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Underbody/interior rubberized coating removal


crackhouse

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I'm working on a '77 280Z. I have the vehicle completely torn down. There is not a single bolt left on the thing. I have all the exterior paint stripped off and I'm beginning to do the body work to get ready for paint. While I have the paint off, I'm going to stitch weld the seams of the entire car, but I have an issue with the rubberized coatings everywhere. What is the easiest way to get this junk off? I want all coatings/paints off the car so I can stitch weld it and then reseal the whole car with POR-15 before painting. The putty knife method has gotten old.

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water based undercoating comes off with repeated wet coats of automotice paint stripper but petroleum-based undercoating is nasty stuff to remove. It dissolves in gasoline or lacquer thinner but both of these are highly volatile and toxic substances. the safest and easiest way to remove it is to heat the panel from the back using a propane torch to soften the coating then scrape it off using a putty knife. wear a respirator and work outdoors while removing the undercoating. keep a fire extinguisher handy too. Only heat the panel enough to soften the undercoating a little. you can easily oil-can and ruin panels if you get them too hot. try just a little heat, than scrape imediately before the panels cool. You dont need to get every vestage of of undercoating off this way. Just scrape the thick deposits. When you have scraped off the worst of the undercoating come back with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner and wash of the rest of it. Wear neoprene gloves while working dont smoke and dispose of the oily residue according to local environmental laws. Keep the rag soaked with thinner and keep turning it as you wipe the area down. When the panel is as clean as you can get it. wipe the panel down again with a good grease remover such as Eastwoods Pre. After that go over the panel with Eastwoods Metal Wash which further removes grease and contaminants and leaves behind a rust preventitive coating that helps paint adhesion and prevents surface rust until you finish your body work and can paint the panel. Panel should be ok for a few days but should be painted or primed with epoxy primer which is moister proof.

Ferd.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I scraped off what I could with a chisel them used 3-4 wire wheels on my right angle grinder. As the wheels gummed up I threw them in a can of gas and let them soak. Start on an outside edge and work towards the centre so what your taking off is not thrown back onto the clean area. Yes it is messy!!

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Propane torch, time, scrapper, time, safety glasses, time, gloves, time, lacquer thinner, time, and rags. That is how I have been doing it. I also work on it a little, then work on something else. The interior is much easier to get off with heat and a scrapper.

Also, I tried paint stripper on the underside, it works well in place of heat, but makes a much larger mess! Just apply, wait 15-20 minutes, scrap. I want to try the pressure washer, but am afraid of making the other bare metal rust...boy it would easier that way though.

Joshua

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Propane torch, time, scrapper, time, safety glasses, time, gloves, time, lacquer thinner, time, and rags.

 

I'd put those safety glasses and gloves on first! LOL

 

This is roughly the same process I used. I had an assistant heat a small section of undercoating with the propane torch. When the undercoating appeared to discolor (very quickly) I jumped in with the putty knife and began stripping. You won't remove everything (sometimes corners and areas where sheet metal overlap can be tricky) but what is left is usually just residue and easy to remove with thinner.

 

Just be careful that you don't get the torch too close. If you do... you will have to deal with flaming globules of undercoating that can quickly ruin your day. 'Napalm sticks to kids'

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Thanks for the help guys. I've had the car stripped down since July, but the undercoating is the only thing left. I'm trying to build a VG30DETT car (the engine/trans has already been test fitted) but the dang body work is holding me back. If I didn't have to do the body work, I would have been finished last month! Body work sucks!

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Crackhouse,

I feel exactly the same way. If I did not have all the body work to do (replacing and fixing stuff, not strengthening, I would nearly be done. It sure does take a long time though to do the body work (for me at least). I can empathize 100%.

Joshua

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Just think of it this way... All that body work is giving you more time to change your mind and alter the direction of your project in potentially fun, exciting and expensive ways! I've had 3 different motors/trannys, 4 different paint colors (purchased and tested), 2 sets of wheels... the list goes on!

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