markrolston@mac.com Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 yes that was a miata- a fast one. turbocharged and a better driver. I just couldn't catch him. I'm still learning how to drive this new setup with the new overpowered motor. My first day out I was slower around the track than with my 200HP L28 BTW- I modded my oil pan to address the right-hand turn issues that folks identified. I have before and after pics of the oil pan coming soon. give me a day or 2. The car's at the paint shop getting a new carbon fiber hood with custom vents. The existing hood had rough jigsaw cut vents- not so nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrolston@mac.com Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 For everyone interested in a oil pan baffle setup- here are some pics of how I addressed the issue with the right hand turn starvation. I can't say yet it fixes the problem.. Pics are here: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/iWeb/Site/Z-Blog/11E9DA33-B5D5-4ED7-882D-01E3BFCB3247.html There are also many other pics of the motor being put back together. Enjoy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 yes that was a miata- a fast one. turbocharged and a better driver. I just couldn't catch him. I'm still learning how to drive this new setup with the new overpowered motor. My first day out I was slower around the track than with my 200HP L28 BTW- I modded my oil pan to address the right-hand turn issues that folks identified. I have before and after pics of the oil pan coming soon. give me a day or 2. The car's at the paint shop getting a new carbon fiber hood with custom vents. The existing hood had rough jigsaw cut vents- not so nice. I guessed it must of been played with, as you wernt really gaining on it Cheers for the pics of the pan, i hope it fix's the issue for you. Clint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 Mark, I cant wait to see more video footage once you get used to the new engine! So much potential. Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 Do you have a picture of the pickup tube? And I'll start by saying I'm no expert - but here is some thought as I look to modify my pan. Most "racing" type wet sump pans have "wings" on either side to keep oil available and from sloshing out of the sump area under extreme cornering. I see they added the "dams" to keep the valley's closed in yours. Was the pan already kicked out to the left side? With something like the Nissan Motorsports L6 competition pan, it has clear "wings" on both sides of the pan - maybe oil is pooling on that side, (the wing side), and is not able to get back to the pickup? ...Edit - I now see the orientation of the pan - I was looking at it backwards. Comments don't apply. Now of course, I could be looking at the pan backwards and the wing is actually on the right side,(pass side of the car), which is pooling oil to dump into the diamond under right turns. (As above, this is correct, you have the wing on the pass side). Interesting that you all chose to put the sump in the middle - vice there rear like mine and others. Just thinking out loud. If you take a look at the Arizona Z car pan, its design is very similar to yours,(link below). The Nissan Competition pan has the center section almost the same as well. Biggest difference is the diamond portion is physically smaller. Again, just thinking out loud while I go through what to do to my motor... Of course you still have the issue of uncovering the pickup under braking. I think that is mainly because of the ramp down into the sump area - which allows the oil a 45 degree path up towards the front of the car. I don't think that will be much of an issue with a pan like mine since the front wall is flat,(as is the Arizona Z pan and the Nissan Comp pan). Or you could just go easy on braking.... I don't think so! Also, with the aluminum plate screwed to the top - does it have a sufficient gap for oil to drain back down the sump? I can't tell from the pictures. Or maybe that is the intent, to keep the oil in the sump? I assume holes will be cut to allow the oil to drain down into the sump? See this for a cover plate with drain holes: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=394116&postcount=10 Just trying to think and help. Not trying to dissect your design work. I would not have thought of most of these things had you not had your problems. I guess if we can learn from your mistake - we all benefit. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kabestuble Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 I am in the planning stage for putting a drysump in Mark Rolston's 240. The biggest obsticle I see will be the belt drive at the crank. Note, Mark is only running an alt. but the intercooler is where the radiator used to be and the rad is already close to the dampner. There is room for the pump, and with the removal of the HKS unit, would have a place for the crank pulley. Fab a plate for the crank seal, trim a little off the lower timming cover, and plumb into the existing oil galley. The tank could go in the back of either wheel well, with a little convincing, but no more than 3 gal. The pan itself would have to be fabed, but with the crank so high in the block, it could be almost flat with a small rectangular sump along the right side length of the pan for the pickups. Right side because of crank rotation and to ease plumbing to the pump, as the suction lines could run under the pan. So, I simply need to decide wether to cut down the crank snout, makes it weaker, or just cut a key way and have a pulley made, probably by CV Products. Also need to touch base with some pump manufacturers for proper sized sections. Wil let ya know.l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Please switch out those 90 degree silicon connectors. They dont flow all that well. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Why not remove the internals,(gears), from the oil pump and utilize the crank pulley? My personal thought is you take the chance of weakening items with what you are discussing. It would be fairly simple to get a longer belt, or bolt a cogged pulley on the front of his existing damper. I'd personally be interested in your solution, esp. since I'm down in Corpus Christi and facing the same issues,(either modify my existing pan, or go dry sump). If you could send me a PM with your expected cost to duplicate I'd appreciate it. