gretchen/jason Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 Well i did think of that but its been overheating like this for 9 months and i just installed these filters 2 weeks ago . Ive been running without a hood for at least 7 months then it started to snow so i slaped the hood back on it and wham back to the same ole problem . The total exposed aera of the rad to get cool air is 22 wide and 19 high the air filters barley interfere at all . Just wondering which pulls more air at idle a clutch fan or a non clutch fan . If i can beat overheating at idle ill be set . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Your problem with the electric fans causing overheating at speed doesn't sound right. The forced air coming through the grill at highway speeds should cool the car even without any fan at all. It sounds to me like there's an underlying issue that's intermittent. I think Mike KZ and Sumo are right... it sounds more like an intermittent water flow problem. If air flow is unobstructed the electric fans should cool just as well as any mechanical fan at speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 Ive thought the same thing i have 3 different pumps ive bought brand new and tried a Milodon high flow pump then a edelbrock high flow anticavitaition pump then a stock pump seems to be the stock pump keeps the temp lower then the rest how well do those restrictor plate discs work in place of the t stat ? And someone mentioned to cut off some fins on the impeller anynoe done that before . It may be worth a try if it helps my situaition Thanks for the advice everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 This is not a 'typical' application. ...i stuffed a Blown SBC in my z So all comparision to typical zcar behavior is moot. It is assumed that all the common stuff has been checked. Apparently the blown motor produces a lot of extra heat. Although the SBC fits neatly in the engine compartment, it's still a lot of motor in a little car. The 1st gen Zcar had cooling issues, hence the addition of vents in the later years. This application may require extra measures to keep it cool running. Yet the electric fan not cooling at highway speed seems counterintuitive. The restrictor plates... never used em... never owned a chevy. Same thing with the water pump impeller. But I know the restrictor is fairly common practice. I think the restrictor plate kind of makes the impeller mod unnessasary. I know they make several different sizes of hole to adjust the water flow. The chin pan is another good idea. I have one but not on the car right now. I think you can still get them. I tried to find a picture. ...how far back from the lower radiator support does it go like to the steering rack ? And is it completly flat ? Does it attach to the lower rad support also ? Jason It attaches (bolts) to the frame rails and (I think) across the rad support. It's aluminum. It runs back to the front of the stock L-6 oil pan. It's roughly flat but bends up 90 degrees on either side to come up to the bottom of the frame rails. (hangs down from the frame rails. I'll try to find a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 What's your antifreeze:water ratio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Make sure air is going through your radiator... baffles for the airdam and/or the original underpan are important even at slow speeds... I cut a few extra hole into the inner fender area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Is your timing retarded? Retarded timing will cause heating! What is total advance? Are you running Vacuum advance unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Four years driving a Z with a 355/144 blower has taught me this about temps. You can't compare any non-blown car's temp readings with yours, period. In around town driving 190* to 200* at a stoplight is normal. Highway drivng doesn't bring the temp down they go up. At 70-75 mph 210* is normal and may even creep a bit up depending on outside temps. This is not a concern. I have a 2-speed Ford Taurus set-up with the low speed coming on at 180* and the high speed at 210*. I have the alum. rad. and Edelbrock Victor hp water pump and it makes no diff. My fan is always runnig at low speed in town and will at some point switch to high on the freeway and runs at high till you get off the freeway. It's the nature off the beast of a blower motor. A lot of heat is always being generated. Get use to it or take the blower off. When you say you are overheating do you mean your temp goes to 210*??? That's not overheating with a blower motor, that's normal. If your boiling in the rad. or puking water than you have another problem that you better find. LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted October 10, 2006 Author Share Posted October 10, 2006 Well i took into thought a few things and i do have a weiand 144 blower the timing is all mechanical with a base line of 20 degrees advanced at 6 thou ft above sea level 38 full on advance . I took my usual highway route this morning and it was 33 degrees and raining well at 60 mph and 3,300 rpms i hit 200 degrees so on the way home i went another route 40 mph never got over 185 !!! . So im guessing that the watter flowing past my t stat "4th time ive sealed it this year " Is making the watter travel to fast to cool off at high speeds so when i get off the highway and stop at a light im guessing there isnt much time to cool down . I like the pics of the small holes in the fender wells ill try that also as in the summer the aera around the inspection lids got hot enough to where i didnt want to touch the fender .Thanks bjhines And to Moms z thanks for trying to get a pic to me ill keep looking to see if ya got it . And cozyzcole My z does exactly what youres does i tried the ford taurus fan it was ok but the clutch fan does better for me so far any way . But it was cheap only 15$ for that fan . