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rb26 vs. l28


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Ok, so the rb26det has much more power potental than the l28et, but why? You can upgrade the internals of the l28et to handle the power. Is there a magical rod-stroke-bore combo we just can't achive with the l28? Or do the haeds just suck that bad? Still tring to learn more about these things. Thanks

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Beat to death, but to summarize:

the head bolt clamping pattern on an RB engine is far better than the setup on an L28. They hold the pressure in better, without the head lifting.

The L28 does not have optimal headbolt placement, the RB is far better in that respect.

 

Anything else is just superficial. The L28 should easily support 800HP on the non-crossflow head, and if you could pick up an LY, probably another 100HP.

 

Then the heads start stretching the headbolts and lifting...

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Beat to death' date=' but to summarize:

the head bolt clamping pattern on an RB engine is far better than the setup on an L28. They hold the pressure in better, without the head lifting.

The L28 does not have optimal headbolt placement, the RB is far better in that respect. [/quote']

 

JoelS just purchased a torque plate for his RB26 and he said the holes exactly match the L28 :? So, he was able to place the L28 head gasket onto the RB26 block:roll:

I will ask him again to verify this :?:

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It just seemed unlikely that you could get about double the hp by having a different head desgin. I've heard that the l28 heads aren't that great but wow.

 

And it does sound like the bolt & cylinder holes line up on the two engines. (still reading the archives )

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So you're telling me the bolt pattern is the same?! What about the bore spacing? Search isn't working or I'd check, but it sounds like with drilling and tapping the head can be made to fit? If the oiling and water passages line up you could always drill and tap for external oiling and cooling. hmmmmm.....

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the L28 has aluminum block/head' date=' which is lighter, but not as strong as iron under high boost.

[/quote']

 

You've got to be kidding... right?.... :D

 

 

 

The bolt pattern/ bore spacing may be the same, but thats the only thing in common.

 

The L6 headgasket set on top of a RB block will show you what I mean...

Virtully no water/ oil passages line up, so forget about putting a RB head on a L6 block... :(

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You've got to be kidding... right?....

 

 

 

The bolt pattern/ bore spacing may be the same, but thats the only thing in common.

 

The L6 headgasket set on top of a RB block will show you what I mean...

Virtully no water/ oil passages line up, so forget about putting a RB head on a L6 block...

 

So the spacing IS the same! It can be done then, but the head will have to be drilled and tapped for external provisions. In the best case you need to make a 'water manifold' for each side of the head so you feed it evenly and have more even tamps, I'd recommend feeding from the exhaust side as it will help with more even temps. It can be done, and HAS been done with other engines/heads. I'm amazed with all the knowledge here that noone has done it to the L block... Take the Ford 2.3L lima block. The guys over at turboford.org took a volvo 16v head that ONLY has the bolt pattern right, bore spacing is a little off and oil/water holes DON'T match, and a couple of them did it anyway by tapping the head and using external oil feed from a tee after the filter. If they can do it, so can we! all you need to figure out is how to fit a belt to the contraption. OF course, I'M certainly not going to be the first to try it :D

 

Oh yeah, you can see how the ford one was done here --> http://www.4bangerturbo.com/volvodohc.htm should give you an idea of whats involved. I imagine at least SOME of the coolant/oil holes match up, but as I don't have the heads, I can't be sure...

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the L28 has aluminum block/head' date=' which is lighter, but not as strong as iron under high boost.

[/quote']

 

You've got to be kidding... right?.... :D

 

 

 

 

BTW, I was just pokein fun at the L6 alum block/head statement.... :D

(No insult ment)

 

No worries poking fun, but lets be a little more certain about our facts before we go giving someone advice with facts that are way off... This is the type of statement I'd expect on many other bulitin boards, but not here! 8)

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the L28 has aluminum block/head' date=' which is lighter, but not as strong as iron under high boost.

[/quote']

 

You've got to be kidding... right?.... :D

 

 

 

 

BTW, I was just pokein fun at the L6 alum block/head statement.... :D

(No insult ment)

 

No worries poking fun, but lets be a little more certain about our facts before we go giving someone advice with facts that are way off... This is the type of statement I'd expect on many other bulitin boards, but not here! 8)

 

(scratching my head) who exactly are you telling to get thier facts strait?

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Guest porschephile

The rb26 internals are much more durable for making larger amounts of power than an l28et. From what I understand, after about 350-400hp, you really need to use better bearings, head gasket, etc in an l28et. You can normally take stock rb26's to 500+ without opening them up. A metal head gasket is a good idea to do of course, however the internals are good for 600+ hp. There are many people who have pushed past 600hp with stock internals, however how long they last is anyone's guess. Although, Sean Morris as well as some other people have a number of cars pushing past the 600 mark that have lasted a long time so who knows. Either way, it isn't just the 26's head but the whole engine itself is built stronger and more durable.

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