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What is the redline of your L6?


blue_leaf

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Thought it might be usefull if we create a database for people to see who is running what and not search through a million pages to find individual threads dedicated to everyones' setup. My L6 setup doesnt deserve its own thread anyway (yet), and I thought I will use it to start off this database. Lets keep it nice and simple and follow this template... also please no discussion here - just specs, again for the ease of use.

 

#1 Engine:

Block: L28 - F54 out of 280ZX

Head: E30 (off Australia delievered R30 skyline I am guessing);

Camshaft: stock??? (no idea really)

Redline: stock

Compression: 10.21:1 (according to lengine software)

Fuel System: stock 280ZX EFI

Power: yet to be dynoed @ XXXXRPM

Torque: as above @ XXXXRPM

Link: to the individual thread about the engine if you have one

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Engine 1

 

Block: L28 - N42

Head: N42

Camshaft: Sunbelt 310 duration, 564/534 lift

Redline: 7,900

Compression: 13.6 to 1

Fuel System: Motec M48

Power: 320 @ 6,800 rpm

Torque: 275 @ 5,600 rpm

 

Engine 2

 

Block: L28 - F54

Head: P79

Camshaft: stock

Redline: 6,500

Compression: 9.0 to 1

Fuel System: SUs

Power: a little

Torque: some

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Block: L28 - N42

Head: N42

Camshaft: WEB .488 Lift 280 duration on 114* lobe centers

Redline: 7,200

Compression: 8.5 to 1

Fuel System: AEM EMS

Power: ??

Torque: ??

Power Adder: T67 turbo charger,50-75 whp shot of N20.

 

The motor has not been finally tuned and dynoed yet.

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The information I’m about to give was given to me by a reputable and valued member of this forum and hopefully he’ll chime in, (please Cary McC?), as there is a good chance that my memory of this conversation back in the early ‘90’s has become distorted…

 

Cary and his father did rev the bejeezers out of the L-series, no matter if it was a mild street Z or a full blown Race Z, That is how they drove, that I do remember as accurate. Cary still revs the snot of whatever he runs on course, LOL. Any how, I remember him mentioning that they did break more than a couple L-series cranks. If my memory serves, he said that the OE Datsun L-28 crank is good for 8500-8700 RPM MAX! At that point the crank will break right at the rear main. As I remember this conversation, he said running as light a flywheel as possible and a quality heavy a damper on the front allowed for the most RPM before failure occurred, such as a FluiDamper modified to fit the L-crank. The crank would break right at the rear main separating the flywheel from the engine. That is all I recall from that conversation at one of the local events back in the early ‘90’s. Hopefully he’ll see this thread and chime in…

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Someone (not Tony D) has always said that the L engine crank has some terrible harmonics at around 8.5k rpm.

 

There is something that can be done about it though, considering the LSR car runs 9k rpm.

 

If you're wondering how to make your engine rev higher, a good balance job, forged pistons, better valve springs, and you're pretty much set (what I've been told). What is highly recommended is an aftermarket damper, with an upgraded bolt and washer.

 

Mario

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Engine 1

 

Block: L28 - N42

Head: N42

Camshaft: Sunbelt 310 duration' date=' 564/534 lift

Redline: 7,900

Compression: 13.6 to 1

Fuel System: Motec M48

Power: 320 @ 6,800 rpml

Torque: 275 @ 5,600 rpm[/quote']

 

John C, Was this the engine from the Rusty Old Datsun? Your numbers are truly amazing. I'm humbled as my engine might make 200HP without the turbo. I can't say I've personally ever seen an L28 make peak power at such a high RPM. The best I've seen from a big dollar turbo L28 on this forum is 6300. You must have a cam and cylinder head that work well together. With lower compression, a turbocharger and a split pattern cam you'd have a 600HP engine I bet. :mrgreen: Enough bench racing. Thanks for sharing.

 

 

Here's my spec's.

