tim240z]

Glen,

My helmet switches in 0.0001 of a second or so, but I have gotten in the habit of shutting my eyes (more like blinking) just as the flash is about to be made.

And for you guys out there without a autoshade helmet:

BUY ONE NOW!!! Please take the advise of someone who has been there, done that. I really wish I had broken down and bought one when I first started the project. You will be very glad you did!!!

Tim

[A. G. Olphart]

Switching time is brand dependent... I tried some "put it in your standard helmet" battery powered inserts at a welding show, and they popped me every time. I told the salesman they were crap and went online.

 

I bought a big screen (Jackson Nextgen) battery powered with a solar assist helmet, and it is the nicest tool I've bought since my MIG.

It has UV and infrared protection even before darkening. The only thing that could be better is the clear phase, which is a little dark unless the area is well lit.

 

If you weld and don't have one of these things, give yourself a present. (You'll love yourself for it).

[johnc]

I sometimes have problems with my Speedglas 9000Xi when welding at very low TIG amperages (under 30) on stainless. It tends to flip back to non-darkened, but that's still a shade 5 and you eyes are well protected at that low of a welding level. Most auto darkening helmets are at least shade 3 when not darkened and that provides protection for that instant before the lens darkens.

[Pop N Wood]

I have a el-cheapo auto darkening helmet from Harbor Freight.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47277

 

A good budget helmet. My only complaint is the quality of the headband is such that I can see it breaking before too long. The electronics are fine.

 

Having said that, a lot of the old timers don't like the autodarkening lenses. My brother preferrs flipping his head. Something about 30+ years of welding tank trucks. And I have to take exception to the notion that an auto darkening set is somehow safer to use. It is simply more convenient.

 

You also need to be concerned about reflections causing sunburn on your backside. A welding hat or do rag is also helpful.

 

Finally, people always seem to overlook a good oxy-acetelyne torch. If you can only afford a single welder, then the torch should be the first thing you buy. A torch will weld mild steel, sheet aluminum and chrome moly. It will braze stainless steel. You can do a lot of other things with a torch, like annealing aluminum, cutting off stuck bolts, and bending metal. It is also much quicker to use when you want to make one or two small welds without the trial an error of setting up the MIG. I also find it easier to balance the weld pool when trying to weld a thin piece of steel to a thicker piece. It also doesn't require a 30 amp 220 volt outlet (like all good welders do) and is completely portable.

 

And the up side is if you get good at running a bead with a torch, then you will take to TIG welding like a duck to water.

 

But everybody wants that Monster Garage/American Chopper and even HGTV look of striking an arc.

[EvilRufusKay]

Thanks for the link to the helmet. I am about to order my welder and was looking for a helmet that would not break the bank. I have a buddy who is a proffessional welder. I watched him once until then I thought his natural shade was red (his face) He uses a flip down and when he is just spot welding, he sets up , closes his eyes and turns his head!!! So his face is basically burnt just from the 20 to 30 spot welds a day that he does!!

[Jay1970Z]

My dad just picked up that same cheapo model from Harbor Freight. Really not a bad deal for the price, works fine. I think its definitely worth the investment. Not only will it save your eyes but my welds improved also. I could see what I was doing better with the old flip down helmet every time I'd get in position, then flip down the lid I'd move my hands and find out I was an inch or two out of position. With the self-darkening I don't have that problem anymore.

[SHO-Z]

I welded pipe for 20 years on everything from commercial building to Nuclear Power Plants. Welding is like everything else it takes patience and practice. I use an old Huntsman hood and now have to have a cheater lense in it. Yea my eyes are not what they used to be, in fact have been out of the trade for 12 years now. If you buy a hood get one that is comfortable and fits correctly and forget the price, you only have on set of eyes. I use the Huntsman because it was light, narrow, has the click type drop mechanism and fits right. Just bought a Lincoln 135 T and am thinking buying and auto lense.

 

Mig machines work neat on body panels and etc, used a cheap one on the convertible Z I built and could cover long seam in no time. But would never do that again with a cheap machine. Fought it constantly, it would run great then spit and spurt and go back and weld again.

 

Tig welding is great on tubing and stainless. You can always wash over a weld to fix any flaws in the cap to make it look great. On tubing if you learn to walk the cup, you can really put on a slick weld. You do not need a foot petal unless you are really doing something delicate. Welded stainless steel pipe all day without one.