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Nismo R200 CLSD oil cooler project


bjhines

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I am very concerned about heat damage over time.... I do not expect to work on this rear end every season.. I would like it to last at least 8-10 seasons of abuse.... that is roughly 80-100 events...

 

More power to you, I hope you get those results! With around 200 hp most of the ITS guys I know rebuilt their clutch pack LSDs at least every 2 years and the couple GT2 guys I knew who were running coolers and heat exchangers rebuilt their diffs on about the same schedule.

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I am seriously looking into safety wiring the ring gear bolts..... I just don't trust locktight... I have not been able to purchase the original locking compound that Nissan used...

 

Drilling the hole was realatively easy.... The housing material is soft... it drills and taps as easily as aluminum...actually it taps MUCH BETTER than aluminum... it cuts cleanly without gouging... and it does not clog the tap... I used 6 little rare earth magnets on both sides while I was drilling... they caught EVERYTHING...I drilled the hole upside down and nose high for insurance.... I wrapped the pinion in a plastic baggie... but the magnets really did catch every bit of metal...

 

The carrier just pops out once you remove the cap bolts... I did have to use a plastic mallet to knock it out into a plastic bin on a wood floor... that sucker is heavy and you would not want it to hit concrete....

 

But it is really not that bad to remove differential carriers.. the R180 style or the R200 style... I prefer to work on the R180s... they really do come apart easily...

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  • 6 years later...

I got some results back from the track on heat in the LOM-59 CLSD in my R200 3.54 rear end. I was really able to push it hard and the temps just keep climbing the whole time I am out there. It get's to 300f in about 6- 7 laps. It is pegging the gauge(>340f) after 10-12 hard laps. That is 20-30 minutes of hard driving, depending on the track. I am definitely going to add the pump for the cooler and get some new test results next outing.

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I'm having trouble with a little oil coming out of my stock diff vent. If it continues (I could be a little over filled) i plan to add a little hose to it and remote the vent a little so the oil doesn't run all over my new,pretty diff. Anything wrong with that plan? I think this is on subject so please gently correct me if I'm thread jacking.

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I have run into that problem on track often. The mushroom vents will melt down eventually, I pull the plastic vent-remains and tap the hole for NPT threads. install a hose nipple and run the hose up to a metal fuel filter with the open end up. It is a catch can that drains back. I just zip tied it to the brake line to keep it up high.

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We ran a line off our EP car to a remote vent and it still overflowed some. you best bet is a vented catch/expansion tank (we will be adding one for next year). As far as running a oil cooler/pump I would call Greg Ira, he had issues with his power bruit lsds on his EP car and added a pump setup. He is a super nice guy and will be able to give you the optimum setup. He has a web page that has his number give him a call. Another source is Sam Neave at LNA enterprises he does a lot of race setups on NISSANS.

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I have run into that problem on track often. The mushroom vents will melt down eventually, I pull the plastic vent-remains and tap the hole for NPT threads. install a hose nipple and run the hose up to a metal fuel filter with the open end up. It is a catch can that drains back. I just zip tied it to the brake line to keep it up high.

 

 

Got any pics of this set up?

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I found some pics

 

This is the LOM-59 12 disk, 2 way, low ramp angle, low breakaway/pre-load, with a forged cross.

R200NISMOnumbers2.jpg

NISMOLSDhalfstackhighcontrast.jpg

 

Here is the prepped rear cover with NPT barbed vent, temp sender, and tapped drain connector.differentialprep.jpg

 

Here is a shot under the car showing the filter, hoses, and the vent can as high as it will go, with a road draft tube coming back down.

 

IMAG0534.jpg

 

IMAG0532.jpg

 

...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Something to consider- in the FD RX7's, they have a big problem with the diffs overheating ESP with a swapped 8.8 diff. tests have been run when running the ford 8.8 diff,(what I had in mine). Tests of temps in both the FD and the Ford Cobra showed the exhaust really put some heat in the diff. Wrapping the exhaust pipes near the diff kept the temps from continually rising ESP in the cobras the had two pipes under the diff like you have. Their assessment was the exhaust pipes were the source of much of the heat. In mine, it stopped the "puking" out the top vent.

Food for thought.

Bobby

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Sweet!!!

 

Have you posted this on the IT forums?

 

They need to liven up the technical postings there.

 

Diff coolers are not legal in IT. That's why we cooked the fluid in our R180s all the time. You also learn how to swap a hot diff between practice and qualifying, by yourself, in less then 35 minutes.

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I will have to consider the exhaust issue. It is unlikely the exhaust tubing can transfer enough heat to cook the differential, but... exhaust heat could interfere with the ability for the differential to dissipate heat as it builds up.

It takes a full hard session to peg the diff temp gauge. That is ~ 20 minutes to get to 350f.

It takes 20-30 minutes for the diff to cool back down(<150f.) between runs.

That is not too bad considering I run it in time trials and practice sessions.

 

The engine oil and water temps reach a peak in ~6-8 minutes of hard laps. [[oil=240f. water=210f.]]. Engine temps cool down quickly when I take it easy on the cool-down lap [[oil=180f water=180f]].

The diff temp just keeps rising. I would have stopped if it pegged the gauge earlier, but it takes a full session to get that hot.

Edited by bjhines
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You don't need track sessions to melt the plastic cover vent on an R180 for sure! I melted mine off towing a small trailer to Phoenix one summer. Went synthetic oil afterwards.

 

The R200 is marginally better, but they still get hot. For someone driving the desert southwest at highway speeds...stick a VW Head Temp Gauge (thermocouple) on the cover and prepared to be amazed they last as long as they do!huh.gif

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