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T5, Tremec TKO and the dreaded Hydrailics issue...


Mikelly

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So yesterday I moved the car from it's spot in the garage over to my service bay where the Vette normally sits, and were the lift is. I also moved the motor, the motor lift, and the transmission/bellhousing over to the front of the car. I then cleaned up and pulled the Vette into the Datsun's place and called it a night.

 

Today, I went out, lifted the motor and unbolted it from it's little engine stand, bolted the block out plate and flywhee up, and attached the transmission to the motor. I had installed the clutch fork on the ball. Once all that was done and the mounts were bolted up, I took the S&S header and checked it for clearance on the clutch fork and there is PLENTY.

 

NOW, I was going to use an internal hydraulic release bearing, but I really don't like dicking with the one on my C5, so I am in search of a slave cylinder that will work with the Mcleod bellhousing and give the correct amount of stroke. It must be a PUSH style.

 

This WILL work, and the bellhousing is made to use one, but the question is which one... I'm posting this here because this has been discussed in other threads. I'll post what I find as I search. Anyone else with ideas, please feel free to chime in. First search will be on Chevy Talk...

 

In the meantime, I'm going to go ahead and install the motor and transmission so I can finish up the trans mount. I'll have to remove it all to install my clutch kit, and to remove the 1/8th inch of material from the flywheel face as McLeod requires for their bellhouisng. However, That'll be easy enough with the car on the lift and my trans jack in place... I'd love to be able to throw fire to this beast within the next 30 days!

 

The plan is to copy this sort of: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=92406

 

Mike

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Mike,

This might not help, but I bought a hydraulic release bearing from Keisler. I don't know what brand it is, maybe Sachs, but I was told that it is OEM for BMW and other European cars. It does not have a bleeder like the Hayes, and is very nicely made. I am still in the prep for paint phase, but expect this unit to be great. You might want to give them a cal at least and ask about it.

 

Why do you have to remove 1/8 inch from the flywheel? Where? I think I am using the same bellhousing as you, and did not see anything about removing material. I am using the lighter OEM Camaro flywheel though, 153 Tooth, maybe that is the difference.

 

Joshua

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Joshua, In the paperwork that came with my bellhousing it outlined that UNLESS the flywheel was from Mcleod (And they gave a partnumber) you would have to have 1/8th inch material removed from the face of the flywheel.

 

The only reason I'm going with an external setup is for the easy of bleeding and replacement. When I called Keisler, they didn't want to give me the part number for the release bearing you you have and told me the cost would be $300. The other units I've looked at from McLeod and Tilton, although very well made, are very expensive as well, and if I can use an external setup, it will be easy to maintain and bleed, plus repair/ replacement won't be a big deal.

 

Mike

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I had a little bit of a dull ache in my lower back yesterday afternoon that grew into a full on "pulled lower back" last night. Six 220mgs of Aleve, and two glasses of the Macallen 12 year scotch got me through last night. This morning I woke up to about 6-8inches of the white stuff, which is NOT normal for us. There's no way I'm going to even look at a snow shovel... Not a chance! :roll:

 

So, needless to say, I will NOT be installing the motor and trans today. I'm going to wait until the back is feeling a little better. I WILL go ahead and order the clutch kit, and get that coming to me. :2thumbs:

 

Mike

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Well, I'll make you feel a little bit better Mike. I finished up clearing the driveway and sidewalks a little while ago. Are you ready ....... 15.5 inches. Yea, we get more snow up here then you do, but 15.5 is still a LOT of snow. As I always say I love snow, once it melted, had salt and tropical fish added.

 

Hope your back feels better,

 

- Joe

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..Six 220mgs of Aleve, and two glasses of the Macallen 12 year scotch got me through last night....

 

If that doesn't do it, nothing short of morphine will. Hope the back gets better! :2thumbs:

 

BTW, it's been a healthy 65 degrees and clear for the past three days here :mrgreen:

 

Davy

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Mike, is it just muscle spasm in the lower back, or nerve pain and leg nerve stuff?

 

I was goofing around with the Dart block a few months ago (without the freaking engine hoist that was 10 feet away - duh!) and really screwed my back up. You know, "I'm stronger than the average bear and can man handle this thing." Damn I'm stupid sometimes! Resul: Acutely herniated L4-L5 disc that's pushing REALLY bad on the nerve roots there. Every thing from lower back muscle spasms, a shorter right leg due to the muscles always being tight, numbness in my right foot, the feeling that someone has always kicked me in the nuts 5 minutes ago, and walking with a MEAN limp. 1 epidural cortisone shot later helped some...

 

Take care of the back, dude, we're not getting any younger (and some of us no wiser!!!)

 

I hope it's just a muscle spasm.

 

Oh, I did some shoveling today. We got like 14 inches or so. Thankfully my neighbor took care of 80% of it with his snow blower!

 

 

Good luck with the clutch. Seriously, you're doing this the hard way - just do the hydraulic bearing!

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I feel 100% better 36 hours later. I think it was just pulled muscles. I'm still a little stiff, but I'll be better by mid week for sure. I've got a busy schedule this week, but I plan to install the motor/tranny by the weekend.

 

Pete, I think the external slave cylinder is going to be MUCH easier than we originally thought. This is going to be cake, about $50 in parts and some fabrication for a bracket. This is really that simple. Once I get the motor and trans in place, I will finish up the wiring and then the dash, and start on the rear Q45 craddle.

