mas28O Posted June 6, 2004 Share Posted June 6, 2004 Just got back from the track in Sacramento raceway. We had 2 Ls1 240z cars out there. Before the track I put in a larger cam in hopes of better times. I took it to the dyno and made 405rwhp but my torque was low. The low torque was not good at the track at all, looks like I need to put in the old cam. I went 11.5 @ 119 1.6 60' Johns 2001 ls1/t56 240z 1.877 60' 7.9 @92.4mph 12.199 @ 117 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted June 6, 2004 Share Posted June 6, 2004 Wow Mike, It's a good thing those LS1s are easy on cam changes!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted June 6, 2004 Share Posted June 6, 2004 What type of converter are you running? Big cammed LS1's need alot of convertor, like 4000 or 4400 if you can get traction. What cam's are you using? What type of springs and retainers? What were the torque numbers and can you post the chart? Did you tune it while you were at the dyno? What are the pre-programed shift points? I got lots of questions, sorry. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted June 6, 2004 Share Posted June 6, 2004 Mike, Still not bad numbers. I bet you will hit the 10's with the old cam and some more tuning. Is John's motor stock other then the headers and the air intake? Any videos of the runs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted June 6, 2004 Author Share Posted June 6, 2004 David, Johns Ls1 is all stock. Just good headers and intake. Ls1 run good stock, he has the 01 motor so they come with the better heads and intake. Dale, My old cam is a MTI C2 224 224 .581 .581 112 The new cam is a X1 230 227 .591 .571 114 I am running a Vigilante 2800 rpm stall torque converter, I thought that I would be ok with a light car. I am using Manley 221423-16 valve springs for stock head applications Manley 23632-16 titanium valve spring retainers for Manley 221423-16 springs My max torque was 350lb with the old cam I had too much low end so I wanted to put a cam in with more top end. Looks like it did not work for me. I used LS1 edit to tune it on the dyno. The good news is that it only takes 1 hour to change the cam back to the old one. I am shifting @ 6600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted June 6, 2004 Share Posted June 6, 2004 Yea, you are giving up about 40 hp up top and loosing some low end torque using the stock 241 heads so going to a smaller cam is a good idea IMHO. But just for kicks here a thread to read. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173784&highlight=X1+Converter Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 6, 2004 Share Posted June 6, 2004 Mike, Funny how that stuff happens, happens to me all the time. Just the right combo takes some work. Your hauling butt on the old combo for sure. I am looking at a Vigilante 3500 for my 383. Hoping for 10's in the fall. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 Zfan---I had to find out the hard way but this is how you find out what works. With my old cam I had more power than I could use, looks like it will be time for some better tires. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 David' date=' Johns Ls1 is all stock. Just good headers and intake. Ls1 run good stock, he has the 01 motor so they come with the better heads and intake. The good news is that it only takes 1 hour to change the cam back to the old one. [/quote'] Only an hour to change the cam. That's pretty qwik. John's car ran 12.1 with the 6 speed and a stock motor! Wow, I know I will be happy with my LS1 and the auto. What tires did he run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Hope you guys have driveshaft & half-shaft loops. You're getting to where you may be needing them. Running CV's or U-joints on the half-shafts? Better tires are going to challenge the integrity of either one. Bottom line, though - excellent numbers - better than the Z06 in either case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 Phantom, both cars have drive shaft loops. Both cars have the r230 swap in them with cv's. Johns car is going to have the cam installed this week. LS1 cam swap. The nice thing about the LS1 when doing the cam swap is, You do not have to pull off the intake,or the lifters. Just spin the cam 3 times and the lifters will stay up. You will need better springs, but I put them in when I did the old cam. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Im not exactly an expert on the LS1's but how do the lifters stay up? Do you still have to pull the pushrods? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 You pull the rockers, and pushrods. Then you spin the cam and the lifters will stay up on their own (most of the time!). Then you pull the cam and push in the new one. When I did mine the first time I used pen magnets to hold the lifters up, but on the second cam I just spun and pulled. I have heard of lifters dropping into the pan before doing this and that means pulling the heads to put them back in. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigE Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 The lifters have a retainer that bolts to the block on top of the lifter bores with 2 10mm bolts. It's a plastic/polymer piece that just holds the lifters in a "pinch" as long as the pushrods aren't pushing down on them. However, if these retainers have any wear on them, the lifters are slick or you accidently bump the engine, a lifter can fall through which is a headache you want to avoid. Basically, what you do is: 1) Disconnect the wires to the coil packs and remove the valve covers. 2) Loosen the rocker arms and pull the pushrods. 3) Pull the serpentine belt, crank pulley, water pump and front cover. 4) Remove the timing chain and sprockets. Now, at this stage, you have 3 options: A) You can spin the cam and hope fate didn't whiz in your Wheaties this morning, purchase a special tool from Thunder Racing which inserts in holes in the block after the cam is spun to insure that the lifters stay up or C) you can go the pen magnet route that has already been mentioned. When a friend and I installed a hot cam in his 98 Camaro 1LE, we chose the pen magnet route. Everything went well with no problems other than a misleading intake manifold torque figure. We were told 44 and then 89 FT*lbs when in reality it was supposed to be IN*lbs. I should have caught that but I was trusting the source (mistake). Anyway, one snapped bolt later, everything was fine. Here's a picture of the pen magnet method. LS1 Cam Swap Pen Magnets We installed a GMPP hot cam with a 112° lobe separation angle so it lopes like a full out drag car. However, it's mild enough to run on stock tuning. It runs real rich, but the only thing it is hurting right now is peak performance (and gas mileage I suppose ) On stock tuning with all season tires, that car went 13.7s @ 107mph. As you can tell by the mph, he spun through every shift. Also, I was in the car and I push 300lbs easy. In any event, I'm rambling. Point being, an LS1 cam swap is pretty easy, depending on radiator clearance in the vehicle in which it is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Digging up an old topic... We installed a GMPP hot cam with a 112° lobe separation angle so it lopes like a full out drag car. However, it's mild enough to run on stock tuning. It runs real rich, but the only thing it is hurting right now is peak performance (and gas mileage I suppose ) On stock tuning with all season tires, that car went 13.7s @ 107mph. As you can tell by the mph, he spun through every shift. Also, I was in the car and I push 300lbs easy. In any event, I'm rambling. Point being, an LS1 cam swap is pretty easy, depending on radiator clearance in the vehicle in which it is installed. What is the part number for that cam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zprace Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 what's the race weight of john's zcar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColtGT4g63 Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 You can go to home depot and buy a long rod of 5/8" steel dowel. ('m pretty sure its 5/8ths) Cut it in half, clean it, grease it, and stick it in the oil galley's for for lifters behind the cam retainer plate. It does the same thing as the "special tool" you can buy for 100$ I've used it to hold the lifters up every time I've changed the cam so far and it works like a champ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 You can go to home depot and buy a long rod of 5/8" steel dowel. ('m pretty sure its 5/8ths) Cut it in half, clean it, grease it, and stick it in the oil galley's for for lifters behind the cam retainer plate. It does the same thing as the "special tool" you can buy for 100$ I've used it to hold the lifters up every time I've changed the cam so far and it works like a champ. 5/8"? That seems alittle too thick in diameter. I've used 5/16" brake tubing and it was close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColtGT4g63 Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 5/8"? That seems alittle too thick in diameter. I've used 5/16" brake tubing and it was close enough. Ya that's probably it. I'm a metric guy, standard sizes aint my thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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