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building a turbo header w/ sched 40 weld pipe


OlderThanMe

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Hey man, you found my own pictures quicker than I did. I was planning on adding them to my post, but you beat me to the punch.

 

I built this one using stainless weld els, 1/2" flanges and tig'd it together. I've since ceramic coated it black. I haven't had much of a chance to test out the twin scroll, or have much for a comparison with snowy roads. I did get a chance to stick it on the dyno and put out 375 before the clutch let loose.

 

With the twin scroll actuator being fully opened before the wastegate starts to open, I start building boost at 2200rpm to 4psi at 2600rpm... then it holds there till about 3600rpm then builds to 20psi at 4000rpm.

 

I am running at gt4082 If anyone else has this turbo, chime in and say what rpm you get your boost by. When I get a new clutch put in that will hold the power, I'll post some more results (#$% spec clutches)

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I have FAST DSL...lol

That sounds awesome as far as when you start building boost!

375 is a heck of a lot of power for an untuned system!!!

I am looking at different turbos that will give me a LOT of power so that looks like a good option...

 

I am going to set up a nice head and all the turbo stuff (megasquirt, big injectors, P90...) on my L26 bottom end while I build a strong shortblock. I don't want to crank up an expensive motor and something be wrong and mess up a grand of pistons...I'll just go till it is tuned or I melt my flattops...

Then comes an extra .4 liters :-)

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you know I was talkn to Bobby about this a few days ago..

 

Can someone successfully build a nice turbo header using purely a MiG?

 

I was not sure if a TIG is necessary, for more precise heat control, to prevent from warping?!

 

 

If so.. boy oh boy I will be welding up a new turbo header very shortly! I have a spare engine I can mock it up to

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Prox, Yes you COULD do it I guess..but TIG is soo much better. Just get some anti-corrosion high nickel wire like the second link talks about.

With this thicker metal it would be easy to MIG it without blowing through.

TIG WILL have good penetration on the tubes. If you use mig get some extra pieces and practice welding them together to get full penetration of the base metal. If you don't the inside will have gaps inbetween the joint configuration which will do weird things with airflow.

You don't want more than 1/32"-1/16" of penetration though. If you do it will cause restriction in the exhaust.

 

Edit* I guess you would want to practice anyway no matter which process you use. You could Stick weld this and it would be WAY stronger than MIG or TIG...Less heat input than TIG (less H.A.Z.) and better penetration than MIG...It's just messy as all getout though...

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yeah. hopefully.

 

i finally decided on what style to make. [pic is of a header made by full-race] the only difference is that my wastegate will be pointing up, to make it flow easier. this will make it pretty wide, so that's what prompted me to do the dual master cylinder mod.

 

i got the pieces marked for the collector, now i figure out how to cut them...:icon45:

 

turbo_manifold_fullsize.jpg

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On schedule 40 stainless you're going to stuggle getting full penetration in one pass. It can be done, but its easier just to do 2 passes. I prefer using schedule 10 316L stainless for turbo manifolds. It has nice corrosion resistance, and can be welded in a single pass. Make sure to backpurge when doing stainless.

 

Regards,

Justin

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