wickiewicked240z Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 New to the body and paint ......Im almost done with the rust repair i wanted to know if i can put bondo/fillers over etching primer or should i spray it with some high build primer then the bondo? I used the search but could not find what i was looking for........ thanks.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I think bondo must go on bare metal for good adhesion. And not to smooth at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted August 10, 2006 Author Share Posted August 10, 2006 would harbor freight sanding blocks work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Yes, you can put bondo over etching primer and sand it. You just have to reprimer it, before you do the wet sanding on it. good Luck, Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 If you freshly applied the SEP and applied body filler -Acid in the SEP will creep into the filler - get trapped - only to later bleed thru your paint job!!! And guess what the results would be! SEP is porous and needs to topcoated with primer surfacer or topcoat color. RacerX Hmm, does it bleed through as a yellowish haze? When you say "only to later bleed thru", about how much time are we talking about. Still trying to figure out what the body shop did to mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaconsultants Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I have done several body kits, custom flares, and a variety of other car body modifications and I still have never needed to use bondo. In my opinion I would not use that stuff at all. Rust repair I would say replace with new sheetmetal or use fiberglass with gelcote and thicker primer. Anyone that has ever worked close or with body shop guys can spot bondo on a car really quickly. Yes I know bondo is quicker, cheaper, and less effort, but you get what you pay for. If you try to mold in the headlight extensions on the Z with bondo they will end up cracking apart. This is just a recommendation to you guys about not using Bondo because I have seen lots of those results and I have done some very nice cars with a few that ended up being show cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Zed Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I think bondo must go on bare metal for good adhesion. And not to smooth at that. Funny how people believe that. Bondo will stick to primer, or even paint (not polished paint obviously). Putting bondo onto bare metal is a good way to make your car rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I will not use bondo again on a car. Go to a auto paint store and get some of the new flexible fillers that are on the market, you will be a lot happier with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Funny how people believe that. Bondo will stick to primer' date=' or even paint (not polished paint obviously). Putting bondo onto bare metal is a good way to make your car rust.[/quote'] People believe it because that's what the directions on the can say. If you apply it to bare metal you'd better seal it up quickly, because bondo is like a sponge. OP, I was impressed with Omni MP170 epoxy primer on my car. Perhaps you can shoot a coat of epoxy of the etching primer, body work ontop of the epoxy, and go from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 bondo is nothing to be scared if it is put on correctly and not a inch thick at a time. it can be put on over bare metal, paint, and primers....but they need to be a modern product and well prepaired....clean area the sand w a corse paper like 80 grit or so...people that are against fillers usualy just end up spraying their primer as thick as the filler and waste a ton on money...filler does have a period during the curing when heat is given off...the stuff gets pretty hot...the thicker the hotter..thats why it has been known to blister paint and cause it to turn loose....if your paint is crap and peeling off yes it might fall off...your paint will be stuck to the back side of the filler...it does not just fall out...i'm a firefighter but did and still do on occasion paint cars...i guess i'm on a pro level...i still go to the paint store weekly and get supplys.. i have never had filler come off of anything i've worked on unless it was beat to hell and back w a bat of met another cars bumper...my opinion is new strait is best but for us in the working world is bondo is the best thing since sliced bread...its come a long way since the fiftys..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Lets not forget that "Bondo" is a brand name for a filler that yes, was popular decades ago. The modern fillers are a whole different animal. Companies like 3M refined fillers (aerodynamic smoothers) decades ago, for the aerospace industry. That when applied on properly preped surface (rough and clean) would fill a dent 1/4 inch deep by 2 inches wide. And when bent at the repair area, in excess of 90 degrees, would not pop off or even crack! These types of fillers are on the shelf today. The real "old school" Bondo can't hold up to that kind of aplication for one thing. And secondly, Bondo's reputation was also slughtered by it's missuse. The unknowing, or the lazy, would slap it on thick and even use it to cover large holes! Chicken wire, screws, and a gallon of Bondo.....hole be gone!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFurious Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Filler should only be applied over a catalyzed primer or bare metal. Applying it over any spray-bomb product is a no-no no matter how long you let the base coat cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 I`ve been using Z-grip filler, and have been more than satisfied with how well it performs. It is made by Evercoat, they also have an excellent glazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.