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I/c pipes finished


240hoke

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Hey guys another quick update on my motor....

 

I did alot more wiring, mounted all the SDS stuff, finisihed my fuel lines, and made my i/c pipes. Woke up at 7:00 today to powdercoat them :)

 

Anyway, they are 2.5" mandrel exhaust tubing from JEG's , i used silicon connectors from ATP turbo along with SS t-bolt clamps. These clamps are awesome thats all i can say about them, 100X better then the worm drive and they dont tear up the hoses.

 

Im am mounting my BOV (Type RS) on the outlet spout of the intercooler forward of the raiator x-memeber, have to get to that next weekend... anyway i hope to have the engine running next week.

 

Lemmek now what you guys think..

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Hey guys,

 

Thanks for the compliments.

 

Powdercoating is actually really easy, I use an eastwood gun and have my grandmothers old kitchen oven. I snagged it when she upgraded lol. Pretty cheap too, you can get started powdering for the cost of your first batch of stuff at a professional place! Not to mention most people around me have a rediculous wait period.

 

-Austin

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Hey guys' date='

 

Thanks for the compliments.

 

Powdercoating is actually really easy, I use an eastwood gun and have my grandmothers old kitchen oven. I snagged it when she upgraded lol. Pretty cheap too, you can get started powdering for the cost of your first batch of stuff at a professional place! Not to mention most people around me have a rediculous wait period.

 

-Austin[/quote']Yea, powdercoating is fun and easy. I've upgraded to the eastwood pro gun now, but was wondering about your oven because your valve cover looks pc'd. No way that would fit in my kitchen oven. I'm in the process of building an extension for it to do bigger parts (like my valve cover). If you need to do something like it, here is where I got the info on it, down at the bottom of the page: http://web.archive.org/web/20020214081002/www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/PowderCoating/powder_coating_equipment.htm

 

again, very nice work!

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Your setup looks very similar to mine, but I like the way you ran your IC pipe out of the turbo. I could not get mine to clear that way, I don't remember why I could'nt but a I really wanted to do it that way. I had to go low along the frame rail then I roled a 90 on a 45 deg angle up in front of my rad and then leveled out and came threw the rad support. Not much different but you have one less turn and a more direct route, very nice work. Looks like the same IC I used, I got mine on ebay for $350 or so and it came with IC piping for the 300tt, made by Hybrid.

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Hey guys,

 

Thanks again for the compliments. Sparks is right I had the valve cover done a while ago when it was on my 260. I plan on recoating it myself due to the differences in the powder, the eastwood wrinkle isnt nearly as textured as the stuff calico used.

 

datsunan -- The clearence is very tight against the fender. I have a strap that keeps the pipe rigid and from hitting the fender. When I go to a larger turbo I belive i will have a 90" elbow welded to the turbo outlet so i can bring a pipe straight into it and clock it down some, i think this would be the easiest to setup and be very clean.

 

2003z -- On the oven thing I too plan on making a hood to come out so i can put larger pats in the oven. Thats a good website, didnt think of using heat duct material -- seems like it will do the trick. The oven I have is pretty large though. I believe my oven is about 17"x17"x17" but i need to measure.

 

Sparks -- thanks for the mandrel lol, and for bringing that lift up, horray for scoring cheap engine hoists!

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Guest CyRuS240z

Man I love your car!, I've read all the info about it on your web site. I recently got a 1972 240z for free and want to do most of the same things to it that your doing to yours. Also after reading all about the rust repair and the body work, it convinced me to buy a welder! Your buildup of your car is one of the best I've seen anywhere! Congrats to you! This car definately is a worthy succesor to your 260z!

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Guest 73Turbo240z

hmm... i like the way the fuel pressure regulator is stashed behind the valvecover... makes for a cleaner presentation... i was already planning on 180'ing the fuel after the rail, but now i think i may copy your FPR placement to add to my setup...

 

looking good!

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280zone -- Heres the parts list for this setup

 

Atpturbo.com --

Silicon couplers:

2.0-2.5" Transition (1)

2.75-2.5" Transition (3)

2.5" Hump connector (1)

 

T-bolt Clamps:

2.25" (1)

2.75" (4)

3.00" (3)

 

Aluminum Mandrel 2.5 90's (3)

 

Jegs --

3 Mandrel U-bends

 

SSautochrome/Ebay --

24x12x4" I/C "XS Power"

 

Where every ou can find it --

Greddy type-RS BOV

Aluminum Flange

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280zone -- Heres the parts list for this setup

 

Atpturbo.com --

Silicon couplers:

2.0-2.5" Transition (1)

2.75-2.5" Transition (3)

2.5" Hump connector (1)

 

T-bolt Clamps:

2.25" (1)

2.75" (4)

3.00" (3)

 

Aluminum Mandrel 2.5 90's (3)

 

Jegs --

3 Mandrel U-bends

 

SSautochrome/Ebay --

24x12x4" I/C "XS Power"

 

Where every ou can find it --

Greddy type-RS BOV

Aluminum Flange

 

 

Hey hey now, the GReddy Type RS Bov's are in stock now, ask Ryan how fast he got his!

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is that one of those chinese 240sx ic's that was on ebay got $250 or so?i got 1 of those but havent decided how to reposition the inlet/outlet.was going to have the tanks modified with the outlets coming out of the back but that will cost money for me to pay somebody that does good aluminum work.

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