djbit

Eastwood 135 here..no issues after about 6 months. I am currently doing my 72 Z floors. The ability to adjust the amperage is a big plus specially when mating new and old sheet metal.

I got the Eastwood 135 for 299.00 and a CO2 + Argon mix bottle. Works great for sheetmetal. The HF 90amp flux welder was making holes left and right for me but did an okay job for muffler pipes and heavier metals. Once I get the a bit more experience I'm shooting for a the Eastwood 175 that comes with a gun for aluminum.

I got the HF 90AMP flux welder as well and I have zero welding experience. I'm practicing for the most part on scrap exhaust pipes I have laying around and pieces of sheet metal (18-20guage). Anything thinner than exhaust pipe will blow a hole (at least for me). I have mine set at almost zero wire feed and on min when trying to do the sheet metal. I'm also using Hobart .30 wire (big difference from HF wire, in a good way) and some splatter resistant gel. These items help but I still find it difficult to not to blow holes through. I think it's just too hot for sheet metal and this coupled with my inexperience adds to the fail. I'm committed to doing my Z floors but I should have gotten the Eastwood 135 or saved up a little more for the Hobart 140. I have alot of more reading to do before taking the next step.

I did this on my floor panels that had been sitting in my garage for three years and it worked pretty good. I did run an orbital sander and drill with wire wheel before I applied the vinegar + water (1 to 4 ratio) mix. I applied some edging primer after wards since the panels are still sitting in my garage. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8_STIIF_x0

Did the Holley filter ever work out for anyone?

Congrats! Looks ridiculous....another awesome restoration. I can't wait to get there...yeah about .5 to 1 inch would be more practical but wow, what a great job! Did you have to do any of the floors or deal with heavy rust?

Your so right! I love that skit as well, lol.

I like simplicity. If I have to get a psychology degree to figure out what their intent was then I'm watching the wrong show. lol

That's neat you did that! Yes, as I looked at the pictures and videos I see how this could be a kit car. You can see the Haltech ECU, K&N filter, and Aeromotive FPR in some videos. I read on their web site that this car will be available to the US market in kit form only. The silver and black looks sweet. I give these guys props for having the balls to do this with all the negative news coming out of Mex lately.

I don't get the reason to insult anyone on a car show. Maybe I just don't watch the show enough. The times that I do watch it they seem to drive the car and give feedback as they are driving it. I guess skipping the driving and getting straight to the crap spewing gets more ratings. Anyways, I just didn't expect Mexico to come out with any type of car in my lifetime. Specially, a sports car that looks and performs pretty decent. I was expecting more of a 15 passenger van of some sort, lol. TopGear, call me.

This car, after further reading, was designed by Mexican Engineers and it is hand made in Mexico. The power plant is a Ford 2.0 with turbo (250hp/250torq). Yes, they sourced the Engine and tranny but the concept and design is all Mexican. http://mastrettacars.com/ Oh yeah, the TopGear, wow, what a shitty angle they took on this car. Instead of being happy, hey, Mexico's first car....they took the cheap route in my books. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Upmi95_p-y4

No, I believe this is 100% Mexican built and not a foreign company building cars in Mexico type of deal. But yeah, alot of foreign car manufacturing companies love the cheap labor Mexico offers etc..

Mexico is making it's first Sportscar ever (I think). Anyways, I give them props cause it looks pretty decent. Check it out: Mastretta MXT

Mine, still lots of work left to do.

When was the last time you changed your slave or master cylinders, clutch or pressure plate? In my case, I noticed a fluid leakage behind the master cylinder. I replaced both the master and slave while I was at it. This, however, was only one of the problems. The car continued behaving like yours in a month or so. I ended up replacing the clutch and pressure plate. The old pressure plate was was just too worned out. This solved my problem for good. It's been a year and the gears work fine. So, I would start my looking for any fluid leaks behind the master cylinder by the rubbers. Also, inspect the slave cylinder for the same. If you see any fluid leaking then replace them and fill it up with new fluid and see what happens. If you continue to experience the same, you have to replace your pressure plate (and clutch if it's old). My 2 cents.

Look at the 49 sec mark: :{

Here's the HY35 (the guy had to weld the actuator bracket):

Update: I decided to do a total rebuild of turbo and I was quoted ~350.00 which would include balancing and a new compressor wheel. I did a last minute Holset turbo search on ebay and I ran into a professionally rebuilt HY35. I ended up winning the action at 300.00. I have read that the HX35w has better flow characteristics but I think HY35 will also make me happy. Also, it won't require a spacer in the turbo manifold. My goal is anywhere between 300 to 375whp.

Thanks for the info!

Eventually I have to get one. I was actually looking into something like this: http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=131_108&products_id=119 I would shoot for 1 to 1.5 qts, specially, if it's getting mounted in the engine bay. How much are you looking to price those?

UPDATE: The local turbo charges me 150.00 for a new compressor wheel and balance (http://usedturbos.net/Catalog/Turbo-Rebuild.html). A full rebuild would be 350.00, they are adding the 100.00 for the compressor wheel. I found a place called BAE Turbo Systems (http://baeturbosystems.com/) where I can get a rebuild kit (55.00), http://baeturbosystems.com/turboservicekitformitsubishitd04td04l49177-80410oereplacement-2-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-2-1.aspx) and a new wheel (69.00, http://baeturbosystems.com/hx35.aspx.00). I can then get the local turbo shop to balance the new compressor wheel for 50.00. I will rebuild it myself, being more careful this time! So I started taking the turbo apart. The compressor wheel does not want to come off. I left it soaking with wd-40. It's supposed to come off after the nut is removed according to everything I have read, right?

I emailed a local turbo repair shop. I also did some more reading on this online. I think I may be able to get a new propeller and have them re-balance it. I can try to find a housing on ebay as well. If any one knows of a good shop of a turbo shop in San Diego Ca, please let me know. What a crappy weekend for my z project. Thanks guys. Alex

I wanted to clock my HX35W Holset turbo to a better angle, so I removed the big o-ring and decided to bang the housing out with a rubber hammer thing. At first, I could not turned the housing so I sprayed it with lubricant and it sorta started rotating. I started getting curious and decided to just remove the entrire housing. Maybe I could give it a good clean. It came out after a few bangs but I did not see the impeller from the front since I had taped up the front of the turbo. Long story short, I broke the edges of the three impeller fins and chipped and scratched the housing as well. Did I screw up the turbo, or can I just buy the impeller (blade)? I know it comes out and is a separate part but I don't see this included in any rebuild kits. Any one have any advice or a place that may be able to fix it or buy just the impeller? Will the housing still work, perhaps with a good polish? Thanks everyone!

I order a new sending unit from The Z Store. Also, ordered the O-Ring and the nut thingy. I might as well see what shape the tank is internally, I'm hoping I can peek in through the hole. If okay, I might as well paint it. If not, go get it refurbished. The fun never ends.

I found this gas leak from the back of tank where the sender unit connects. The connector things are very loose. I think I need to replace it. Do you guys know if they sell the part? Also, what would be the procedure to replace it. I just had filled up the tank too. Any advice would be appreciated. Car is 1972 240z. Thanks!