OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I just ran across this writeup. Steel is easy to weld so this might be a viable option for building a header. Sure it would heavy but it would be easy to build... http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm It would be cheap to build as well. What do y'all think about this type of header? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 that give so food for thought. would not mind looking in to that. would be a heavy mo fo though. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjc5500 Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I guess if ur good with a welder, it woud be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 I am well versed in welding...Diploma in Welding and Joining tecnology... MIG any position, Stick any position, TIG on steel and aluminum. I have done a little stainless but am not 100% comfortable with my ability on thinner stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 They are heavy but work well and are fairly easy to build. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 Sounds like one of my first projects when I get my TIG this summer. Maybe I'll make a couple of them while I am at it and build a jig if anyone woud be interested for a cheap tubular manifold... Thanks Cary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 http://www.turbocelica.com/TheShuttle/Exhaust/TurboHeader.htm similar idea. The turbocelica guy told me his header gets red hot under max boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 sweet! the wastegate placement looks excellent as well! Thanks for posting that! The high nickel rod makes me think the welds have good corrosion resistance. Better than standard copper coated rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 You guys spot the L valve cover in the picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 yeah... bottom left up close on the second photo...cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy36 Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 take a look at the header in my user gallery, this was made with the sch40 weld els Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 Awesome!! did you fabricate it or have a shop do it? Great design! can you give some info on the turbo spooly actuated thing (that lowers lag) right at the inlet of the turbine? Also how much does your header weigh aprox.? Edit* just found your GT40 fitment thread where you said you made it. Very cool!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy36 Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Hey man, you found my own pictures quicker than I did. I was planning on adding them to my post, but you beat me to the punch. I built this one using stainless weld els, 1/2" flanges and tig'd it together. I've since ceramic coated it black. I haven't had much of a chance to test out the twin scroll, or have much for a comparison with snowy roads. I did get a chance to stick it on the dyno and put out 375 before the clutch let loose. With the twin scroll actuator being fully opened before the wastegate starts to open, I start building boost at 2200rpm to 4psi at 2600rpm... then it holds there till about 3600rpm then builds to 20psi at 4000rpm. I am running at gt4082 If anyone else has this turbo, chime in and say what rpm you get your boost by. When I get a new clutch put in that will hold the power, I'll post some more results (#$% spec clutches) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 I have FAST DSL...lol That sounds awesome as far as when you start building boost! 375 is a heck of a lot of power for an untuned system!!! I am looking at different turbos that will give me a LOT of power so that looks like a good option... I am going to set up a nice head and all the turbo stuff (megasquirt, big injectors, P90...) on my L26 bottom end while I build a strong shortblock. I don't want to crank up an expensive motor and something be wrong and mess up a grand of pistons...I'll just go till it is tuned or I melt my flattops... Then comes an extra .4 liters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 you know I was talkn to Bobby about this a few days ago.. Can someone successfully build a nice turbo header using purely a MiG? I was not sure if a TIG is necessary, for more precise heat control, to prevent from warping?! If so.. boy oh boy I will be welding up a new turbo header very shortly! I have a spare engine I can mock it up to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 Prox, Yes you COULD do it I guess..but TIG is soo much better. Just get some anti-corrosion high nickel wire like the second link talks about. With this thicker metal it would be easy to MIG it without blowing through. TIG WILL have good penetration on the tubes. If you use mig get some extra pieces and practice welding them together to get full penetration of the base metal. If you don't the inside will have gaps inbetween the joint configuration which will do weird things with airflow. You don't want more than 1/32"-1/16" of penetration though. If you do it will cause restriction in the exhaust. Edit* I guess you would want to practice anyway no matter which process you use. You could Stick weld this and it would be WAY stronger than MIG or TIG...Less heat input than TIG (less H.A.Z.) and better penetration than MIG...It's just messy as all getout though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Funny this topic just came up. I've just started trying to make a turbo header for my SR20vet. 1 1/4" 316/316L sch 40 tubing. Working on the collector today. i'll get some pics when i actually get something done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 sweet lunar!!! Get those pics up!!! maybe it will look like... THIS... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 yeah. hopefully. i finally decided on what style to make. [pic is of a header made by full-race] the only difference is that my wastegate will be pointing up, to make it flow easier. this will make it pretty wide, so that's what prompted me to do the dual master cylinder mod. i got the pieces marked for the collector, now i figure out how to cut them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 On schedule 40 stainless you're going to stuggle getting full penetration in one pass. It can be done, but its easier just to do 2 passes. I prefer using schedule 10 316L stainless for turbo manifolds. It has nice corrosion resistance, and can be welded in a single pass. Make sure to backpurge when doing stainless. Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.