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name your clutch


evildky

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Did the same thing on my Civic, I only put down 220whp with it!

 

Stay the hell away from them. I've seen/heard some horrid things about that company's DF clutch.

 

In my Z, I have a custom 4 puck sprung, stock flywheel and pressure plate. works great. at 400ft/lbs of tq @ 3000rpm.

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You do not need overpriced name brand clutches. I paid 120 dollars for my disk.

 

http://www.baycityclutch.com

 

They are well known here in the Bay area. Im sure they would have no problem gettnig you your clutch. Mine was already done for me BEFORE I said I needed it. Basicly I called them out of the blue. Said I wanted a 4 puck, sprung disk, for my Z. They said no problem, and that was it. I picked it up the same day.

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Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt

If the pressure plate is not totally trashed I would reuse it with a ACT disk, a solid 6 puck. I like the DF plate but those disk suck bad.I sell the disck for about $100.00

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Sprung puck clutch disks don't make any sense to me. The whole idea of the pucks is to have the MOST aggressive engagement possible. Then you put springs in there which are going to supposedly limit the chattering.

 

From personal experience I can say that with my ~230whp NA engine I've replaced clutch disks because the springs were loose. This happens because the springs get overworked. I don't drag race, so in my case this is due to shifting hard on a road course with slicks. Putting springs on a puck clutch is just asking for the springs to fail IMO. Especially since most of you turbo guys are drag racing.

 

Strangely I have to admit that to date I haven't heard anyone say that they've had the springs come out of a puck clutch disk.

 

I would say get an aggressive pp and a mild clutch disk. The pp's available should be strong enough to clamp down a stock disk hard enough to hold down LOTS of power. The puck disks eat up everything, so IMO they should be the LAST RESORT. When you have the super aggressive pp and the clutch still slips, then get the puck disk.

 

You might have to replace the disk a little more because the springs go bad, but if you put the puck disk in you'll be replacing disk, pp, and flywheel at about the same interval.

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I use the ACT PP with the solid 6puck ACT disk. It chatters if I try to drive it in traffic gently. There is no way to drive it gently. If you rev to about 2000+ and ride it, it engages fine.

 

It offers very fast engagement with the price of chatter. On the track it is great. On the street it is ok. In traffic, it sux. When it heats up it grabs better but chatters worse.

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Other than a heavy clutch pedal, the 240mm ACT HD PP and organic street disk i've been running for about 1.5 years with approx 30 runs down the strip and abused on the street from time to time, has and still hooks awesome. Just my experience. Good luck.

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I've heard bad things about the Spec stg 2. My friend in her SR is only putting down about 260whp/250wtq and her spec has started slipping pretty bad. She's had it less then a year, only about 5 times down the track and 3 drifting events.

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i had good luck with SPEC clutchs and also ACT.

never liked CF at all, blew a DSM up hardcore with a CF.

 

i have a oldschool Nissan Motorsports Turbo Stage 1 clutch in my blue Z.

it wasnt the HP monster as some of you guys have but it was quick and i BEAT THE HELL OUT OF IT!!! and it hasnt slipped yet.

 

also i would like to find the specs and ratings on my clutch.... anybody?

 

mike

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I use a 240mm SPEC stage 2 ($305.00) from Nippon Power rated to 455 ft lbs. It has a 1000 mile break in for the kevlar clutch but mine quit slipping at 300 miles. I like it. I run 15 psi of boost and it holds it ok so far. The pedal is light and feels stock and doesn't chatter at all. The spec stage 3 was hard to drive on the street (ceramic, 6 puck, sprung hug) because it chattered badly but rated to 500 ft lbs.

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Guest bastaad525

DUDE!!!

 

Run a STOCK CLUTCH DISC and heavy duty pressure plate!!! It's CHEAP, and is easy on your other drivetrain parts, unlike a metallic puck clutch.

 

I keep preaching this but no one cares to hear it.

