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How to mount them there ZG Flares


240hoke

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Not to be an a$$, but this was all explained on page 1 in the very first post...

 

(Ok, except the bit about the ends, but it's pretty much the same principle)

 

Nigel

 

You clearly aren't following what I'm asking. It is not very clear that, depending on how far up you cut it, you may not be able to simply pound it out. Some have done it that way, yes. Obviously. It seems like, as I already asked about (and not on the first page), some use triangular patches. It seems a third way is to cut a long strip to go all the way around the semi-circular area in one shot.

As you admitted, the second question is not as evident.

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I've done all three methods when installing flares on the rear of the S30 and here's what I have learned:

 

1. You might as well cut the wheel well up to the attachment holes on the ZG flare. Leaving any metal below that just leaves you vulnerable to having to go back and cut/weld some more once the wheels and tires are fitted and the car is loaded with people and stuff.

 

2. The ZG flares can only be moved up an inch or maybe 1.5" from where they are designed/molded to fit.

 

3. Either of the three methods will work and it mostly depends on what you're comfortable with (welding or pounding), how straight the 1/4 panel is to begin with, and how clean you got everything (you can pound dirt, you can't weld it).

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So far I haven't cut anything, but have been slowly using a fender roller to push out the metal. I've actually only gotten the inner lip curled under so far, and it may rub when hitting large bumps or if I cornered hard. Once I start pulling it out I plan on making it nearly flush with the ZG flare. Hopefully that will solve the issue of any rubbing.

 

Yes, by the way, I am running the staggered rota RB set in 17x9, 17x9.5. No issues so far on the front (not even rolled yet), just the rears.

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So far I haven't cut anything, but have been slowly using a fender roller to push out the metal. I've actually only gotten the inner lip curled under so far, and it may rub when hitting large bumps or if I cornered hard. Once I start pulling it out I plan on making it nearly flush with the ZG flare. Hopefully that will solve the issue of any rubbing.

 

Yes, by the way, I am running the staggered rota RB set in 17x9, 17x9.5. No issues so far on the front (not even rolled yet), just the rears.

Same here with the RB set; just the Xenon bumper rubbing, but that's a different thread... :-)

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So far I haven't cut anything, but have been slowly using a fender roller to push out the metal. I've actually only gotten the inner lip curled under so far, and it may rub when hitting large bumps or if I cornered hard. Once I start pulling it out I plan on making it nearly flush with the ZG flare.

 

I'm confused. If you've worked the stock fender out to give the same clearance as a cut fender with ZG flare, why not just nicely finish the stock fender and have something unique?

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Same here with the RB set; just the Xenon bumper rubbing, but that's a different thread... :-)

 

Me too, I just trimmed the inside corner a little bit, no more front wheel rub.

 

 

I'm confused. If you've worked the stock fender out to give the same clearance as a cut fender with ZG flare, why not just nicely finish the stock fender and have something unique?

 

Because it would ruin the look. :)

 

Z137.jpg

 

I've almost got the look of the car *perfect* for where I want it to be. Granted, I may still cut and weld the fenders. But I'd like to see if I can avoid an essentially irreversible modification.

 

EDIT: Amazingly enough, its the ZG flares that make my car unique around here. Until about a week ago, I was the only person in our club that had them on their Z. As of now, I'm the only person with the combination of ZG flares AND fender mirrors, not to mention an orange and black car.

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I've almost got the look of the car *perfect* for where I want it to be. Granted, I may still cut and weld the fenders. But I'd like to see if I can avoid an essentially irreversible modification.

Pull the spring on one side, put the suspension back together and jack up the control arm. If the tire hits the fender, then you need to cut it. Looks to me (judging from the pictures, which might not be the most accurate) like you have about 2" of travel before the tire hits the fender lip. In other words, your tire/fender lip contact point is now the bumpstop in the suspension. Not good.

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Has anyone had any experience with the ebay universal flares?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Fender-Flare-Corolla-AE86-Fairlady-240Z-S13-180sx_W0QQitemZ200379011597QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea785120d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

 

I know you get what you pay for, but I have seen these go for cheap....:shock:

 

If someone has tried them, I would love to know how they fit, and what it took to get them to fit.

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Has anyone had any experience with the ebay universal flares?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Fender-Flare-Corolla-AE86-Fairlady-240Z-S13-180sx_W0QQitemZ200379011597QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea785120d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

 

I know you get what you pay for, but I have seen these go for cheap....:shock:

 

If someone has tried them, I would love to know how they fit, and what it took to get them to fit.

 

 

No. I wouldn't go that way. The flares made for our S30Z cars are molded to form the curves of the car, something those generic flares would have to be modified to do so.

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Has anyone had any experience with the ebay universal flares?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Fender-Flare-Corolla-AE86-Fairlady-240Z-S13-180sx_W0QQitemZ200379011597QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea785120d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

 

I know you get what you pay for, but I have seen these go for cheap....:shock:

 

If someone has tried them, I would love to know how they fit, and what it took to get them to fit.

 

the flares don't look like they'd even fit. and you'd need t drill holes into them. what are they, rubber? is it easy to drill through rubber? i'd just save up the extra however many dollars to buy legit fenders.

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I bought a set of those (130.00 + 20.00 shipping). They are fiberglass. They fit fine but be ready to do alot of rework and cleaning up. All of them have varying widths and blobs of fiberglass residue where the bolts go. The seller claims they are the same which is not the case.

 

They will need to re-sanded, curve edges straightened, and overall surface filled and sanded appropriately.

 

Final verdict: Spend the extra 60-70 bucks for the ZG flares. The rework and quality do not compare to the ZG flares. I will make these work for me but I would not buy these again.

 

I'll post pics later in case you want to see what they look like. I am still not finished reworking them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Has anyone had any experience with the ebay universal flares?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Fender-Flare-Corolla-AE86-Fairlady-240Z-S13-180sx_W0QQitemZ200379011597QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea785120d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

 

I know you get what you pay for, but I have seen these go for cheap....:shock:

 

If someone has tried them, I would love to know how they fit, and what it took to get them to fit.

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Here are some pics of the ebay flare test mounted on rear:

 

 

After seeing those, you can add me to the list of those who suggest getting the ZG flares from MSA or a similar Z supplier. For the few extra bucks, you'll be happier with the finished project.

Dennis

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I got a set of the cheap clones from the ebay guy in Thailand, it was 220 CAD with shipping, trying to get ones from the states is almost double that price. If your in Canada, they arnt bad, little thin, not a great conture so they need to bend into place. If your on a tight budget, go for it.

 

45017047.jpg

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Thanks guys for the advice. And way to go with the pics, cause that was gonna be my next request.

 

Meph, yours are supposed to be the ZG knock-offs.... which I would imagine would fit better than the ebay universal set. Your car looks great by the way.

 

I may still watch the set on ebay and hope to get a set for like $50, which should justify the extra work. I can not see paying $150 for them however.

 

If I do end up with a set, I will post my experience.

 

Thank you so much for the help.

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