Guest zfan Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 Well I am sick of the IRS rear end in my Z. I have given up on getting parts to rebuild a 3.70 ZXT LSD. I am seriously entertaining the installation of a 8.8 or maybe a 9" rear end. I need a set up that can take 500 rwhp and not fatigue and break. My current set up is just not up to the task. I have the complete 3.70 zxt lsd swap in my 240Z with cv's, billet adapters, 280 stubs and rear disc brake swap. I have replaced 2 lower control arms due to breakage in the past as well, not to mention half shafts before the swap. Don't know if the r230 is worth the work and will cost just as much to swap it as a 8.8 with true trac and 355 gears. If anyone has gone down this road I would appreciate any imput you could give. I have friends who did the 9" swap into a 280Z and 2 Jenson Healy's and they throw down the power with no worries at all. Thanks Mike Worth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 You might want to check with the great TurboMeister on this board. He got his Z with the 9--inch already installed, but he has pics, it is a nice setup. It obviously hooks pretty well, checkk his times. Good luck on your install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 wasn't stony in the process of getting one in his z? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jap tin Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 In my Z before my current one I did a back half with 2X3 rails, a 4 link and the stock front suspension. Worked out pretty good, mid 9's on the back half Z. The new one with a full tube chassis wacked anothe second off the old back half set up. Put in a nine inch and don't worry about breaking the irs stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I have a 1993 Ford Musatang GT rear end posi if you want it $100 and its yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Japtin, What would be a realistic price/cost to do a 9" or 8.8 swap in a Z. Having never done this before I am working up the list but am sure I will miss some things. I am guessing 2k for now but no telling! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 if your talking a show car or street driving install i guess you could do it for that much. but if your looking for 9s or better try 5K + Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Dr. Hunt was in the process of detailing the "How to" part of a 8.8/ 9" rear conversion in ACAD using a ladder bar setup, and then later was also going to document a 4 link 9" setup. I haven't seen anything yet, and I feel like a friggin buzzard as many times as I've been circling this forum for this writeup. I'm sure when he gets a chance he'll get to this. There is no way I'm hitting the strip without a solid rear in my Z... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted December 26, 2006 Share Posted December 26, 2006 There is no way I'm hitting the strip without a solid rear in my Z... Why is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two40MuscleZ Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 I have a one-off Morrison custom rear 4-Link Clip with a cut down Ford 9" in my '72 MuscleZ. I had a new Currie 9+ rear end built with 4:11 gears in a Detroit Locker set up. Also, new Currie 31 Spline axles were cut. To finish it off you will need an 8-12 point roll cage, tin kit and wheel tub kit. There were a few other goodies included, but the cost for everything from Morrison including shipping WA to CA was around $3,600. The Currie 9+ third member and axles were $1,400. Wilwood rear disc braks were another $700. If you can weld and have access to one, that will save you some money. My clip was spec'd for Ultra Wide Mickey Thompson Pro Sport: 29"x18.5"x15" mounted on Centerline 15"x15" ConvoPros. It's a bit pricey to do the conversion, but after its done...nothing else really compaires. Here are some PICS... Enjoy! VAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo_fb Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 sweet. and I thought 700$ for a complete Z31 88ss rear diff with cv was expencive so I'd rather go with a Volvo rear end.... uhmm z31 diff here I come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Why is that? Well, I hammer the hell out of everything I drive and don't want to worry about breaking the IRS. I know there are many out there that have a high power car and IRS, and some of these IRS's live to fight another day- but IMHO it's a bomb waiting to explode. I drive to the track and don't want to leave my ride behind when it breaks. I'm not concerned about corner carving and I also want to be legal when racing this car at the track. Every track I know frowns at an IRS at the ET's I plan on running, and will kick you off after 1 pass... 600 rwhp @ 2800 lbs should be good for 6.20's and high 9's- and that will get you booted in a hurry, and a T-56 will torque shock the chassis like a transbrake car or worse. YIKES! Besides, a have a high powered fox body Stang so I'm used to it handling like a go cart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 BS, with the proper safety equipment, you