Welder Tech Needed Please

[v8dream]

Hello,

 

I am looking into buying a wire feed welder and would like some input as to what to get. I will be using it primarily for sheet metal repair, exhaust tubing and other light guage material. I can't imagine ever needing to weld anything thicker than 1/4". Has anyone used any of the smaller units on the market? No brand names come to mind, but I've seen them for under $1,000. Also, flux core versus gas shielding. Any opinions on that?

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Larry

[240hoke]

Hobart 180w 220v

Gas Shielding i see as a necessity. much easier to weld with and will turn out a much high quality weld with less contamination. I bought my welder, gas, and supplies for right at 1000, and I love the unit works jsut fine for me!

 

Btw this topic has been covered ALOT might want ot search before somebody gets on to you lol

 

-Austin

[v8dream]

Thanks for your help. I suppose my post count will let folks know that I'm kind of new at this.

[BrandonsZ]

why not TIG? It's easy to learn, the welds are stronger, and you have ultimate control. I can't say enough about the Lincoln 185. Pricey yes, but that damn thing will weld straight through paint and rust and oil, and it doesn't seem to matter what I do to the metal or what residue it has. and it is so forgiving, if you burn through, it's so easy to fill holes, edge weld, and if you don't like a weld? Just weld over it, no need to grind or even clean the old weld. I'm sure this isn't good practice, but seriuosly, you could take a coat hanger, and weld stainless to high carbon (ok I didn't try it but I did weld stainless to high carbon with low carbon rod). After grinding, I found no porosity, full penetration and the weld seam was neat and tidy.

 

I'll be paying it off for the next two years though. well worth it. I tried to weld a bar to a plate with a $250 sears special non shielded flux core mig and I had to clean and regrind after every 1/2" because the thing didn't like to arc to anything but pristine metal and it oxidized ahead of the weld. I strongly recommend shielded. They work well, but penetration can be an issue for thicker work, and burn through can be a hassle for thinner work.

 

The tig is right at home in any case, and amybe for $1000 you could get a nice used one or a DC only rig.

[240hoke]

TIG welding is awesome and great for fabricating suspension, exhaust manifolds, i/c pipes and the like where you are working with new metal and close tolerances. TIG welding is SLOW and PRECISE.

 

I wouldnt even think about doing a set of floor pans or any rust work with a TIG welder. I have been getting alot of practice TIG welding and it is really nice to be able to control the heat and lay down pretty welds. Not to mention of clean it is. But for the average person rebuilding a car I would say get a MIG.

 

Sooo...

What are you planning on doing? From the sounds of it you want to do exhaust, body, and rust work. In that case the only way i would go is MIG

[sab12373]

I bought a Lincoln SP-135T a few years back. It is a wire feed mig welder. It can be used with or without gas. It does require you to prep the metal a little but I haven't had any trouble with it.

 

If I had the money I would buy a TIG for the ease and variety of metals you can work with. If you plan on doing thin gauge body work you will get the best results from a TIG or a gas MIG welder.

[johnc]

why not TIG? It's easy to learn, the welds are stronger, and you have ultimate control. I can't say enough about the Lincoln 185. Pricey yes, but that damn thing will weld straight through paint and rust and oil, and it doesn't seem to matter what I do to the metal or what residue it has. and it is so forgiving, if you burn through, it's so easy to fill holes, edge weld, and if you don't like a weld? Just weld over it, no need to grind or even clean the old weld. I'm sure this isn't good practice, but seriuosly, you could take a coat hanger, and weld stainless to high carbon (ok I didn't try it but I did weld stainless to high carbon with low carbon rod). After grinding, I found no porosity, full penetration and the weld seam was neat and tidy.

 

Amazing paragraph! Where do I begin?

[240hoke]

Wow i didnt bother to read the whole thing maybe ill start explaining

It's easy to learn[/Quote]

I think most people are going to disagree here, and it is many many many times harder ot learn TIG then MIG.

 

Pricey yes, but that damn thing will weld straight through paint and rust and oil, and it doesn't seem to matter what I do to the metal or what residue it has.[/Quote]

 

Sure It will weld through them but it will be a horribly contaiminated and weak weld, all parts welded should be free of scale, containation, and should be wiped with acetone to ensure a good strong weld.

 

and it is so forgiving, if you burn through, it's so easy to fill holes, edge weld, and if you don't like a weld?[/Quote]

Compared to MIG welding TIG is much less forgiving in any of the situations listed, especially filling holes.

[gwheeler]

Hello' date='

 

I am looking into buying a wire feed welder and would like some input as to what to get. I will be using it primarily for sheet metal repair, exhaust tubing and other light guage material. I can't imagine ever needing to weld anything thicker than 1/4". Has anyone used any of the smaller units on the market? No brand names come to mind, but I've seen them for under $1,000. Also, flux core versus gas shielding. Any opinions on that?

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Larry[/quote']

 

I bought a small Miller 220V MIG, with gas, for about $750. I'm very happy with it.

[Brad-ManQ45]

I did my due diligence prior to purchasing a MillerMatic 175. I will be doing floor pans and body panels, as well as subchassis connectors.

 

I have already built a rotisserie, pics posted and forum threads about this project - do a search if you wish.

 

I also took two courses at a local VoTech.

