naviathan Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Is that the webber tripple throttle body intake? Looks just like the one I bought from Top End Performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted June 19, 2006 Author Share Posted June 19, 2006 These are the TWM models. Got mine thru Redline.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Yeah, so are the ones from TEP. Here's the page I picked mine up from. Race TEP I haven't had a chance to go through it, but I bought it all. The TEC3, throttle bodies, linkage, fuel rail, injectors, pump, intake..etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Got the engine painted graphite and installed the freeze plugs. Used permatex #1 for the sealant. Timing cover is painted black. Today I will go out and get the waterpump. Then I will have to source timing cover bolts. 30+ views in the wanted ads but no help. Damn. Also will need to find 2 of the thick washers that pinch the intake and exhaust manifolds together. Hope junkyard has them. Parts store looks at me with the retarded look... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Goto a hardware store with a good inventory of bolts and washers. Should be something there to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Well I have succesfully found 4 of the 11 timing cover bolts from the local hardware store. Will take the 45 minute drive to the next town to use their home depot / lowe's. The longer bolts are the problematic ones.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workinprogress Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Just get the stainless engine bolt set from pallnet and be done with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 Boy do I wish I had know Pallnet had a Bolt kit. I spent 3 hours in the desert heat scouring a junkyard to find the correct ones. However there was a N42 head there as well. Will go back for it as a spare..Absolutely love the L6. $40 for a brand new lifetime warranty water pump. Will also get the turbo oil pump and alternator this week. It has gotten to where I just sit in the garage and look at it sometimes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 It has gotten to where I just sit in the garage and look at it sometimes... I recently had an electrical issue in my garage which made all outlets, garage door and ceiling fan not work and I still find myself sitting in the garage sweating a puddle under me while I stare at the engine sitting on the stand. It's sickening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaysZ Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 I recently had an electrical issue in my garage which made all outlets, garage door and ceiling fan not work and I still find myself sitting in the garage sweating a puddle under me while I stare at the engine sitting on the stand. It's sickening. thats hilarious, i do that too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 Ok So I worked out a deal for a fulle built N42 head. Large intake and exhaust valves, eyebrowed, ported and polished. Chambers have been worked and it comes with a build sheet to answer any questions. When I get back from my trip to Japan I will drag my car from the body shop and look out. Here comes trouble..All after proper clutch and motor break in naturally...But after that look out. This HAKOSUKA is meant to be driven... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 23, 2006 Author Share Posted July 23, 2006 Without stirring up a complete sh*t storm I am in need of some assistance. Prefferably from the 3.1 guys or simply anyone who understands cams. I am cam retarded. I have the head. Ports are huge, chanmbers have been smoothed out as well. The intake and exhaust valves are undercut and oversized as well, bigger than N42 valves. I have the following specs already from the build sheet. Valve spring Assembly installed height 1.600 seat pressure 100 open pressure 240 open height 1.100 coil bind 1.015 seal/retainer .550 There is also a note reading no more lift than .520" Granted all the above means nothing if I change it out. I am looking for a cam that really puts out some power. I have flat top pistons and a big triple set up. Headgasket I have not purchased yet so it is another variable. 91 octane is all I can find in my area. Please send something my way to help me out...Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 You can use anything from MSA up to a stage 4. Check their cams out. Everyone uses the same blanks for l28 cams now that Nissan quit producing them so there's really nothing different between manufacturers except the grinds. Where are you going with this project? A fun street car would be a stage 2 maybe stage 3. Full on I only drive it at the track would be stage 4. The stage 1 is mostly for a stock engine with very little work done. Stage 3 is pushing the street car though as the idle will get rough and you may need to bump it up some. Note: I only have experience with MSA cams, anyone else would be equally as good, but I'm not sure what their grind specs are. MSA Cams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 You can use anything from MSA up to a stage 4. Check their cams out. Everyone uses the same blanks for l28 cams now that Nissan quit producing