will not get booted for IRS when in the 9's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 BS, with the proper safety equipment, you will not get booted for IRS when in the 9's. That may be true with some tracks certainly, but not always the case. I'm not sure of the ET, but there is certainly an ET cutoff for IRS cars in the NHRA rulebook for sanctioned tracks. I should rephrase my statement and say you could get booted in a hurry. I think the cutoff is 10.99 but I'm not sure, maybe someone else knows this for sure. Maybe the rules have changed??? The reason I say this because I have seen it happen firsthand at Texas Motorplex in Ennis, Tx. I rolled up in pre race tech and they were giving a guy hell in a Supra for running too fast and were warning him not to repeat the ET/mph he had just run. Both of the tech guys had been under the car.. I looked around, saw a full cage in the car and the guy had a full fire suit, neck collar, etc. and everything looked to be in order, so much so that I was worried that mine might not pass... The guy had an NHRA license that he offered, and the car was sporting a parachute. The guy was being a little bit argumentative but I only heard just the tail end of the discussion so there may have been something else going on- but since he looked "legal" I inquired as too why he was being warned and all the tech official said was "That damned IRS". The ironic thing here was that several months later I was at a NOPI event in Ennis and there were numerous IRS cars there running very fast- In fact that same Supra was there running 8.90's at around 160....Not a peep from the tech guys, go figure. I guess it's up to the track and if the tech crew wants to be asses...My point was that I didn't want to deal with it since I know that a solid axle is legal and I drag race exclusively. I'm not even saying that an IRS isn't a good, dependable setup and I'm not trying to talk it down- It's just not something I feel I want for my car. My other reason for wanting a solid axle is for safety. I know that breaking a stub axle isn't as likely at the top end of the track, but I don't like the idea of it happening and only the caliper holding the wheel on!!! Correct me if I'm wrong but if a stub axle goes, nothing is holding the wheel, correct? :eek: and yes, I plan on running C clip eliminators on my 8.8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lason Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Dont run c clip eliminators. If you already cutting the ends off to narrow it then just weld on 9" ends. Moser has ends that use 9" bearings and retaining plates and still use the 8.8 brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Dont run c clip eliminators. If you already cutting the ends off to narrow it then just weld on 9" ends. Moser has ends that use 9" bearings and retaining plates and still use the 8.8 brakes. Hmm, I like that idea. How is your conversion going? Getting closer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaNoZeta Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 I got my own questions on this. We all know the driveshaft is really short for the Z. I was wondering if this shorter driveshaft causes problems with the U-joints during the up and down movement? The way I see it, the shortness of the driveshaft makes it have to angle up or down more for the bump and rebound of the live axle. Is this why all the examples I see of a solid axle in a Z are all back-halved cars? Can it be fit in the back with keeping with the factory frame rails and floorboard, what kind of clearance problems are there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 I have a one-off Morrison custom rear 4-Link Clip with a cut down Ford 9" in my '72 MuscleZ. I had a new Currie 9+ rear end built with 4:11 gears in a Detroit Locker set up. Also, new Currie 31 Spline axles were cut. To finish it off you will need an 8-12 point roll cage, tin kit and wheel tub kit. There were a few other goodies included, but the cost for everything from Morrison including shipping WA to CA was around $3,600. The Currie 9+ third member and axles were $1,400. Wilwood rear disc braks were another $700. If you can weld and have access to one, that will save you some money. My clip was spec'd for Ultra Wide Mickey Thompson Pro Sport: 29"x18.5"x15" mounted on Centerline 15"x15" ConvoPros. It's a bit pricey to do the conversion, but after its done...nothing else really compaires. Here are some PICS... Enjoy! VAN Is this car done??? any updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Well, I am getting ready to install mine, so there will be alot of pictures in the upcoming weeks. Cost. Well I have the following. Narrowed 9 inch housing for 45 inch WF to WF with WAR center section $400 Wilwood street Disc Brakes and Moser 31 splined Axles $1050 Used Nasar Detroit Locker $300 New Bearings $30 4 link kit $240 3.25 gears $70 Total is $2090 Piece of mind, priceless! I still have to get tubs and sheet metal as well as 2x3 tubing and the norm DIY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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