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 went out and snapped a pic, here ya go album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=11107&size=big&cat=712 well it's to d@mn big to post so clicky the link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Test you thermostat in a pot of water with a thermometer just to be sure it's working correctly. Pressure bleed you cooling system. Also, are you sure your're not running lean?? Doyou have a wideband O2 or EGT?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Cozy Cole and G/J, Are your superchargers boosting when the temps go up? Several weeks ago it was a 104* day when I got on the freeway. Temps stayed at 180* at 65 mph. However, when I returned to surface streets and idled at stop signs it shot up to 190*. I use an electric pump and no thermostat with "purple ice" and water for coolant. On hot days I only use the high speed setting on my Taurus fan. Maybe the difference is that I'm never "in boost" unless I want to be and then it's too much power to stay in it on the street. If you have no mechanical problems some type of hood venting should help your situation. Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 I had a similar problem with my car about 17 years ago. I was going out of town and didn`t have time to work on it so I took it to local shop. They had the car for 6 weeks. In that time they changed the radiator hoses and recored the radiator. When I picked the car up, it overheated in less than 10 miles. I then went to the parts store and bought new belts. The car never overheated after that. I turns out that I had the wrong pitch of belt on the water pump, and it would slip at speed. I believe it was a 17 series belt in place of a 15 series. Denny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 Well lately i havent been on the highway so i havent had the watter flowing as fast and it was 48 degrees today at the drive through i hit 190 and nothing more . Will a electric watter pump flow a bit slower then a stock pump at say 3,500 rpms ? Im begining to think the watter isnt in the rad long enough to cool off and i still have my Black magic extreeme electric fan that pulls i think it was 3,300 cfm and covers the entire rad surface aera . Oh Turbo Meister what elec watter pump do ya use ? Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Oh Turbo Meister what elec watter pump do ya use ? The pump is CSI. I got rid of my Black Magic Fan and replaced it with the Taurus. End of high temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 210* isn't hot, if the water is staying in the rad, your fine, even though you might want it cooler. Buy a higher pressure cap, 24lb, 27lb, whatever, it'll keep the water in till 240 or 250. In circle track racing we used to see 230 to 235 all the time! Basics to cooling; 1. adequate air flow, low speeds <35 fan predominates, >35 outside air flow through rad predominates. 2. Good rad, preferrably aluminum aftermarket IMO. 3. proper water flow, you can have too much or too little, both of which cause overheating. Water actually transfers heat better than antifreeze. If you in hot climate decrease antifreeze mix to protect for your lowest temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Block off the area between the airdam and the radiator support as bjhines suggested. As it is a lot of the air that could be going through the radiator is probably going through the gaping hole between the airdam and the core support. You can tape a piece of cardboard in there to test and see how it helps. Getting all the air that goes through the air dam to also go through the radiator will help a lot. This thread shows some pictures of people using aluminum to block off the huge hole: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110222 The other thing I'm thinking is that Scottie cooled his engine off by closing off the cowl and venting the hood. I think that cowl is forcing air into the engine bay and that's reducing the airflow through the radiator, and this is at least part of the problem. Here's Scottie's thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113540 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 Ok one more question i just got me a electronis thermometer if i spelled it corectly but the laser type so i took a temp reading on my water outlet neck it read 175 then the hose 180 then where the watter enters the rad 180 again the outlet hos whicj is stainless steel 140 then the water pump 175-185 etc etc . All the while my temp gauge reads 210 !!!! i even took a temp reading of the electric sending unit itself 175 and the gauge well 210 . all this stuff is 3 months old is this a normal reading or maybe a bad sending unit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 That's a good idea using the IR thermometer. Although the temp inside the head may be a few degrees higher than the external area immediately around the temp sending unit, it seems wrong for it to be THAT different. Maybe you have the wrong sending unit? Did you change gauges recently? Or maybe you did some rewiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 Nope no changes or rewiring i redid the entire harnes and new gauges all at once . Just basic wiring painless wiring fuse block and i hand laid all the wiring my self using nothing less then 10 gauge wire unless supplied with the gauge itself . I used to have the sending unit above the #1 spark plug till i got crazy readings then moved it to the intake maniold it got somewhat better but ya never know . Ill order a new one 12$ and let everyone know what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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