Block: L28 3.0L - F54

Head: P90

Camshaft: Isky 290/280 Dur 490/480 Lift

Redline: 7,000

Compression: 7.6 to 1

Fuel System: Electromotive Tec3

Power: 371 @ 5,500 rpm (rear wheel)

Torque: 427 @ 4,300 rpm (rear wheel)

Power Adder: T3/4 turbo

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stock 183k junkyard motor with megasquirt I have the rev limiter set at 6800 and I use it, with my old stock 2.4 on carbs with MSD and an electronic distributor I frequently ran to 8k while autocrossing, no power up there but beats upshifting just to downshift

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Cary and his father did rev the bejeezers out of the L-series, no matter if it was a mild street Z or a full blown Race Z, That is how they drove, that I do remember as accurate. Cary still revs the snot of whatever he runs on course, LOL. Any how, I remember him mentioning that they did break more than a couple L-series cranks. If my memory serves, he said that the OE Datsun L-28 crank is good for 8500-8700 RPM MAX!

 

That's pretty close. The 8500 limit was for an L24. And as Paul mentioned it wouldn't hack much beyond that wihtout becoming two pieces. We even tried the nissan comp forged crank and had similar results. The ultimate solution we went with was to drop the rev limit to 8250 and call it good. When we switched to an L28 we called nissan comp and they indicated 8K would be about the max. So we went to 7800.

 

The generall warning sign of a broken crank was a clutch pedal that jumped when you pushed it in and the flywheel would fall off when you took the motor out :-) In almost all cases the front pulley bolt could be removed by hand after this happenned. If you lose something on one end the other takes a serious beating.

 

Cary

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Ultimately there's an upper limit to anything. For the Nissan L6, its around 8.5K rpm. On the ROD the crank was a diesel crank lightened by 17 lbs, knife edged, nitirded, and striaghtened to within .0001". It had Carillo rods, JE forged pistons, an ATI Super Damper, and a QM 5.5" dual disk clutch. That bottom end is now in a vintage racing 240Z that runs with VARA and HSR West.

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Tony D has always said that the L engine crank has some terrible harmonics at around 8.5k rpm.

 

Never ever have said any such things!

 

People should be wary about attributing quotes to me that have not passed from my lips!

 

I have ONLY stated that we ran our .040" L28 to 8500, and that was a function of the gearspacing in the transmission, and our power curve. Shifting at 8500 was possible, but in actual testing, and after almost four seasons of shifting at 8500 through all the gears, our fastest times and best speeds were had starting the vehicle in third gear with a push start, and shifting at 8500. Basically first and second were a waste of time.

 

So from that, I can see nearly sometime in the future someone will say "Tony D has said spending time in first and second on a road racing course is wasted time."

 

Please DON'T put words in my mouth, and RETRACT that comment! I never said it, and it is at a point where I will INSIST that you show me the place where YOU sourced that information saying I did!

 

As for the current LSR car, with the L20A crank, and 1998cc displacment, yes we are shifting at 9000+rpm (9300 initially) simply beause this engine is making peak power in the 8750rpm range. To hear an L-Engine revving for 30+ seconds above 9000rpm changes what you think about what an L-Engine sounds like!

 

Mind you, these are not "Redlines" they are "Shiftpoint" numbers. Currently the limiter on the 2.8 program was around 8700, and the 2.0 program is 9500.

 

Redline is more a function of valvetrain componentry than crankshaft harmonics, and first and second critical speeds.

 

But I digress, I chimed in here to say I NEVER said the quote above, in no place, at any time, and that the poster is inaccurately attributing statements to me that are false.

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But I digress, I chimed in here to say I NEVER said the quote above, in no place, at any time, and that the poster is inaccurately attributing statements to me that are false.

 

I did not inhale!

 

I did not have sex with that woman!

 

:mrgreen:

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But

 

How fast you can rev will have a lot to do with the amount of torque the individual engine transfers to each connecting rod. That is IF you look to the bottom end for your limitations. The top end as Tony pointed out is the starting point though.

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I have ONLY stated that we ran our .040" L28 to 8500' date=' and that was a function of the gearspacing in the transmission, and our power curve. Shifting at 8500 was possible, but in actual testing, and after almost four seasons of shifting at 8500 through all the gears, our fastest times and best speeds were had starting the vehicle in third gear with a push start, and shifting at 8500. Basically first and second were a waste of time.

 

So from that, I can see nearly sometime in the future someone will say "Tony D has said spending time in first and second on a road racing course is wasted time."

 

[/quote']

 

Ok, I'm going to bite. What kind of racing were you doing where the mechanical advantage of first and second gears were slower than pushing a car? Was another car pushing it (i know you do land speed record racing)

 

what rear end ratio was used?

 

clearly, you have caught my interest :)

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