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rustoleum...got it right this time


OlderThanMe

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got all my stuuf at walmart except for my 10 dollar Electric HVLPgun from HF,

wasnt brave enuff to roll it :)

Spraying works pretty good just make sure you dontmix to thin, and plenty of ventilation, i sprayed my stripes outside actually. ..

Get a viscosity cup if you want to spray and i think i used a 4 second mix . .

Anywho just my 2 cents!

ron

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got all my stuuf at walmart except for my 10 dollar Electric HVLPgun from HF,

wasnt brave enuff to roll it :)

Spraying works pretty good just make sure you dontmix to thin, and plenty of ventilation, i sprayed my stripes outside actually. ..

Get a viscosity cup if you want to spray and i think i used a 4 second mix . .

Anywho just my 2 cents!

ron

 

how many parts mineral spirits should I use when spraying it? Or just mix until it has a milk consistancy?

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in reverse order:

240zV8: I use about 20 percent mineral spirits. Just before it starts to drip off of a flat blade screwdriver (no paint sticks, they cost extra $!). I was using 10-15% before but now I use aprox. 20%. I'm not really sure but just do it until it "feels right" just like the mopar guy that started the rustoleum stuff said...Really hard to explain

 

2003z/Mike: Thanks! I'll have to find time to come over and pick it up! I'm working tomorrow and it is too cold to buff right now...I tried to wetsand this morning but wetsanding with 40* water in a spray bottle is not fun...

 

PapaCreech/ron :yeah. I do most of my painting with the garage door cracked open. I have no clue about the air tools though...too poor. :-D

 

240zV8: I get my rustoleum at Lowes. I ALMOST got hunter green. It is really close to british racing green from what I can tell.

 

Nismo280zEd: interesting idea...but the rustoleum is proven now and I am going to stick with it.

 

roninjiro: as soon as it gets above the teens at night I will get back to painting. Here the temperature was the coldest it has been in something like 3 years. Down in the mid teens. I think Big-Phil and I both used the stops-rust "professional"

 

Chewievette: haha...I think 1,200 is enough...LOL 12,000 is more than they use for polishing windshields. It is already smooth as glass with the 600 but I have to do it light and that takes forever. The 1,200 will be really nice!

 

Big-Phil: our cars are going to look awesome!!! it wil be fun to go to car shows and say "I painted the car with mailbox paint" :-D:burnout:

 

240zV8: you got a spray gun..I can't believe it! I think the rollering would be nearly as fast as the spraying...:-)

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240zv8: i checked my notes i made and it was close to half and half, for spraying but just lik eOTM says mix to flavor!

if i was going to try the roller method i would get a 6 pack of beverage (what ever it may be)

consume said pack,

then cut each can in half and lable them for different ratio of mixes and figure out which one lyou like!

Ron

BTW: OTM that looks great havnt waxed mine yet polish or nothin But you results, can only invoke the imagination!

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update on the original...... YOU CAN GET SHOW QUALITY OUT OF THIS METHOD!!!! http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=47&vc=1

see!!!! I told you so!!!

 

It's still too darn cold to paint...It is supposed to get to like 55 degrees tomorrow!!! I get back to work at 50 degrees!!!

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i just got me a gallon of professional, but when i used the "stops rust" at work for customers items (previously welder), we used japan drier (made it dry in like a 1/4 of time it would normally take to dry. my question is, have any of you used that with the professional grade? its only $5 at home depot. i ask this because it is great for cold weather painting, and well, ITS COLD! but i wanna paint! also home depot only had hunter green, gloss black, white, red, and yellow; but i need blue for another car im painting.

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At my lowes they had flat black, satin black, gloss black, hunter green, safety yellow, safety red, regal red, royal blue, anodise bronse, grey, , gloss white, and something else. I would not use the "japan dry" as the paint needs time to flatten out. I used too much mineral spirits and it dried really quick but was really thin and chipped easily.

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Nismo: yeah...looks like that person stopped at the 600 grit paper...not as flat as mine..:-)

I used a flourscent lamp once and it helped a little. You don't want it to dry too fast or else you will spend more time sanding which is 9 bazillion times harder than rolling the paint on. I'll be working on painting my car some tomorrow. I'll probably go down to napa and get some good wetsanding paper since they are the only ones that carry good sand paper around me.

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This method is much like that used for repainting boats. I've had good success with brushing on rustoleum and other good quality enamels. You can use good soft bristle brushes and play with the mineral spirits mix and lay it on smooth. Brush or roller method lays down a heavy build so there is plenty of thickness to sand and buff. Spraying always leaves you thinner so you have to be much more careful and you dont have the depth to sand out trash. Many high dollar cars , like the Rolls Royce were brush painted and hand sanded/polished back in the early days, but they used a lacquer based paint. I came across the idea when I was a teen and painted farm equipment one summer. the old farmer could make a tractor shine like glass...

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Oh BTW, an electric dual action sander ( the round disc oscillating type ) can be bought for 20-30 bucks at Wallyworld. You can do your first cut sand with it using 320-500 ( you can buy paper at the paint store all the way to 1000 grit) just to knock down the orange peel. It cuts the process in half and the sander is great for doing body work as well. I bought one to use here at home because my neighborhood of snobs made me move my compressor back to my Dads ( 100miles away) because of the noise. Damn homeowners association. I cant wait to sell this place and move to the country again!!

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