thehelix112 Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Guys, I run out of thread on my steering tie rod ends when I try to wind in anywhere near decent track camber settings. Has anyone used spacers or other components to fix this problem? I want 3-4 degrees and am nowhere near it with the std rack/tie rod ends. Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Guys' date=' I run out of thread on my steering tie rod ends when I try to wind in anywhere near decent track camber settings. Has anyone used spacers or other components to fix this problem? I want 3-4 degrees and am nowhere near it with the std rack/tie rod ends. Thanks, Dave[/quote'] Uh, aren't tie rods for adjusting toe? Camber would be length of LCA or strut bolting point up top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 19, 2005 Author Share Posted December 19, 2005 Chris, Yes they are, but when you move the LCA outwards you are moving the steering arm outwards too (and the bottom of the strut), if you don't adjust the tie rod end outwards too then you end up with mega toe-in. Make sense? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed660 Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Dave You should check, but I believe one way to get more adjustment is to use the track rods off a 280 which are a bit longer (1/2 inch or so) The problem is that they are both rh thread, whereas the 240/260 is rh and lh thread. What you have to do is get a spare steering rack and swap the rh thread rack end fitting into your rack on the car. With 2 rh thread ends you can then use the 280 track rods on your rack and get some more adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 I have fabricated adapters for mine (which in essence was a spacer as well) and have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 The problem that you are encountering is one of the reasons that I don't like using the lower control arms to adjust camber. I use the camber plates for that. On my car, I have done the front crossmember mod(relocated the hole for the LCA up 3/4" and out 1/4"). This, with the stock length lower control arms, pretty much eliminated bump steer. As a side effect however, it also pretty much decoupled the camber and toe of the car (when adjusting using camber plates). By that, I mean that I can change the camber with very little effect on the toe. On a car where you adjust camber using the lower control arm, you have to realign the toe for even a slight camber adjustment. At one time, I had the eccentric bushing to adjust my front camber. I replaced them after one of the eccentrics rotated during an autocross event. My car all of a sudden went from 2 degree negative camber and 1/8" toe out to 0.5 degrees positive camber (on the RF wheel) and 3/4" toe out. These of course are my own personal opinions, and as such are no better than those of anyone else. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 I plan to install camber plates on my Z, along with my control arms/ TC ROds and I've already done the bump steer mod. The longer Tie rod mod is definately something that is required for more than 2 degrees, maybe up to 2.5 degrees negative camber with just lower arms. Terry, got any pics of those?? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 There are changes to the toe even with the use of camber plates as well. Not to the extent that would happen by moving the CA in/out, but still enough to warrant toe adjustments in some cases. The adapter I fabricated was the end of a Ford tie rod end welded to a 1/2" bolt. The Ford end screwed onto the rack, and the 1/2" threaded portion screwed into the rod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Ack! Bolts for spacers? Ack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 The adapter I fabricated was the end of a Ford tie rod end welded to a 1/2" bolt. The Ford end screwed onto the rack' date=' and the 1/2" threaded portion screwed into the rod end. [img']http://www.fototime.com/084E9427A2B0903/standard.jpg[/img] Did you make any mods to the LCA mounting position? How does it feel with all of the nuts on there? Looka a little scarry to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 This was a temporary step in getting the correct spacing. Once I found the right length of the spacer, I had one-piece spacers made. I did move the inner CA pivot point upward 3/8" (that's all the room I had with the crossmember I was using) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Looking at the pic it seems that the LCA and Tie Rod are parallel. Has this reduced your "Bump" steer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 It did help. I eventually went with a spacer that was "two and a half nuts long" as my final setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Ack! Bolts for spacers? Ack! Pssst. John. Those are nuts. N-U-T-S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 Thanks guys. Dan, I realise the best way to adjust camber is at the top as you are quite right, its a pain resetting the toe every time you made a change. That being said, you have to move the LCA outwards even more to get the range of adjustment I want at the top given the mounting of the strut (stock) is already at the inner edge (closest to middle of car). So you are stuck with the problem of needing the LCA longer (unless you relocate it as you have mentioned, but too scary for me at this stage I think). I like Terry's solution of heim linking the steering arm. Did you use the standard steering arm there terry? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Richard Shoots, HE SCORES!!!! N-U-T-S! Yes, yes johnC is... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 You guys are having too much fun! In answer too the question about the steering arm, yes it is the OEM arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 Ta. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Pushing the LCA's out by whatever means is one way of getting more track, a good thing for the S30. The eccentric camber adjusters on mine have never slipped, probably has something to do with their design because the same design is used in a lot of targa cars. And if they don't slip in that application............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Pushing the LCA's out by whatever means is one way of getting more track, a good thing for the S30 good point, especially in the front according to suspension guru JohnC The eccentric camber adjusters on mine have never slipped, probably has something to do with their design because the same design is used in a lot of targa cars. And if they don't slip in that application............ So do tell Richard.... what brand of eccentric bushing are those? Because all the folks who race say they slip and for IT it would be really cool to find some that don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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