240zV8 Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 I've been searching around at home depot, lowes and the local classifieds and finally found somthing good for me. I picked this up for $100 tonight. The guy i got it from bought it brand new last year from home depot.. The model sells for $379+tax. Husky VT6315, same as the campel hausfeld one. Should be just right for painting and running the tools i need. I won't be using it enough to justify spending alot on a huge compressor, plus this is pretty big and it's just a 26 gal. Now it's time to hit up harbor freights to test there air tool quality...here's some pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Sweet Edelbrock powered too! Nice score. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted November 11, 2006 Author Share Posted November 11, 2006 yea, i think that sticker came with the performance upgrade it has... ;-D i have a question though, the air filter has blueish dust around it and on the pump (from the air filter). Is that just the cleaning agent in the filter, probably time to change it right? And i can hear alittle water in the tank, do i just let all the air out, then open the valve at the bottom and let it drain? (i'll try to get a manual from homedepot eventually for this model so i don't have to ask all these questions). Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 To get the water out you should not need to let all the air out. Just open the valve at the bottom to blow the moisture out. (This is what we do at work with high pressure air, and low pressure air) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 To get the water out you should not need to let all the air out. Just open the valve at the bottom to blow the moisture out. (This is what we do at work with high pressure air, and low pressure air) I drained the liquid out today like you siad. It was a dark red color, is that just from the compressor not being used for a year? Should i buy one of those inline air filters between the gauge's and the tool to get rid of the moisture in the line? Home depot didn't have a manual on hand for my compressor, so i'll have to order one from the company so i can figure out how to regulate the air in the line, because i can't figure out how to hold it at 60psi max in the line for some tools... I used part of my gift card from homedepot and got a air tool kit with Impact wrech, die grinder, sander, paint gun, and hammer for $60 and they work great. I gotta go back and get a nice 4-1/2" grinder and get some cut-off wheels for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Dark red liquid is rusty water. You need to open the drain valve pretty much every time you pressurize the system. I took off the drain petcock and hooked a section of hose with a blowgun end in place of the drain valve. Makes it simple to blow the water out of the tank on a regular basis. I hooked up a water separator and adjustable regulator and mounted that on my garage wall. I then ran copper pipe all through the garage so I have air hook ups at all the major work areas. The mechanical water separator doesn't seem to do the best job. Maybe someone knows a better way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 Dark red liquid is rusty water. You need to open the drain valve pretty much every time you pressurize the system. I took off the drain petcock and hooked a section of hose with a blowgun end in place of the drain valve. Makes it simple to blow the water out of the tank on a regular basis. I hooked up a water separator and adjustable regulator and mounted that on my garage wall. I then ran copper pipe all through the garage so I have air hook ups at all the major work areas. The mechanical water separator doesn't seem to do the best job. Maybe someone knows a better way. yea, it was definently rusty water ^. I took apart every hose fitting, gauges, and regulator and put new teflon tape on all the connections, and there was alittle buildup of crud in there so i cleaned that out, but i'm sure the tank has some goo in it at the bottom. Can i just take off the valve at the bottom and spray a hose up there and wash it out with water, than buildup pressure and let it out the bottom to kinda dry it out? And i figured out how to regulate the pressure in the line. It was pretty simple, I just didn't let the tank buildup enough pressure to do it right the first time. And impact wrench's are nice! lol, i was busting up my knuckles trying to get a bolt loose on my saw and one pull of the trigger on that thing and the bolt came right off..lol... Once i get setup better, i'll look into that copper pipe to route it around the garage. There is one thing i can't figure out yet without the manual. When i click the compressor on with the auto switch it builds up pressure, but how do i set it to where i want the compressor to kick in at? I want it to kick back on when the pressure gets down to about 80psi, can i do that? sorry about the long post...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 The on-off set points on most compressors are not adjustable. Yeah, air tools are nice. Smooth, no vibration and they get cooler as they run, not hotter. An air hammer can be a godsend at times too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Can i just take off the valve at the bottom and spray a hose up there and wash it out with water, than buildup pressure and let it out the bottom to kinda dry it out? There's really no point... whenever you compress air you condense moisture out of it. That settles on the base of the inside of the tank, and over time will rust it. It will never be "dry" -- the only thing you can do is drain it frequently. Once i get setup better, i'll look into that copper pipe to route it around the garage. There are also plastic tubing kits for this that are easier to set up and seal. Not sure if you have a Granberry supply near you, but they sell the tubing and fittings. When i click the compressor on with the auto switch it builds up pressure, but how do i set it to where i want the compressor to kick in at? I want it to kick back on when the pressure gets down to about 80psi You should have two gauges on the compressor. One shows the pressure in the tank, the other shows the set pressure you want to drain off at. The second gauge has the adjustment knob, and can never show more pressure than the first gauge. In "Auto" mode, as you bleed off pressure to