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building a turbo header w/ sched 40 weld pipe


OlderThanMe

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"He found that if the exhaust pipes were connected to the separate sides of the divided exhaust housing so that the exhaust pulses entering each side were evenly spaced, throttle response improved even more. Though this arrangement didn't add power, "turbo lag" was all but gone."

 

jimbo

 

This is pretty much how Burns Stainless explained it to me, They were very specific about engine size, port size, valve size, cam spec, and even firing order. They recommended not only the primary length, but the 6-2-1 arrangement. He said a 6-1 would have too much volume at the collector slowing down the flow defeating the effect. He also mentioned the off boost performance would benefit with this type of arrangement. This is why I spent so long working to get these the correct length and layout. My goal is to make as much power with pump gas as possible, and still have a very streetable car.

Here are some more shots of the Merge collector. BTW the waste gate will come tangent off the bend of the 2-1 part making it like the example of proper placement in the book by Corky Bell.

What are your guys thoughts on wastegate placement and managing boost creep, it always seem to me that the wastegates that come off at 90 degrees to the flow would have a hard time responding quickly.

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a little progress. i still need to order a couple more bends...

 

runners1and2001.jpg

 

 

all the work was done on my scrap sr20 head

runners1and2003.jpg

 

doesn't fit up perfectly in there, so hopefully there's something i can do to make it work.

 

runners1and2004.jpg

 

runners1and2005.jpg

 

runners1and2006.jpg

 

runners1and2007.jpg

 

my original plan was to have a long collector and have the wastegate tube come off at a pretty shallow angle. that would be ideal, but im settling for something like this.

 

runners1and2008.jpg

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almost. i'm using the 1 1/4" 316/316L 45555K514, [they're about 11 bucks each.] because they matched the height of the exhaust port. but a few days after i bought them i found out that most people go with 1 1/2 for better flow.

I really dont have any idea.. but i think it'll be allright.

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Are we talking the difference between Sch40 Mild Steel, and Sch10 Stainless?

The stainless photos look like Sch10, which I have seen used before on headers, and form my understanding is about the same cost as Sch40 mild, but can be welded with less heat, and weighs slightly less.

 

Just clarifying.

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Tony_D:

The mild steel would be easy to weld with standard weling wire...you could get some stainless wire and Tack it with a small MIG machine.

Headers have been made with both kinds...

The stainless NEEDS to be welded with less heat because you can overheat the material.

This is PIPE which is measured by inner diameter.

TUBE is measured by outside diameter.

 

The stainless (like what hanson is using) would be better because of the lighter weight and the fact that it is stainless...

 

How many 90* and 45* els did you buy Hanson?

Also have you thought of cutting up a pipe reducer(s) to make a collector?

45735K414L.GIF

also if you were using regular steel you could use this: and strip out the threads and weld it...

44605K357l.gif

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I didn't buy any 45's i just cut up a 90, although i didn't check, its probably cheaper. I used 12 90's for the header, and i'm going to use maybe 1 more to make the wastegate tube coming off the collector.

 

ive never thought of using a reducer to make a collector, but i have seen the boxed collector like that guy with the castrol WRC celica remake did.

the tube collector i would only reccomend if you got a really good saw,and make some solid jigs, or if you dont mind doing it over a few times.... my saw kept on flexing when i got close to the end where you're cutting the pipe on it's side.. mine doesnt fit up the best , so i'm going to attack the inside with a dremel later.

 

btw its sch40 316/316L Stainless steel pipe. most use 304, because 316 is supposed to be more expensive. but for some reason its cheaper on mcmastercarr, and 316/316L has better corrosion resistance at higher tempatures so it'll stay looking nice longer.

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O.K. then, Sch40 Stainless, that's what I was looking for. It just looked thin for a Sch40. The wall thickness on Sch 40 is 0.145", as opposed to Sch 10 which is 0.109". Sch5 is somewhere around .085" if I recall, maybe 0.095"---been a long time.

 

BTW, Sch 10 is still PIPE, it is measured in exactly the same way as all other PIPE. Same as Sch 5... Which starts getting pretty thin, but it's still an ASTM Pipe Schedule Piece....

 

I think you can get "Tubing" which is actually thicker than Sch 5 stuff. But that is a different discussion, right?

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thanks for the comments. I'm still working on it, and have since welded up all the seams that i can get to without disassembling it. Just hesitant now because to proceed ive got to take the runners off the collector..:frown:

 

i'll post more pics when i finish it 100%

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