them so there's really nothing different between manufacturers except the grinds. Where are you going with this project? A fun street car would be a stage 2 maybe stage 3. Full on I only drive it at the track would be stage 4. The stage 1 is mostly for a stock engine with very little work done. Stage 3 is pushing the street car though as the idle will get rough and you may need to bump it up some.Note: I only have experience with MSA cams' date=' anyone else would be equally as good, but I'm not sure what their grind specs are. MSA Cams I ran a .490/280 cam similar to the Stage 4 MSA cam on my 8.3:1 compression L28 daily driver for 5 years with a 12 lb flywheel and ACT clutch, and now I'm using the same on my 11:1 compression L28. Everyone tends to go small on L cams. My take: Stage 1 isn't worth the effort Stage 2 isn't worth the effort Stage 3 is a MILD cam, but it's as big as you can go with CRAPPY stock FI Stage 4 is a medium sized cam Stage 5 is big Regrind is a better idea IMO (better metallurgy) and a hell of a lot cheaper. BRAAP had done that .520 lift regrind for Silent. That's the sort of thing I'd be looking for. You've got BIG HIGH RPM induction. You're going to be bummed if you use a small cam. BTW it looks like the thing that is preventing you from using a larger cam than that is the springs. A set of Schneider springs is good for over .600 lift IIRC. Stage 3 MSA cam is the third stage of wussiness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oinojo Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 I ran a .490/280 cam similar to the Stage 4 MSA cam on my 8.3:1 compression L28 daily driver for 5 years with a 12 lb flywheel and ACT clutch' date=' and now I'm using the same on my 11:1 compression L28. Everyone tends to go small on L cams. My take: Stage 1 isn't worth the effort Stage 2 isn't worth the effort Stage 3 is a MILD cam, but it's as big as you can go with CRAPPY stock FI Stage 4 is a medium sized cam Stage 5 is big Regrind is a better idea IMO (better metallurgy) and a hell of a lot cheaper. BRAAP had done that .520 lift regrind for Silent. That's the sort of thing I'd be looking for. You've got BIG HIGH RPM induction. You're going to be bummed if you use a small cam. BTW it looks like the thing that is preventing you from using a larger cam than that is the springs. A set of Schneider springs is good for over .600 lift IIRC. Stage 3 MSA cam is the third stage of wussiness.[/quote'] i agree, stage 1-3 cams are a waste if you are looking for performance. I am running a stage 4 (.495/290) cam that was ground from my stock cam and its perfect for my twin su's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 Ok so I went back and re-read ZBARON's n/a 3.1L Head & Camshaft no short cuts thread. I really appreciate the replies in there from Dave240Z, Dan Baldwin and Jmortensen. I have also read posts from Brian510 and Zeiss150. I am pretty sold on the MSA stage 4 cam. 495/290. Other combinations I have read about range from 500/290 from Sunbelt thru 487/276 from Robello. The MSA is smack in the middle so I figure a good starting point. Anybody had one and are willing to share thoughts? Naviathan...Why are you running a stage 2 cam? You signature implies a pretty mean motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Go bigger than Stage 4... BIGGER... BIIIIGGGEEEEEERRRRR!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300. Characteristics: Excellent road race power, 4000-8500 RPM. Is the stage 5...I am running a LD crank. Granted the whole rotating assy was balanced with a BHJ damper and lightweight flywheel..8500 rpm's...How concerned do I need to be at the dreaded snapping crankshaft...Going to be more of a street car than a track racer.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 OK, but there are other cam manufacturers with other choices out there. I have a cam similar to the Stage 4 and I wish I had more cam. My engine isn't as built as yours by a long shot. I'm looking for low .500's lift and just over 300 duration. You can always change it out later, but if it were mine I start out bigger than the 4. I'd also figure out what the limitation is on the lift whether it is the springs or piston/valve interference and take steps now to alleviate that problem. If it's pistons that means flycutting the pistons. It looks like it might be the valve stem seals that are your limitation. Did you find the post by Speeder about the viton valve stem seals from a Ford? They would be quick and easy to swap out now... As to the crank snapping and the cam manufacturer's claim of 4-8500 powerband, if you look at Dan's motor or John Coffey's motor, they both have a bigger cam than the Stage 4 and they both had a redline of 7200 rpm. I know Dan is on the verge of streetable, maybe a little overkill. Iskone also has a very big cam on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 I guess what I'm saying is if you don't want to rev the piss out of it you shouldn't have the big valves and ported head and all the rest. I hope you're not thinking about low rpms on the freeway and stuff like that. You've built it for top end power, so cam it for top end power. My $.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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