power your air tools, the first gauge will drop until the compressor's set point is reached (typically around 100 psi). Then the compressor will fire up and increase the pressure in the tank (first gauge) until the maximum (normally 130-150 psi). Once it reaches its max, it will automatically shut off. In "Off" mode, the pressure will continually bleed off until it reaches the preset pressure on the second gauge, then both gauges will continue dropping until you reach zero. So, if you have your compressor dialed into 90 psi (for impacts, die grinders, etc.) in Auto mode, it will cycle on and off automatically to maintain 90 psi. Your compressor has a certain amount of CFM that it can produce while running. If your air tool draws more CFM than the compressor can produce, the pressure will continue to drop even though the compressor is running. In that situation you will have to stop working while the compressor recharges. I would hope you shouldnt run into that using a quality impact wrench (~5 CFM), but this will probably rear its head if you ever try grinding or sanding (> 10 CFM). - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 In "Auto" mode, as you bleed off pressure to power your air tools, the first gauge will drop until the compressor's set point is reached (typically around 100 psi). Then the compressor will fire up and increase the pressure in the tank (first gauge) until the maximum (normally 130-150 psi). Once it reaches its max, it will automatically shut off. In "Off" mode, the pressure will continually bleed off until it reaches the preset pressure on the second gauge, then both gauges will continue dropping until you reach zero. So, if you have your compressor dialed into 90 psi (for impacts, die grinders, etc.) in Auto mode, it will cycle on and off automatically to maintain 90 psi. Your compressor has a certain amount of CFM that it can produce while running. If your air tool draws more CFM than the compressor can produce, the pressure will continue to drop even though the compressor is running. In that situation you will have to stop working while the compressor recharges. I would hope you shouldnt run into that using a quality impact wrench (~5 CFM), but this will probably rear its head if you ever try grinding or sanding (> 10 CFM). - Greg - Thanks for that info ^, it's my first compressor so i'm just learning all the simple stuff, lol. I think i got it down, i'll let it buildup to 135psi and see if it automatically cuts off, and than see if it kicks back on to maintain 90psi for the tool.... All the tools i got are around 5-6 cfm which is perfect for my compressor. I'm going back to get a nice electric 4-1/2" ginder today and get some cut-off disc for that because as much as i love this compressor, i think it's better to get a nice electric grinder since i have a smaller compressor. I can't wait to test my paint gun out to, no more rattle cans! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Before you begin piping the tank up to a "system" in the shop, think about adding another tank to add more capacity. Try to add at least 10 Gallons more, but try to double what you have. You could even use one of those $29. "portable" tanks from Home Despot. I have found it makes a diffence in the capacity of air available when painting or using tools over a duration of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted November 14, 2006 Author Share Posted November 14, 2006 Before you begin piping the tank up to a "system" in the shop, think about adding another tank to add more capacity. Try to add at least 10 Gallons more, but try to double what you have. You could even use one of those $29. "portable" tanks from Home Despot. I have found it makes a diffence in the capacity of air available when painting or using tools over a duration of time. sounds like a good idea, i'm going there tomorrow to spend the rest of that gift card so i'll look around for that. Do you guys use a in-line lubricator for the tools or just a air filter and moisture collector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Just a filter/moisture removal unit. You do not ever want to have any oil in the air hose if you want to paint. I just use the eye dropper for oiling air tools. When you do paint, get some in line dessicant units, less than $10.00 each, they will last for a limited time. Install just before the spray gun, it will change color when exhuasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted November 18, 2006 Author Share Posted November 18, 2006 Just a filter/moisture removal unit. You do not ever want to have any oil in the air hose if you want to paint. I just use the eye dropper for oiling air tools. When you do paint, get some in line dessicant units, less than $10.00 each, they will last for a limited time. Install just before the spray gun, it will change color when exhuasted. yea, I wasn't sure about the oil, but the manual for the tools says thats the best way. I guess if you have two hoses, one for paint and the other for tools that would be ok. I'm gonna get some of that rustoleum paint and mineral spirits to test my gun with. I'm just gonna use one air/moisture filter because i'm not gonna paint anything special to test it the first time. I just want to get comfortable with the gun and get it dialed in with the best pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 The on-off set points on most compressors are not adjustable. That is incorrect, in almost every compressor made, the cut in and cut out is adjustable. Most cheaper units will have a non-adjustable differential, but the point where it shuts off is almost always adjustable (and with adjustment of that on a cheapo fixed differential unit, the cut-in point will also be altered.) There are several types of AUTOMATIC drains you can install on the bottom of your tank so the buildup in the thing will not be that great. Some of the best are those that operate on air pressure differential. Basically when the tank pressure drops 10psi, the thing will mechanically blow the bottom of the tank---basically every time the compressor cycles, just before it turn back on, it will blow down accumulated moisture. The electric types are popular, but I don't like them because of the varying conditions related to condensate production. The BEST thing you can do for your compressed air system is find another 30 gallon compressor at some garage sale---one that is broken