 

I'm running a bone stock disk, with a heavy duty Daikin pressure plate. The set cost me ~$125 with throwout bearing. I'm now running max 14psi of boost, putting down 233hp and 303ftlbs of torque to the wheels, and this clutch setup is holding like a champ. And I abuse the crap out of it! LOTS of high revving slip clutch launches to get the boost up while launching. But it still holds perfectly and hasn't ever slipped on me. It has no chatter on take up... butter smooth almost like an automatic trans in the car! The pedal is only barely stiffer than stock... traffic? No problem! I love it!

 

I ran an ACT six puck metallic clutch and heavy duty PP setup for a couple of years... let me tell you I HATED that clutch... I only bought it because people convinced me I needed it for my 'high hp' 170rwhp N/A motor.... pffffffffft! I transferred the whole clutch, PP and flywheel setup over to the turbo motor when I swapped. First let me tell you, the pedal was super stiff... big time PITA to drive on a daily basis and god forbid I got stuck in traffic... I'd be limping the rest of the day. It chattered pretty bad though eventually I learned to get it rolling pretty smooth, I had to slip it a LOT to do so. And it was destructive. It only lasted about 20k miles before it wore (more like chewed) the flywheel down so far that the rivets on the clutch disk were rubbing up against the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft. It also chewed the PP surface up pretty bad... though the disc was like new when we pulled it all apart. It also shattered the pilot bearing to bits, and caused premature wear on my thrust/center main bearing on the crank. Sure this setup would probably have held ungodly amounts of power... but as I have yet to, nor will probably ever reach those levels of power, it was definately a waste in my case.

 

If I ever did need to upgrade due to too much power causing my current setup to slip, I would still stick with a softer, stock style disc, and just step up to a better PP. The Daikin doesn't clamp as strongly as the ACT PP did, I know that. So I'd probably stay with stock disc and go back to an ACT PP.

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I decided to upgrade just the disc, because the pedal pressure would remain the same, and the stock PP has a good clamping force already.

 

Remember, I like to beat my car senseless, and Im making gobs of torque as well. ;)

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I just finished installing my turbo setup a few weeks back and the stock (new) turbo clutch can't hold it. I just recieved my ACT 6 puck setup and 10 pount SPEC 240mm aluminum flywheel. I believe that if my stock pressure plate had more clamping force, it would hold. I will be installing the ACT PP and the light flywheel with a stock disk first. I do like to drive the car around town and to work sometimes. There is traffic on the way to and from work. I guess if the stock disk slips after this, then I will pull the tranny and install the 6 puck disk.. I don't want a seriously harsh engaugement but, if I have to then I guess I have to. The torque is insane with my new motor setup. Even right off the line. I look at it this way. I will be able to find my weak spots in the drivetrain. Torque, I love it!

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well, I am gonna re-use the centerforce pressure plate and my nismo disk should be in by friday, and my new shortened driveshaft will be done thursday and I just finnished modding the trans mount to fit the KA 5 speed I let you know how it all works out, and dyno day is in 2 weeks so i'll see what I am putting to it, I am guessing only around 200 whp right now

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no one seems to have mentioned clutch masters.. i've got a stage 5 in it and i love it. its not broken in yet but the pedal feel is just like stock and it grabs hard! [url']www.clutchmasters.com[/url]

 

I will... I had a CM stage 4 in my turbo Z and after around 2,500 mi on it, I took it to Fla. where James Thagard and myself, put her on the dyno for a tune of my TEC2.

 

After a couple pulls, the new Clitch Masters preasure plate explodes, and blows a chunck of my bellhousing out.

 

We pulled the trans to find the small straps that hold the two pieces of the preasure plate together, had snapped off.

 

I call CM to ask about free replacement (because of it being new) and the tech suport guy tells me I had to have caused this, and that I had to have downshifted from 5th gear to 1st to have caused that....

 

Never again.... I since went with the SPEC stage 3, and its a much better quailty product.

Also, CM are way to expensive compared to others. And, I heard that they don't even make their products, that they rebadge other peoples products...

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