 

The best bang for the buck out there in my opinion is the Hobart 140 or 180, which weren't available when I got my welder. I think I would still get the Miller today, but it would be a tough call - I just like the infinite adjustability of voltage.

[BrandonsZ]

Amazing paragraph! Where do I begin?

 

You dissagree? I tested some welds where I welded straight through paint and rust and it was as good as clean metal, although it is better practice to clean and wipe the parts first.

 

For ciritcal joints, what would you rather have a Mig or Tig weld?

[BrandonsZ]

Wow i didnt bother to read the whole thing maybe ill start explaining

 

I think most people are going to disagree here' date=' and it is many many many times harder ot learn TIG then MIG.

[/quote']

 

I never quite got the hang of MIG (using a crappy one probably not the best tool to learn) so I don't know how hard/easy it is to use a good one, but the TIG, for me, just seemed like soldering (easy), and I was surprised after about 12 linear feet of practice welds, I could really do everything I needed to do to get a good weld without porosity, neat slim weld every time without ever picking up the grinder. It's quiet, and no sparks, and even when you contaminate the tip, it really self-cleans to some extent, I've touched the metal sometimes and as long as it's not a big glob on the tip, it evaporates off. I had to clean the tip for about every 5 feet of welding I bet.

[johnc]

OK, I'll go through it:

 

the welds are stronger

 

One welding process is not "stronger" then the other. A proper MIG weld is equal in strength to a proper TIG weld. Assuming perfect preparation and welder skill, weld strength comes from the base material and filler.

 

and you have ultimate control.

 

I agree you have better control of heat input and filler deposition with the TIG process.

 

I can't say enough about the Lincoln 185.

 

Its a nice welder.

 

but that damn thing will weld straight through paint and rust and oil, and it doesn't seem to matter what I do to the metal or what residue it has.

 

That's also true of just any welding process but its a horrible practice. Like anything else in life, proper preparation is key to getting good results. If you weld over paint, dirt, and oil you will have paint, dirt, and oil in the weld bead. Remember, you're shielding the weld area with Argon gas to keep Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Hydrogen from contaminating the weld and making it brittle. By welding over oil you've just varpoized a Hydrocarbon right into your weld puddle. Ever heard of Hydrogen Embrittlement?

 

and it is so forgiving, if you burn through,

 

If you are TIG welding correctly you shouldn't be getting any burn through. But, even with some burn through I agree that correcting it is fairly easy.

 

and if you don't like a weld? Just weld over it, no need to grind or even clean the old weld.

 

And you've just created a contaminated weld. The TIG welding process tends to bring weld impurities to the surface of the weld and filler material selection (especially ER70S-6) increases that cleaning process. Welding a second time over an existing TIG weld drives those impuries back into the weld.

 

I'm sure this isn't good practice, but seriuosly, you could take a coat hanger, and weld stainless to high carbon (ok I didn't try it but I did weld stainless to high carbon with low carbon rod).

 

And you created a weld full of impurities plus you just killed any corrosion resistance in the weld and the HAZ on each side. The weld bead itself also has a lower tensile strength then the two parant metals you stuck together.

 

After grinding, I found no porosity, full penetration and the weld seam was neat and tidy.

 

What about impurities? Stuff that's in the weld that isn't metal?

 

Clean, clean, clean, clean is critical to a good weld. Anything that's in the weld bead that is not metal, reduces the strength of the weld. You can weld 4340 CroMo steel with an ER110S-2 filler and, if everything goes well, you'll have a weld joint that reaches 110Ksi in strength. But, any impurities, any porosity, any undercut, any excess hydrogen, etc. and the weld strength drops - often by a lot.

[Mike C]

John, you are WAY more patient than me! I just moved on to the next one...

[SSflyer]

My advice would be to NOT buy one of those 110v MIGs everybody seems to be selling. Get a 220v or nothing. I sold welders for years, and the Millermatic is about the best out there for cost and versatility.

[desert dog]

My advice would be to NOT buy one of those 110v MIGs everybody seems to be selling.

I agree. i have one of those little Craftsman 110V wire feeds. It is a good little spot welder, but that is about it...

[Guest 73TPIZ]

My advice would be to NOT buy one of those 110v MIGs everybody seems to be selling. Get a 220v or nothing. I sold welders for years, and the Millermatic is about the best out there for cost and versatility.

 

 

I disagree. For the hobbiest or part timer, a GOOD 110V welder is fine. Not to be confused with a CHEAP 110V welder. A Miller 140, Lincoln 135 or the like weld great and you don't have to wire and drag a 220V cord all over the shop.

 

BTW, I had a cheap one for years, and finally bought a Lincoln 135 last year. Best $500 spent that year.

[v8dream]

Thanks again for all the input, everybody. The pros and cons addressed above really help a newbie like me to see the whole picture. Well, see it better anyway! I appreciate it very much. After reading all of the above, I am looking hard at the Hobart 180 MIG, which operates on 220v, and gas shielding.

[JMortensen]

Love my Millermatic 135. LOVE IT.

[Cody 82 ZXT]

I agree if you can then go with the 220v unit but, if it's not the right thing for you then the 110v unit will do lots of things for you. I have the Hobart 140 and have been very happy with it so far.