and cheap. Use that tank, linked to your base unit via a 3/8 or 1/2" braided or other air hose and connections, as a supplementary receiver. Install all your filtration and knockout devices on the basic tank, before it enters the supplementary tank. On the secondary tank install a REGULATOR and quick disconnect to your use lines. If you want to use a Deliquescent Dryer (the ones that use tablets) install it on the outlet of THAT secondary tank, it's efficiency will be MUCH greater. Depending on your capacity, the more storage you have at high pressure, the less your compressor will cycle if you are regulated down to 90 psi for usage. The key is to regulate down to use pressure at the device or at the line to the device you are using instead of running compressor pressure all the way through the tool. The second tank will allow more "residence time" so the compressed air can cool, and condense all the water vapor out of it. For every 10 degree drop in temperature you have, you halve the moisture content of the air! Most industry setups use a "Wet" and "Dry" receiver setup, letting air cool in one receiver, before running it thorough a dryer into another receiver for distribution to point of use. This gives the advantage of removing "spikes" in dewpoint of distributed air, and makes sure the dryer is not slugged with hot, wet air directly off the compressor. If you want some Compressed air tips, PM me, and I'll talk your ear off. It's what I do for a living, Field Service Engineer, Ingersoll-Rand...LOL There are a lot of cheap little things you can do at home to make a really nice air system that doesn't spew particulates and water all over your work. Probably the best is to add receiver capacity, and there are always broken compressors out there ready to be cannibalized for tanks. I run a 7hp 80 Gallon Compressor Behind my shed, then have a 100' 3/8" line that I can run up to the street, and connect to another 30 gallon old compressor tank with all the filters, regulators, and a set of wheels. I connect my 50' Air Tool Lines to that, and it easily runs everything, and the air is really nice and cool...I rarely get any moisture out of the secondary tank. I also have isolation valves on the wheeled tank, and can shut it all down with pressure on it. My wife tells me she can shoot 600 1/2" Crown staples before wheeling it back up front to refill it and complete the chicken coop! LOL That second tank is great for inflating tires, so much bigger than the "small" tanks you always seem to find. I digress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted December 8, 2006 Author Share Posted December 8, 2006 WoW! lol That answered almost everything I can think of. I do have 1 question though, if I added a 30 gal tank to my system, would the motor and pump I have be sufficient to supply enough air for the bigger capacity? I'm gonna have to read over your post a couple more times to fully understand the system, because it sounds like somthing I want to do so my compressor doesn't run constantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zV8 Posted December 8, 2006 Author Share Posted December 8, 2006 set it up like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 Great info Tony. Thanks. I've had several ideas like that but, it's nice to know that it would actually work and be of use before investing any time and money into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 I bought a regulator with water seperator from Lowes for my compressor. It has several outlets on it for hoses. I was planning on buying a couple and using one with an inline oiler for tools and one dry for paint. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 Just a note on the above diagram, which I had PM'd him before realizing this was posted. Keep the PRESSURE SWITCH on the same tank as the compressor. You do not want hose/piping loss coming into the equation with this small of a unit (or any unit for that matter!) Also, valve your tanks. Put a valve on the outlet of the main tank, and on the inlet of any downstream tank. Use a Female Quick-Coupler on all Discharge Openings, and a Male Quick Coupler on all Inlets. This includes your Regulator Assembly. This will allow you to run your aux tank as far away from the compressor as you have hoses. Putting the aux tank where you are working, and putting the damnable loud compressor as far away as possible is nice... The valves allow you to close them during break times so the only air you might leak out is contained in the hoses. It also allows you to store the air for future useage---that aux tank will work 1000% better than the store-bought 'spare air' tanks you get for filling tires. With 30 gallons of 125psi air, you can actually fill more than one tank at a time. And filling the tank is as easy as hooking up your air hose---no need to hold the chuck on the tank forever as it dribbles air into the thing to charge it! Technically, you should have a pressure relief valve on any vessel...than includes the aux tank. If you leave it in the hot SoCal Sun you would be suprised how much pressure you can build in a tank starting with 125 filled on a 40 degree night..... Anyway, having the quick couplers on everything helps configure the system in many different ways, you can put yor dryer wherever you want or remove it completely if you don't need dry air---and having valves on it keeps ambient humidity from contaminating the desiccant inside while you're not using it. Adding valves and QD's adds versatility. And in a home compressor you will need it for everything, so versatility is a big plus. Harbor Freight sells Air hoses cheap---like $9 a piece. Same for QD's. The QD's will keep you from having to screw and unscrew things every time you make a change. Also, off that aux tank, consider turning it into what my old German Friend used to call a "Luftzow"---"AirPig". I think he called it that because the ones I had him make looked like little pigs, but basically it's a multiple adapter---like a cross or string of "T" fittings that you have many Female QD's on. This allows you to run several air tools on several hoses without swapping. Some of us a re impatient, and just like to pick it up and go with the flow. Having a multiple adapter on the outlet connection of the Aux Tank will make hooking up several lines nice and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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