240Z2NV Posted April 10, 2005 Share Posted April 10, 2005 I've spent quite a bit of time searching for those "clevis" ends, and found bubkis at this point....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted April 10, 2005 Share Posted April 10, 2005 Pardon my noob question, but what do "T/C rod" and "LCA" stand for? LCA sure is not lobe centerline angle when you are talking about suspension... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted April 10, 2005 Share Posted April 10, 2005 Well Austin, I mean maybe if that Viper Blue 280 wasnt going to be dogging you pretty soon it would be alright. Hahaha jk!!! Anyways lookin good as always, and please dont influence me to buy anymore parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 T/C = Tension Compression (Rod) LCA = Lower Control Arm You never learn without asking questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 AFCO does have the clevis' in their catalog. I looked last night. I am not sure though how good their online catalog is. Maybe give them a call, since they don't list dimensions for them either. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mileski Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 AFCO offers four sizes of clevis' in their catalog. http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=91&CategoryID=8 Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 A different solution for adjustable TC rod bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted April 12, 2005 Author Share Posted April 12, 2005 ooo pretty, care to share details? btw -- thanks for hte help guys hopefully i will get this put together soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Ron, now THAT looks cooool! Please, fill us in.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Ron, Is that a monoball assembly, like you can buy to replace rubber bushings in AFCO? If so, do you know what the difference is in thrust load from a regular spherical bearing insert? I would also like more details on your setup. Thanks, Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 I had a rep from AFCO on the line for a long time today. I linked him up to this thread so that we could discuss the different options 'realtime'. He was very generous with his time and gave me some good feedback (about half of which I understood; but, I was too proud to say "Huh?"). The reason that the 'hockey stick' end is often referred to as a "Ford Rod End" is that they originally used Ford Falcon ends for this type of application for race car chassis in the 'early days'. In fact, AFCO has a piece derived from that design that acts as an adjustable lower control arm: http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8&ClassID=98&SubclassID=458&ProductID=637 I couldn't get clear on what mods would be necessary to make this substitute for our LCAs; but, he felt it a good alternative to the adjustable lower control arms that I 'led' him to on 'our' site after I got him here. Again, it was pretty cool having him on the other line and emailing him links (even all the way back to Mike Kelly's original design) and discussing them 'realtime'. In the larger picture, I think that the cumulative genius on this site far exceeds this individual from AFCO, but, he was still very helpful. He suggested that for my 'simpleton skills' that I take the 'hockey stick' end of the OE TC Rod, cut about 5-6" off, have that threaded to go into a 5/8" swaged steel tube with a heavy duty rod end on the frame end. The part that he couldn't advise me on was the "U Bracket" or shock mount tab that connects it to the frame location (I'm maintaining my stock mount). He felt that a "Shock Mount Tab" like the one that I 'led' him to on Race Basics' site would NOT be strong enough. He pointed out that they are not intended for the types of loads that will regularly be seen at the TC Rod. So, it remains to be determined where to find a suitable 'mount' like that shown in buZy's post with the red tubed assembly. Once I find that, I think that I will be set for the "TC Rod mod"...that 'U mount' will enable me to use the OE rubber TC bushings to reduce ride harshness. Then, I will need to continue to lament whether or not to do the "LCA mod". He shared my admiration for Ron Cs monoball insert design; but concurred that it was WAY out of my abilities... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted April 13, 2005 Author Share Posted April 13, 2005 Good info. On the frame "u mount" The type I am using can be sorced from chassisshop.com This is the thing they are designed for. As you can see its the same type mount as used on the arizona zcar supension. At any rate I believe its plenty strong enough. I think I will be using a clevis on the other end. Ill let you'll know how it turns out. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 240Z2NV, That is good information. It is always nice to talk to someone who is helpful and not in a rush, or just trying to sell something. I was wondering about cutting my stock T/C rods this weekend. I wasn't thinking in terms of threading them though, rather I want to weld them to a tube (insert the cutoff section into a tight fitting tube). I am not sure though what kind of material they are, if they are heat treated, or anything else. I would be cautious though of threading the rod. If you look at the original design, the load is carried down the T/C rod, into the large washer, into the bushing, into the frame. The method of transferring the load from the rod to the washer is with a step (shoulder). The reduced diameter and threads do not carry the compressive loads, rather they only hold everything together. I am also concerned about welding due to HAZ affects. It almost seems better to cut duplicates out of thicker steel, them weld from there. Maybe I am going overkill, but that is one part I do NOT want to break at any speed. I agree about the shock mounts. I asked in another thread a while back whether people are welding them on, and the answer was not, just a single bolt. I know others have used them succesfully, but I will not be. To me, it is not worth the risk of having it collapse sideways, or up and down. The decision is yours ultimately. I think the advice you were given though concerning that attachment method is good. Used in tension, I think the shock mount style and clevis style will work fine though. Did you get any ideas on the monoball? Thanks, Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted April 14, 2005 Author Share Posted April 14, 2005 Hey guys, I searched around locally here and found all the parts i need to complete my t/c rods. I found some 5/8" clevis's locally, they have a 3/8" pin hole put this will be drilled out to 1/2". Then ill be using a 5/8 heim on the other side. While i was in the same shop I notcied that had premade rod sectioned for suspension pieces. They come with a grip knurled into them and the ends are swaged down and tapped to 5/8" threads. LH on one end and RH on the other. They also has these in aluminum. The rods are sold in many different lengths starting at 6" and going till 15 i believe in one inch increments. Anyway i measured it up and found out a 9" bar would work perfectly. I choose steel as I am VERY weary of aluminum in the suspesion as it tends to fatique. heres what im talking about: i will be finshing it up tomarrow, turning some bushings for the u-mount, and then powdercoating the rods. Ill post some pictures up tomarrow. -austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted April 19, 2005 Author Share Posted April 19, 2005 OKay t/c rods done. i just finished powdercoating them and bolting them up today. Hope yall enjoy parts i used: - (2) 5/8" clevis (LH) - ~$6ea - (2) 5/8" Heim Joint (RH) - ~$8ea - (2) LH jam nuts - ~ $1 ea - (2) RH jam nuts - ~ $1ea - (2) 9" steel tubing sections with the ends swaged and oppisite 5/8" thread - ~ $13ea - (2) t/c rod mounts from chassis shop - ~ $11ea - 1" aluminum rods to cutt bushings from - 3/8" cold rolled steel plate - hardened grade 8 fastners - black gloss podwercoat -austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Beautiful!!! Please list the source of the parts, those prices are pretty good! Also, where did you get the 'saddle' end that goes closest to the firewall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Very nice looking work Austin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat260 Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Hi Austin Your frame work looks solid, nice job on the T/C. Ari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Yea! Looks really nice! Great job Austin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Good job Austin! Some questions, What size holes are in the clevis/u-bracket? I'm guessing 5/8". And a 5/8" bolt and washer at the mounting point? I could've sworn that the hole was bigger than that? At the control arm side, if/when the LCA gets pushed backwards, won't it pivot at your clevis and rip the u-bracket out of it's mount? Of course you'd have to hit something pretty hard, but I've bent a stock TC rod almost 90deg on an impact before, but nothing flew off. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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