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Can you SEAM RIVET instead of weld?????


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Having just finished seam wedling a 240Z I can say: Yes, but...

 

1. You would have to use steel rivets (Cherry, Monel, etc.)

2. You'll need to purchase power rivetting equipment.

3. You'll only have access to about 1/2 the places you need to fasten for drilling and rivet setting.

4. It will take at least twice as long to fasten 1/2 as much of the unibody.

 

Othe then those items, sure, you can rivet the seams on a 240Z unibody.

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hmmmmmmm it is still very interesting 2 me. i havent got a welder "yet" but i know i will. maybe ill rivet my rusty car and weld my good car when i finish that. but i guess nobody has done the riveting yet? anyone else have anything 2 ad??

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pop riveted

 

Except for unstress aluminum interior panels, no pop rivets are used anywhere on a race car. Structural rivets were (and still sometimes are) used for stressed monocoque panels. Those are usually run in two rows or more in a specific pattern to distributed the loads evenly. The trade names for these kind of rivets are: Q-rivets, Interlock, Monoblock, CherryMAX, Avex, etc.

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I thought just the 'outer skin' was riveted on planes? As in, the framework was welded/bolted together, and then alum. steel 'pop'ed' over the skeleton.. and wouldn't all those rivets (inplace of a bead of weld..) add up to more weight in the end (assuming you do a LOT of it.. like I had to on my Z.. although I welded..?

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POP-Rivets are non-structural only. You need a solid-core rivet to stand structural loads. All aircraft structure is riveted - we order rivets by the pound and there are thousands in a pound. Many aircraft alloys are non-weldable, and welded structure is not as easily inspected as a riveted structure. The trail of fretted alumimun "smoke" is easy to spot, whereas a crack in a seam weld is hard to see. As previously stated, aircraft flex A LOT. Riveted structure quite tolerant of flex. Structural repair is relatively easy in riveted structure, not so in welded structure.

 

For a unit-body car, Seam-welding is the ultimate, but has trade-offs. If you prang it, it prangs the whole car, and it won't be as easy a fix. I seam-welded my strut towers and around the upper rear hatch area and A-pillar. Funny, my interior still creaks over large transitions.

 

As for riveting seams in the car, you would be using monel rivets, and as someone who does structural repairs using monel rivets, I wouldn't recommend it. They are hard to pound correctly. Buy a mig welder and develop a useful skill.

 

Hope this helps

 

Doug

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