G-E Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Those trans mounts are supposed to be in compression, not tension.... there were some people who used those as diff mounts on z31's, and after some time they started failing. I wasn't around to see the carnage, I warned people it was a dumb idea ahead of time, so I wasn't surprised to hear it... I have an idea though, why not make a solid upper bracket that comes down, and use cheap endlink bushings (drilled if you can't find the right ID) above and below with a through-bolt & nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 The GM rubber mounts will fail catastrophically in tension. ES addressed that problem. The tension that they see in this application is inertia from big bumps, and deceleration while in gear pulling the diff nose down. Could wear out the urethane, but the metal interlock controls the damage, In theory. Seems pretty smart. http://energysuspension.com/products/Transmission-Mounts.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 So it will flop around like a dying fish but won't kill you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 It works great. Post up some examples of the failing Z31 cases. Maybe you were actually wrong twice. Not a dumb idea, many people use them, some for race applications. Actually, I think that the original impetus and design came from a stock setup that kept breaking. The design worked so well that it's now common. Could be just a herd of dumb people though, following along, not realizing their ignorance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 When I grind down the rubber to fit my R200, the interlock gets exposed and puts metal to metal between the interlock and the diff. I'm going to try to space it away instead of grinding it away next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 It works great. Post up some examples of the failing Z31 cases. Maybe you were actually wrong twice. Not a dumb idea, many people use them, some for race applications. Actually, I think that the original impetus and design came from a stock setup that kept breaking. The design worked so well that it's now common. Could be just a herd of dumb people though, following along, not realizing their ignorance. Well is possible this particular version of the mount is indeed captive in ways the early versions weren't, that diagram above by ES shows that they clearly had tearing issues even mounted in compression when the trans tried to twist... which means people found out the hard way that it was a dumb idea as originally designed, but any experience could have been exacerbated by torn engine mounts too Looking at the updated cross-section of the mount, I agree with you, it should work just fine, especially if all the other mounts/bushings are replaced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logr Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) I did this install about a month ago with an r200. 1st; I ground the center poly down(ground the top of the diff a bit too) to allow the es to mount flat on the diff(no metal exposed). That allowed the diff to be mounted close to the original position. 2nd; I drilled the rt mount to allow all 3 bolts to be utilized. 3rd. I welded a tab to the rear/bottom of the original cross/member and mounted a single bolt es bumpstop to it. I ground off the bumpstop until it pushes up on the diff a small amount. This may be overkill but it also doesn't hurt anything. There is no clunk from the diff. Edited July 11, 2014 by logr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I didn't have metal exposed when I assembled it, but when I removed my diff to go with a different ratio, that's when I found the metal torn thru the thinned rubber. Try dropping your clutch on slicks about 100 times then inspect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Folks: Asking for Pros/Cons of the two installation options for Ron Tyler Diff front mount. Option 1: With Urethane stop above and and Stock Nissan mount below Option 2: With Energy Suspension top mount. I have to make a decision, so please lemmee know your thoughts! (Diff Type is R180) Thnx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 I have only ever done Option 1 and it works well, I like to have to the poly snubber on top actually touching the diff so there is as little room for it to move as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 If I'm not mistaken, option #2 was actually developed to address driveline angles in V8 swapped cars, so if you use that option, you'll be changing your driveline angles slightly. You should do further research to confirm that that is true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jughead Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Update: I've been emailing Brian, Owner of TechnoVersions. Here's what he said: "Folks are happy with either option one or option two. If it helps make a decision, I was told that the stock lower mount is no longer available, but I haven't confirmed that. I'm only aware of one failure out of all that have been sold. It was a crack in the metal bracket that occurred with a high-powered car in a 24-hour endurance race. Since we learned that, the mount was strengthened in that area, so it should never happen again, even in these extreme conditions." When I asked about the drive line angles his response was: As noted on the web page, it's only a 2 degree change. I've never had a negative comment back from customers about using the top mount with stock engines. Not to worry! Brian's been great to work with and I've ordered the bracket and am going with the Energy Suspension top mount. Unless you hear otherwise on this thread, assume that I love it. Jughead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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