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun dave Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Its the Autosport show this weekend in the UK will see if i can get some feedback from some of the chaps at the show about dry sumping the RB engine as i feel its the way to go, i wanted to build a Drag and Track car but dont want to waste my engine at the first hard corner any helpfull ideas/coments will be posted up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 I saw these pics on the Ausie boards.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kabestuble Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Why not remove the internals,(gears), from the oil pump and utilize the crank pulley? My personal thought is you take the chance of weakening items with what you are discussing. It would be fairly simple to get a longer belt, or bolt a cogged pulley on the front of his existing damper. I'd personally be interested in your solution, esp. since I'm down in Corpus Christi and facing the same issues,(either modify my existing pan, or go dry sump). If you could send me a PM with your expected cost to duplicate I'd appreciate it. -Bob Actually, after some measuring, placing the pump that far back might interfere with the front turbo downpipe. So, I've decided to use the P/S pump multi ribbed pulley already on the ATI damper and machine the HKS P/S pulley that we didn't use to drive the pump. This would keep it servicable and economical. Would still need the front cover plate for mounting and plumbing the pump. The next decision is to use the RB25 or RB26 pan bolt pattern. Like I mentioned earlier, it's in the planning stage, prototypes to follow. Will let ya know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 where is the video?!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrolston@mac.com Posted January 18, 2007 Author Share Posted January 18, 2007 Video? not clear but there's some video on my site: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/iWeb/Site/Z-car.html and in a couple of days (after this wierd Austin freeze) I'll post new pics and vid of the custom carbon fibre hood and new boze wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 For those who worry oil starvation problem of RB engines, here is PATENTED oil strainer for racing RB26 which shall use stock oil pan casting by ragulation. One or a couple of bearings and oil seal enable the cup swinging by gravity. http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~krg/p3/gst.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Thats the big secret Sean Morris has been keeping from everyone over on Freshalloy.... hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 For those who worry oil starvation problem of RB engines, here is PATENTED oil strainer for racing RB26 which shall use stock oil pan casting by ragulation. One or a couple of bearings and oil seal enable the cup swinging by gravity.http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~krg/p3/gst.html Of course, that works in the front sump pan....I'd be interested in a close up picture of the pickup, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Of course, that works in the front sump pan....I'd be interested in a close up picture of the pickup, etc... I've heard that the design taken from fuel (or oil) pickup in helicopter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 So needless to say, I've been doing a lot of oil control research. Mark, here are some links that should interest you. You have the high output oil pump as do I,(I have the HKS), so as I understand some of the issues, here is what is compounded by the bigger pump. RB's have a tendency to pool oil up in the head, esp. in the rear where there is insufficient drainage to get the oil back to the pan. Now you take a smaller than stock capacity oil pan,(such as what you had originally), and you are pumping oil out of the pan, w/o replacing it... I'd bet your baffling was good, maybe even sufficient, but the level was low as lots of oil was pooling up in the head. Here is a link discussing oiling issues in detail. Very good discussion. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110680 Post 55 on page 3 talks about having wings on your sump - i.e. if you don't have some form of wings, then you should be very wary of track/road course stuff. I.E. the capacity to deal with cornering in the sump. The restrictors are in the block to the head. Post 63 shows where the restrictors go and post 72 has a pictoral of someone doing it,(poor quality pictures). #76 has the cyl head oil return pictured - and the later pages show some other solutions to the rear cyl head return to the sump. All in all a good discussion.... -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I've browsed this forum for years. It was pictures of Stony's RB build up that made the idea so compelling. Last year, on Oct 23, 2005, I broke my race-prepped L28. I had been kicking around the idea of building an RB26 "some day" but this provided the needed excuse. I'm finished now and happy to show the car to everyone. A project like this isn't for the faint of heart (or wallet). Read the story on my site: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/iWeb/Site/Z-Blog/Z-Blog.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/iWeb/Site/Z-car.html Dude, Your car is kickfckinass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zedzilla Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 Mark, a fine example of how a z should be! Amazing. One question for you though, is that a r33 skyline brake booster and reservoir you have? If so how does it work becasue im looking into doing this swap also along with the clutch cylinder. How does your stock cluch cylinder feel, is it worth upgrading for the rb25 box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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