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used my Z as a pilot bearing puller


olie05

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I was changing the clutch on a buddy's ford ranger today...

 

we got the tranny off and we are all the way down to the crankshaft's butt trying to get the pilot bearing out.

 

we tried very hard with a tire Iron, and then several different size flathead screwdrivers before we realized that we needed this special tool called a "pilot bearing puller"

 

well it turns out that the pilot bearing puller isn't actually a puller, just an attachment for a puller. We set it up and try pulling by hand, then by plier and then strategically with a hammer... no luck.

 

Finaly we try my car. I still have the right bumper shock on my car so that seemed like a good place...

 

trial one:

push the car by hand and use the momentum to pull the bearing out.

results:

Puller comes out with no bearing

 

trial two:

push the car by hand and use the momentum, but this time putting more torque on the puller to get it to grab on the bearing harder...

results:

same as above

 

trial three:

launch car at 3500rpm with a little slack in the cable, and with the puller as tight as it will go on the bearing. All while leaving 2 nice thick rubber tracks in the pavement.

results:

SUCCESS!!!!

 

i <3 my car :)

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I've had a lot of problems with pilot bearing removal as well. On thing I found worked extremely well was a tap. I used the tap (not sure of the size but I think it was a 9/16") to cut threads into the pilot bearing hole. Once the tap bottomed out on the end of the crank, I simply kept turning it, which then pulled the pilot bearing out as I turned the tap into the end of the crank.

 

Who would have thought?

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I use a grease gun to inject grease into and behind the pilot bearing/bushing.

Once you have the cavity completely filled,put the tip of your clutch alignment tool into the bearing and tap it with a hammer.

The hydraulic pressure will force the bearing/bushing out. you may have to refill the cavity several times depending on the size of the bearing.

 

I`ve been doing it this way for well over 20 years and it has NEVER failed.

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Tried the grease method on my Explorer last year, the pilot bearing is a caged roller bearing, guess what? greased squirted back out through about 20 little tubular openings. I ended up buying this a HF:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876

 

but I had to turn it down on the lathe to fit inside the center bore ( I think it was about 5/8") of the bearing - And it will not reach deep enough without removing the flywheel.

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Another method for pilot bushings is to use a dremel with a little burr on it and cut a groove on the inside of the bushing. You cut front to back, and when you cut all the way through then the bushing has no spring tension on the hole anymore, and it comes right out.

 

I have also used the hydraulic method and found it to be a PITA, especially when you're on your back under the car trying to hit the alignment tool with a hammer.

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I use a grease gun to inject grease into and behind the pilot bearing/bushing.

Once you have the cavity completely filled,put the tip of your clutch alignment tool into the bearing and tap it with a hammer.

The hydraulic pressure will force the bearing/bushing out. you may have to refill the cavity several times depending on the size of the bearing.

 

I`ve been doing it this way for well over 20 years and it has NEVER failed.

 

This was the first method that was attempted. It was suggested by the Haynes manual, and it did not work. It did not help that the pilot bearing was trash when we got to it though.

 

BTW white lithium grease makes people wonder what exactly you were doing under the car...

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I have also used the hydraulic method and found it to be a PITA, especially when you're on your back under the car trying to hit the alignment tool with a hammer.

 

That`s why I have a LIFT in my garage.

 

I have encountered pilot bearings that were too far gone, in that situation I use slide hamer with a hook on it.

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I use a grease gun to inject grease into and behind the pilot bearing/bushing.

Once you have the cavity completely filled,put the tip of your clutch alignment tool into the bearing and tap it with a hammer.

The hydraulic pressure will force the bearing/bushing out. you may have to refill the cavity several times depending on the size of the bearing.

 

I`ve been doing it this way for well over 20 years and it has NEVER failed.

 

That's the way I've always done it. Think it's worked every time for me too.

Of course my pilot bearings haven't been that munched when i've tried to take 'em out. If they're really thin I would assume that it wouldn't work. I'd use the dremel trick, or the tap, that's a damned good idea!!! :icon14:

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I use slide hamer with a hook on it.

 

That's the way I always do it.

 

I 'm surprised no one has mentioned the wet toilet paper method. Stuff the bearing with wet TP and insert a tight - fitting deep socket, then tap with a hammer. Hydraulic pressure will extract the bushing. It works, no sh!t.:D

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  • 2 years later...
Another method for pilot bushings is to use a dremel with a little burr on it and cut a groove on the inside of the bushing. You cut front to back, and when you cut all the way through then the bushing has no spring tension on the hole anymore, and it comes right out.

 

I have also used the hydraulic method and found it to be a PITA, especially when you're on your back under the car trying to hit the alignment tool with a hammer.

 

In this case, a really good jigsaw with no blade-slop and a metal short-tooth blade would work good but you'd hvae to be extra careful in the last couple of millimeters.

 

also, you could buy a small saw from Lowes or Home Depot that is almost as thin as a jigsaw blade and could fit in there no problem

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