 

Mike

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Good to hear your back is better. BTW, after taking 800MG of ibuprofin for a day or two, my back is better. Not just masking the pain from muscle spasms, but the anti-inflamation properties tend to shrink the disc inflamation and get them off the nerve roots, etc. (Your spinal cord technically ends inches above your lower back, from there down it's still encsed in the dural tube, but they are nerve roots, not the spinal cord at that point).

 

You have no interference from the clutch fork and the tranny tunnel? That's the typical reason to go for the hydraulic bearing. It certainly is nice not having the hydraulics go into the bellhousing where you can't fix a leak easily, etc., but the OEs have been running hydraulic bearings for decades and they aren't problematic. Of course, if you go with a stiff pressure plate, it exacerbates the problems of leaking hydraulics. But that's not something I'd do for a track car any way (if extra pressure on the disc(s) were needed to hold the torque)- I'd be looking at a dual disc setup with less pressure and moment of inertia.

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Well after talking on the phone with the folks from Midway Industries Tech line (Centerforce), I ordered the following part numbers for my clutch setup:

 

CFT361675 - Pressure Plate

LM384161 - Clutch Disk

N1716 - Release Bearing

 

I'll be picking up a chevy truck hydraulic master cylinder today or tomorrow, and I'll go ahead and set it all up with the motor out of the car. I've gotten the tech info for clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate, the throw of the arm on the clutch fork, as well as the rest of the setup documentation. By the time all that comes in, I'll be ready to install the motor and tranny and my back will have fully recovered, although it feels rather well today! :2thumbs:

 

The place I ordered the parts from was VERY reasonable and has free shipping! :2thumbs:

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance/psearch.php?part_number=384161

 

Total on parts and shipping was about $275 for everything... That's about $45 less than Summit or Jegs! :2thumbs:

Mike

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I ordered the Clutch kit on MONDAY Feb 13th and it arrived on TUESDAY Feb 14th... FREE shipping... WOW... Good customer service and $40-50ish cheaper than Jegs and Summit... WOW! :2thumbs:

 

Today, If time permits, I'll go ahead and install the clutch and pressure plate, and button it all up. I want to get it all ready for the Slave Cylinder bracket fabrication and then get the whole thing installed in the car so I can move on to the rear of the car.

 

Strongly recommend you guys checking out autopartswarehouse for prices before buying another part for your swaps!! :cheers:

 

Mike :cool:

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I hate when Pete's right. I measured and measured and thought this was gonna work with the clutch fork... Not only is the clutch for hitting the trans tunner, but SO IS THE BELLHOUSING! :shock:

 

So Saturday, I'll lower the tail of the tranny with the car up in the air, and I'll get my BFH out and see if I can massage the tunnel enough to clear everything. I might actually have to remove the clutch fork, cut and reweld it about half inch shorter... We'll see... :roll:

 

On the plus side, the motor is in the car (hopefully for the last time) but without the headers on it.

 

Mike

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I have been following this thread because I am in the process of trying to figure out what tranny to go with in my SBC swap - it's the last big item I need to buy before actually doing the swap. I keep flip-flopping between manual and automatic, but right now I am set on a T5 or TKO 5 speed.

 

I too will have an hydraulic clutch set up, and am I right that you are saying that it is better to use an hydraulic bearing because of fitment problems with the clutch fork or slave cylinder? What does the use of an hydraulic bearing eliminate in solving the fitment problem? Sorry for the dumb questions - I have no experience with installing manual transmissions and it seems to be a bit of a black box to me.

 

Dave

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Yup, the clutch fork is hitting the firewall/ tranny tunnel on the driver's side. Bill I'll get pics out this weekend...

 

I'll likely end up with that $350-ish hybdraulic bearing setup instead of the clutch fork/ throwout bearing... We'll see after I look at it this weekend.

 

Mike

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I just wanted to say hello, I have been reading your posts and didnt realize that you live in my hometown. What part of town do you live in? I was born at MWH, almost graduated from James Monroe before moving. If you know where Aunt Sarah's Pancake house is by the mall, I used to live in that old farm house behind it and Captain D's. Do you have any pics of your Z in town that you could post? I moved in 1991 to Lexington Park, MD and have only been back once in 98/99. I love to see some of the changes that is always happening to Fredericksburg, VA.

 

-Rick

 

 

"First and Foremost, I am a Virginian"

- Jefferson

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Rick, This town has exploded since I moved here some 18 years ago. I was 22 when I moved out of my parents home in Orange County, Va. and eventually into an appartment in Fredericksburg. This town has just exploded. I live over off Leavell's Road, out towards Courtland High School. I've got a modest home in an average subdivision, but our town's population has grown to staggering numbers. We're well above a Million residents in the surrounding counties that use/shop/live in and around Fredericksburg. Most drive North into Northern Virginia, Washington DC, and Maryland to work.

 

You can see some pics of our place and "stuff" in general here:

 

http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z Lots of folders and pics of "stuff"! :2thumbs:

 

My guess is if you came to Fredericksburg now, you wouldn't notice it at all! :shock:

 

Mike

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I hate when Pete's right. I measured and measured and thought this was gonna work with the clutch fork... Not only is the clutch for hitting the trans tunner, but SO IS THE BELLHOUSING! :shock:

Mike called me the other night to admit it too. I laughed histerically for a minute or so :). :flamedevi:malebitch

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