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Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount


JMortensen

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Hey guys, i have a major problem. I bought a nismo 1.5 way lsd off ebay they stated that it came out of an r200 diff. I'm trying to install it but i can't find the right input shafts for the diff. I've tried s14 open and vlsd shafts, skyline vlsd shafts and also a 300zx shaft. The skyline shafts are slightly to small. I counted 29 splines in the diff any ideas what shafts could possible work with this ? l0m59 is stamped on the lsd.

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Is it possible to fit this diff to an s14? It should be noted that i measured the depth of the bore where the input shafts go... and they are roughly the same on either side. From the pics i've seen the z33 lsd's shafts vary greatly in length from side to side

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  • 5 weeks later...
yeah ijust screwed myself and bought the 5 bolt r200 vlsd shortnose diff without reading up on it. dumb move on my end, however it was really cheap. Is there no mounting kit/cv kit available at all to mount these in my 280z????
There might well be - I have posted a few time about using the Pathfinder V6 axles and then some other parts to make a hybrid axles that will have the 5 bolt on diff end like you require. There are a few posts/threads for you to check out

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143201

and

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132252&highlight=cv+shaft+length&page=4

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok fellas this differential is out of a late model 85 300zx turbo, with manual trans.

 

Ive looked around and cant seem to find the gear ratio.

 

any info if this will fit into a sieries 1 (s30) datsun z chassis?

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x480 and weights 153KB.013.jpg

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x480 and weights 148KB.014-2.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hi guys, I'm looking for information on the Borg Warner manufactured diff that were fitted to the Pintaras and skylines, are they any of the diffs your referring to here ..as in R180's etc or are they a compleatly different breed?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I currently have a stock LS1 ~300 ftlbs in my 75' 280Z with a longnose R200 dif. If I do increase the power it won't be above 400 ftlbs. Is it safe to use the NISMO CLSD or is there a compelling reason to go with a Quaife? $1000 vs $1500.

 

From reading through everything it feels like it is a crap shoot if I get the good CLSD w/o the spacers or not. Someone that has experience with the CLSD help me please!

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  • 4 months later...

OK, so I have a 1972 240Z with the 240SX 5 speed and a 3.54 R180 out of an automatic car. It’s ok, but with an almost stock engine (Fully rebuilt .020 over, mild performance cam, headers with 2-1/4†exhaust), I want a lower rear gear to improve acceleration. So I get an open 3.90 R200, the R200 mustache bar, and a set of rebuilt 300ZXT CV half-shafts. I’ve read about the potential for the shafts being too long and binding so I decide to design my own stub axle conversion flanges to minimize the length. I end up with a design that is about 1/8"-1/4" shorter per side (a guess looking at the pictures) than the ones from Modern Motorsports (and cost me less than $100/pair to have made at the local machine shop). Now with all the old parts out, I put in the mustache bar, assemble the stub axles with their new adapter flanges and go to put in the R200 with the front mount reversed like I’ve read in the forums and tech pages; but the front mount doesn’t line up. OK, let’s try it with the mount in the stock direction… perfect fit! The CV axles snap into the differential and fit my adapter flanges with no interference. I didn’t have to disassemble my rear suspension or even compress the CV cage springs. Now I know from my reading that the old limiter strap will not work with the R200…but wait a minute; it looks like everything lines up pretty close. Sure enough, it bolts back in the stock position and fits perfectly over the smooth part of the differential between the front differential mounting bolt bosses. With gear lube back in the transmission after changing to the white speedometer pinion for the 3.90 gears, it’s time for a test drive. Everything works great. I like the new gearing and take it up to over 100 mph with no noises or vibration. A few hours later, I finally get home; the sweet smell of success! I know this swap has been performed by 100’s of people before but I was surprised by the way the front mount went in and the fact that I was able to use the stock limiter strap with no modifications so I wanted to share this experience.

My adapter flanges: I started with an oversize circular 3/8†thick mild steel plate and milled a rectangle out of the center to be a precise interference fit with the outside of the original flange and to a depth of the original flange (about .230†deep). Next, the plate was heated so the old flange could be inserted. After the plate cooled, shrink fitting tight onto the old flange, they were welded on the back side. Next the assembly was chucked up in a lathe and turned down to the diameter of the CV flange ears and a thickness of about .330â€. Finally, the center was machined out to accept the raised alignment ring on the CV housing to a depth of about .100†and the matching bolt holes were drilled. This puts the alignment ring and CV end cap almost in contact with the mating surface of the original flange. I’m not an engineer, but I figured the .330†thickness of the mild steel would be close in strength to the .230†thickness original forging. Also, I shrunk fit the new flange so the weld would not be stressed by the driving torque and only have to hold the two pieces together.

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Adaptrs.jpg

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Assy.jpg

 

After tightening the stub axle nuts, I cut/ground down the ends of the stub axles so they only protruded about 1/16†through the nuts. This was necessary to keep the CV end plate from hitting the ends of the stub axles when installed.

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/GrndStub.jpg

 

The R200 and 300ZXT half-shafts:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/R200.jpg

 

The R180 with the front mount still on it in the stock orientation:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/180MNT.jpg

 

The R200 installed with the front mount in the stock orientation:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Mount.jpg

 

The installed CV half-shafts:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/StubRT.jpg

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/StubLFT.jpg

 

The stock R180 limiter strap installed in the stock position over the R200:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Strap.jpg

 

My 1972 240Z restoration picture page:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~heimsothtn/240Z.htm

 

This was an easy swap! Do it!

 

Steve.

Edited by 007240z
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  • 5 months later...

Since this is a sticky, I think it is important to correct the first post that the REAR Armada differential is to be used. I did not see that correction throughout the post and if it was overlooked I apologize.

 

Tyson

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  • 9 months later...

ok so i just started to drive my 73 240 with a 350 chevy and a t5 conversion ... it all works super but i think the r200 out of an 82 280z with a 3.90 gear is to tight. i go through the gears to fast, i dont want to do 200 mph but i do want a little punch.. if i leave a stop light in second gear it pulls super hard but if i go first second third i loose half the rpm cause i have to shift so fast any thoughs?????

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